1fz rebuild

[JacobsBarn80]

Hey all

I'm in the process of rebuilding my 1fz, follow along for the process and feel free to send through some tips! Unfortunately I did t take many photos of getting the engine out as I've been in a rush as its my daily. That being said this will start from the engine out and stripped stage. If you have any questions about getting it out please let me know, I removed the engine without removing the transmission.

The damage:

This all started when I saw the coolant resoviour bubbling which indicated a blow head gasket, it also didnt like to start when it had been run then turned off.

After removing the head I found the following corrosion from the previous owner running water

This was worse on another coolant passages where it had eaten into where the firing ring sits.

The block also had some pitting and raised metal on cylinder.

I had a chat to the machine shop and im waiting to get the block back.

 

[JacobsBarn80]

What needs to be done:

The block is getting bored, honed, washed and decked. Im getting new bearing and pistions, ive got a new oem timing chain i put in 10000kms ago so that will be reused. Its getting all new seals as well.

The head is also cooked. So ill need to get a new head, going with a etp head which is chineese made but is an Australian company which has good reviews. Its getting durapro head bolts and a endurotec vrs kit.

New mace racing valves will go in too, and valve clearences to be done.

Let me know your thoughts and ill keep you updated!!!

 

[robnicko]

take your time, dont rush and post up pics as you go if you can

 

[JacobsBarn80]

Did some cleaning today!

 

[JacobsBarn80]

I also bought all the new parts:

- etp engine parts bare head
- coolant outlet pipes for head
- mace racing valves
- oem seals: timing chain cover seals, rear main, front crank, oil cover, pickup, oil cooler etc
- hex nuts for oil pump cover
- after market exhaust studs

Trying to use oem where it is hard to replace the seals or if it would cause a big issue if they failed. Other than that I dont mind using after market parts for things where the engine doesnt nees to come out.

For those wondering it cost $1500 for it all delivered.

 

[JacobsBarn80]

When i test the new valves to make sure they seat correct i will be putting marker on them with some lapping compund and making sure there is a good seal.

Guessing valve stems seals will need to be in for this?

 

[JacobsBarn80]

Did some cleaning today!
View attachment 4018395

Also some of the old sealant for the zinc played thing seems to be failling out whats people's recommendation for this??

 

[White Stripe]

I would go with a stroker crank. For valves, the machine shop should take care of seating them for you. I would have the head ported.

 

[jstew0903]

I would go with a stroker crank. For valves, the machine shop should take care of seating them for you. I would have the head ported.

Who makes a stroker crank?

 

[jstew0903]

Great thread. Are you only doing a top end rebuild?

 

[Fj80oregon]

Also some of the old sealant for the zinc played thing seems to be failling out whats people's recommendation for this??View attachment 4018396

Just clean any of it off that’s loose and don’t think about it again. It’s old old form in place gasket when they seal the baffle to the valve cover.

 

[JacobsBarn80]

Great thread. Are you only doing a top end rebuild?

Na going to need to do bottom half to so oversized pistons etc

 

[JacobsBarn80]

Anyone know the torque spec for the flywheel bolts and if they are torque to spec or yield? My FSM has the automatic not the manual... found mixed info online too

 

[White Stripe]

Who makes a stroker crank?

Thread '1FZFE 5.2L Turbo Build'

Jul 28, 2022

This is what happens when you allow scope creep on an engine oil leak in your 80...

Finally nearing completion on the subject build after a really looooong wait. Turns out there's a good reason we don't see many of these outside Dubai's sand drags; a lot of experimentation and custom machining work has been required (difficulty rating = $$$/$$$). Ended up with 108mm stroke on billet crank, 101mm bore, fresh H-beam rods, modified 8.53:1 race pistons, and Supra head studs. Will run a 61lb/min turbo via custom piping and intercooler. Intentionally detuning to avoid over-stressing internals...

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[JacobsBarn80]

Got the new head and valves in. Havent lapped valves before these need more?

 

[JacobsBarn80]

Update!

Running with the valves happy with how they are.

Valve clearences have been checked, all are good or at the limits. Only out out is an intake which is 0.127 which is a but out let me know what tou think. Im not to worried about it

 

[JacobsBarn80]

Another update, got the piston rings gapped and pistons installed.

Main bearings were good at 0.05mm

Thrust was good at 0.08mm

My crank was cleaned and lashed by the machine shop but is seems like there is an issue with my con rod caps. After new bearings were installed the plastiguage is not uniform with one side being 0.025 and the other being 0.064.

Let me know what you think i might call the machine shop.