1fzfe starts fun when cold then dies at operating temp, then cranks with no start until cold again.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

F

feralyouth

Joined
Jul 23, 2023
Threads
22
Messages
75
Location
Vacaville ca
Ok so I’ve been working on this for about two months. Finally got it to reproduce the issue, but before that I just started throwing parts at it because I couldn’t reproduce it while at home.
Had codes for crank shaft position circuit malfunction and cam shaft circuit malfunction. Both have not returned. As for that nothing else.

The symptoms started as a hard start or cranking with no start, after driving and parking. It got worse to the point of cranking and not starting when at operating temp, and I’d have to wait a few hour for it to cool down. Never had an issue when starting cold. From there it got to the point of stalling while driving or letting it warm up, then again cranking with no start. I tried started fluid and it would start for a second then die. Tried a new ignitor, it started then died, switch To the old then I it didn’t start. After waiting I started ran till operating temp then died.

I have found that when the issue is occurring I am getting no spark to the dizzy. I did checks on my ignition coil and ignitor and everything seems fine. It also seems as if I’m getting no rpm reading when cranking.

Things I’ve done…
New fuel pump
New ECT
New fuel relay
New fusible link
New efi
New crankshaft sensor.
Cleaned many grounds.
Also readdressed the wire harness on the egr pipe.

When it runs it sounds better than it ever has but still dies
 
Last edited:
landtank said:
2 things

When it won’t start plug the hose to the brake booster and try to start.

Replace the 20amp relays in the drivers foot well. Main relay and open relay.
Click to expand...
Interesting I’ll give it a try. What will plugging it prove? By main relay do you mean the efi?
 
Last edited:
feralyouth said:
Interesting I’ll give it a try. What will plugging it prove?
Click to expand...

landtank said:
2 things

When it won’t start plug the hose to the brake booster and try to start.

Replace the 20amp relays in the drivers foot well. Main relay and open relay.
Click to expand...
Ok so I replaced the main relay and open relay I. The foot well. Ran it and it died. Clamped the break booster hose and no start.
 
landtank said:
I had a no start and it was a vacuum leak in the booster.

Another thing to look at is you alternator and connections.

There is a sensing line that wants to see voltage while cranking before it will start. So all connections, bad alternator, belts.
Click to expand...
Yeah I have poured through this thing. I’ve cleaned just about every connection and ground. I swapped out my MAF and no change. Belts are new to as I did a plump and front seal two weeks ago.
This one is hard.
 
feralyouth said:
I did checks on my ignition coil and ignitor and everything seems fine. It also seems as if I’m getting no rpm reading when cranking.
Click to expand...
Couple of thoughts and some low hanging fruit:
There are no igniter diagnostics in the FSM other than checking for +12.
Have you replaced the igniter as recommended by the FSM in the troubleshooting section?
The igniter is grounded through the mounting bracket. Make sure it it secure.

Have you verified that the ECU connections are properly seated?
Have you verified that the ECU harness is not chafed on the lower glovebox support?
Have you verified continuity between the distributor pickup coils and the ECU?
Have you verified continuity between the igniter and ECU? Connector IH2.
Have you verified continuity between the igniter and ignition coil? Connector EA2

Please refer to the ENGINE CONTROL section of the EWD:

1770469563052.webp
 
jonheld said:
Couple of thoughts and some low hanging fruit:
There are no igniter diagnostics in the FSM other than checking for +12.
Have you replaced the igniter as recommended by the FSM in the troubleshooting section?
The igniter is grounded through the mounting bracket. Make sure it it secure.

Have you verified that the ECU connections are properly seated?
Have you verified that the ECU harness is not chafed on the lower glovebox support?
Have you verified continuity between the distributor pickup coils and the ECU?
Have you verified continuity between the igniter and ECU? Connector IH2.
Have you verified continuity between the igniter and ignition coil? Connector EA2

Please refer to the ENGINE CONTROL section of the EWD:

View attachment 4081903
Click to expand...
I have replaced the ignitor. Checked the ecu and harness in glove box. I also followed the fsm checking all components mentioned.
 
feralyouth said:
I have replaced the ignitor. Checked the ecu and harness in glove box. I also followed the fsm checking all components mentioned.
Click to expand...
Do you have any stored error codes that could point you in a direction?

