1997 LX450 Maintenance/Build thread

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snowglobe

snowglobe

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Morrison, CO
Maintenance & build thread for my pink-panty 80 series.
This main post will be heavily edited.

Recent maintenance:
June 2019: oil change with Mobil 1 10w30 and OEM filter
July 2, 2019: engine air intake filter

Planned near term:
spark plugs
transmission and gear oil

Some day:
I have a Wit's End Turbo kit on order. I'm one of the original nuts who committed to buying it when the kit was first under consideration.
I have a Transgo shift kit waiting for install.
 
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The oil change in June didn't go easily.
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I tried using a Ford oil filter adapter, which I bought 3.5 years ago and just got around to installing, but the O ring got pinched during install. Oil spewed out immediately upon starting the vehicle. No apparent engine damage as I shut down within a few seconds, but it sprayed a gallon at startup. I didn't realize the O ring was pinched, I thought I just hadn't tightened it enough, so I tightened it, refilled, and it sprayed again. I'm still cleaning up oil from the garage floor. Refilled a third time but without the adapter.

2019252


I recently bought a new O ring for the adapter, will try again.


Ford adapter: Ford Racing M6880-A50 Oil Filter Adapter Kit
alternative source: Ford Racing M6880-A50 Oil Filter Adapter Kit

New main O ring: Fel-Pro Oil FIlter Adapter Gasket 72494
alternative source: Fel-Pro Oil Filter Adapter Gaskets 72494
 
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ppc said:
Get rid of the WIX filter ASAP. There are several instances where they are the suspected cause of engine damage. Search for more info.
Click to expand...


No, he installed an AIR filter, not the oil filter......
 
snowglobe said:
And replace with what? Denso 143-2098? MAHLE LX 1140?
Click to expand...

No, reading comprehension.

He thought you said OIL filter.



But, FYI the OEM Toyota air filter is washable......
 
I was hesitant to get a non OEM air filter but the Denso 143-2098 (OEM?) didnt seem well rated.

For oil, I'm sticking with OEM filters, the small 90915-YZZD3 ones for now, changing with each oil change.
For the next year I'll have an aggressive oil change schedule, every month or three, doing other incremental maintenance with each one (transmission pan drain and refill, etc).
 
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Changed oil tonight using Delo 400 15w-40 CK-4/SN and a 90915-YZZD3. I prefilled the filter; although some drains out when installing, at least the filter is pre-soaked.
Also installed a Fumoto F-103 oil drain valve and put the old drain plug in the glove compartment with some spare gaskets.
The ~7 week old, ~1000 mile Mobil 1 10w-30 was dark amber/brown.
I collect oil using a Flotool 15 quart oil drain pan, dump that into a 5 gallon plastic hedpack, then eventually transfer to emptied oil containers for disposal. I installed a faucet in the hedpack for convenient draining into the smaller containers but I still managed to spill a bit.
 
BILT4ME said:
No, reading comprehension.

He thought you said OIL filter.



But, FYI the OEM Toyota air filter is washable......
Click to expand...

SOME of the OEM air filters are washable, but not all. There are two versions. I have used both. The washable unit has the directions tattooed on the end.
 
I just ordered a pile of parts including an OEM washable air filter.

Today the front driver’s side door‘s door check broke. I’m experiencing minor sticker shock for the replacement, ~$60.

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Getting cold, I changed oil to 5w30. I installed a new Toyota 90915-YZZD3 filter and 7 quarts of Chevron Supreme 5w30 dino oil. The Fumoto F-103 oil drain made it easy. The two month old Delo 400 was dark but still translucent.
 
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I was sure I’d done some more oil changes since last October but I’ve also barely ever driven the vehicle since February of this year. Maybe four times and less than 200 miles since Feb, working from home. I replaced oil this week with more 5w30 Dino oil and replaced the filter. I will do more cycles of that, as I have it in stock. The Fumoto F-103 made the oil drain procedure much easier/cleaner.

I also bought new tires in the last month, replacing the nearly ten year old 315/75/16 duratracs with new ones. Two of them were actually replaced under warranty during that ten years so they have significant tread left. The other two were getting pretty low on tread but still usable. I kept all four but may let the older two go.

Related to this is something I never got around to inquiring/ reporting about: I had drivetrain vibration / resonance at around 14 mph. It was very annoying. It went away when I replaced the tires. I hadn’t had the wheels balanced in a while so I guess that was the source of vibration.
 
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snowglobe said:
Related to this is something I never got around to inquiring/ reporting about: I had drivetrain vibration / resonance at around 14 mph. It was very annoying. It went away when I replaced the tires. I hadn’t had the wheels balanced in a while so I guess that was the source of vibration.
Click to expand...

Vibration at 14 mph isn't going to be caused by unbalanced tires. Your vibration/resonance was most likely caused by the mismatched tire sizes. Could have been drive line windup, a failing viscous coupler. Kind of depends on which positions the worn tires were placed. Mixed sized tires are a no-no on our fulltime vehicles.
 
ppc said:
Vibration at 14 mph isn't going to be caused by unbalanced tires. Your vibration/resonance was most likely caused by the mismatched tire sizes. Could have been drive line windup, a failing viscous coupler. Kind of depends on which positions the worn tires were placed. Mixed sized tires are a no-no on our fulltime vehicles.
Click to expand...
I can measure the tread depths but the less-worn tires were both in the rear. If that little size mismatch was a problem people should be paranoid about their spares.

Edit: I didn’t use a dedicated thread depth ruler, I used something more awkward ... but the older tires both have around 4/16 inch tread remaining, the newer old ones have 7/16 inch, and the new tires have 9/16 inch. I didn’t necessarily measure correctly but that’s what I observed.
 
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One nagging issue I’d like to address is the driver side back door’s electronic lock doesn’t always actuate correctly when I lock or unlock the whole vehicle. The manual lock for that door always works.
I’m hoping it’s not a wiring harness issue.
Any suggestions on how to debug this?


I recently bought a printed copy of the FSM.
 
Ok, I haven’t been keeping this thread up to date.
I have some issues to address that I’ll document here. I threw an EGR code P0401 yesterday, for example.


I have the wits end turbo kit and wanted to do something for venting which would be useful in winter for defrosting the windshield. I once drove through a huge snow storm which completely packed the wipers / top of hood with snow, I had to get out several times to feee the wipers. I once saw a parked Canadian 80 which had large scoop which faced the windshield.
 
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