Statically checking individual components will not reveal the issue.
You're dealing with a temperature related intermittent which screams "connector" or "wiring fault" to me.
Have you inspected/reseated the above mentioned connectors?
 
jonheld said:
Do you have any stored error codes that could point you in a direction?

Statically checking individual components will not reveal the issue.
You're dealing with a temperature related intermittent which screams "connector" or "wiring fault" to me.
Have you inspected/reseated the above mentioned connectors?
Click to expand...
I have inspected all trouble areas of wires. I have cleaned and and plugged all connectors. Only codes that have popped initially were crank shaft circuit a malfunction p0335 and cam shaft position circuit malfunction p0340. Both cleared and never returned. The p0335 code actually popped while it was running and I saw smoke coming from exhaust, I shut it off, cleared code, restarted and it never returned. Plus I replaced the cam shaft sensor shortly after.

Today I decided to try another igniter, this time it shut down and had a misfire code p0300… I’m thinking of replacing my rotor, cap, plugs and wires, but I doubt that’s the issue since I’m not getting spark from my main wire to the dizzy when issue is occurring.

I feel as if these codes are only popping as a result of an unexpected lose of power and engine shutting off.
 
feralyouth said:
I have inspected all trouble areas of wires. I have cleaned and and plugged all connectors. Only codes that have popped initially were crank shaft circuit a malfunction p0335 and cam shaft position circuit malfunction p0340. Both cleared and never returned. The p0335 code actually popped while it was running and I saw smoke coming from exhaust, I shut it off, cleared code, restarted and it never returned. Plus I replaced the cam shaft sensor shortly after.

Today I decided to try another igniter, this time it shut down and had a misfire code p0300… I’m thinking of replacing my rotor, cap, plugs and wires, but I doubt that’s the issue since I’m not getting spark from my main wire to the dizzy when issue is occurring.

I feel as if these codes are only popping as a result of an unexpected lose of power and engine shutting off.
Click to expand...
Have you verified distributor pick up coil resistance readings both at the distributor and back to the ECU?
Have you made a comparison between the above both when cold and hot?
 
feralyouth said:
I have inspected all trouble areas of wires. I have cleaned and and plugged all connectors. Only codes that have popped initially were crank shaft circuit a malfunction p0335 and cam shaft position circuit malfunction p0340. Both cleared and never returned.

Today I decided to try another igniter, this time it shut down and had a misfire code p0300… I’m thinking of replacing my rotor, cap, plugs and wires, but I doubt that’s the issue since I’m not getting spark from my main wire to the dizzy when issue is occurring.
Click to expand...

jonheld said:
Have you verified distributor pick up coil resistance readings both at the distributor and back to the ECU?
Have you made a comparison between the above both when cold and hot?
Click to expand...
don’t judge me but I thought I did, I’ve been trying to work on it for the past week while being sick and having sick kids. So today I decided to just go over everything again while it was hot.

Dizzy resistance is fine while cold. When hot and after dying I am not getting a resistance reading on g- and NE.
Decided to hit it with QD cleaner to reduce temp and boom I get a resistance but vehicle still won’t start. Honestly I have no idea how do the ecu check… I believe ecu is behind the glove box but what connection is it?

While the key is on should I be getting a 12v reading from my connector harness side? Because I am not.
 
I am not judging you and I'm not trying to give you a hard time, but the ignition system troubleshooting steps in the FSM are very clear.
If you have an intermittent connection to one of the pick up coils in the distributor, this engine will not run. Full stop. Those coils develop spark and supply the ECU with timing info.

If you would refer to the ENGINE CONTROL section of the EWD (post #12), you'll see that the distributor doesn't get +12.
I had also asked you to inspect/reseat the connections on the ECU (again post #12) which you said that you did, and now you're asking where the ECU is located.

Again, not trying to break your balls, but it is extremely difficult to help someone remotely if you're providing bad information.

1770640627455.webp
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom