1997 LX 450 radio install help!

[midfat]

Interesting. Not really up to speed with latest tech gadgetry and what CarPlay is all about, but I intend to keep using my dash mounted iPad with my Kenwood unit.

CarPlay simply allows Apple iOS (iPhone) to take over the head-unit display. Once you plug in your iPhone, the head unit becomes the primary display and interface (limited to select "CarPlay approved" apps). The goal is that Siri and voice command take away the distraction of handling your phone. Unfortunately, if you want to run things like Hema or Garmin maps, you'd still need the iPad.

 

[canman]

You are awesome- Thanks!

Here's what they gave me, but I'm keeping the factory amp. If it sounds like sh$t, I'll bypass the amp. Can't wait to get the Kenwood installed, but waiting on the front mount camera.

 

[stevenmichael]

Wolfer,
I just completed installing AVIC-D1 in my 97 LX 450. You can just connect the oem speakers to the front and rear speakers output from the NAV unit bypassing the oem amp. This option should give you a decent sound. There is also a RCA output for the sub if you choose to connect an external sub.

If you still want to use the oem amp then you will need a "Toyota amp integration harness, #70-8112" from Metra. I bought mine from Fry's but you can search for this on the internet. This is the way I connected my NAV unit because I have DD system set up in my truck and needed an extra amp. The set-up works great, however there is a faint turn-off pop from the speakers when the truck is turned off....just FYI. I am still working on a solution for this.

I love the AVIC-D1 unit and will soon post a write-up here.

Good luck.
Pradeep

i just installed a kenwood ddx9903s and I also have a pop at shut down . Its running through the factory amp right now and there is a humming sound .I was told by a installer to use a
PAC SNI-1 Ground Loop Signal Isolator to get rid of the humming sound so I'm going to try that .
I was thinking the factory amp was causing the pop at shut down, but if your bypassing it and there still is a pop then it has to be something else causing the pop. We have different radios installed and its doing the same thing on both mine and yours so its not the radios . I am also using the 70-8112 harness . I'm going to go in and disconnect all the wires except for the main 12 volt wire so the radio will turn on and see if that stops the pop and if I does I'll just connect one wire at a time till I hear it pop again . If it pops with just the power connected I don't know what to do about that . I you find out why this is happening will you send me a message ? Thanks

 

[Kjh]

So has any one figured out this pop in the radio ? I was wanting to use all the original speakers and amp but now not so sure. I have the harnesses coming but waiting on some more info ,,, not much to go by.

 

[Inthefive555]

I ended up gutting the entire old system (speakers, amp, sub, radio) and wired the new pioneer unit directly. No pops or integration noise issues since.

 

[ajax1]

So has any one figured out this pop in the radio ? I was wanting to use all the original speakers and amp but now not so sure. I have the harnesses coming but waiting on some more info ,,, not much to go by.

Why?

 

[clx16]

On the LX you can wire in the factory wires by extending the wiring adaptors all the way over to where the amp (which you will eventually remove in surrender) was previously located. I think adaptor harness was extended 2.5' to reach from the head unit to behind the right dash speaker.

even without an amp my Alpine pushes the speakers just fine.

 

[Kjh]

Why?

well i just recieved my new radio from crutchfield and decided to call the techs in advance to talk me through it. turns out its quite simple for what i want. im using the factory amp but not the cd changer. who the hell buys cd's any more? the metra 70-8112 pligs in to the harness you remove from the amp ( it was the furthest one to the right on my 1996 lx 450. from there you have to extend 2 blues (which hook together) and to the blue from my radio, the red, yellow and black. i have 4 rca cables.( just purchased the extension and 4 (barrel connectors) to extend these to the rca plugins to the back of the radio. so (acording to the crutchfield tech) you now receive power from the amp harness plug, or something like that. now i do notice the orange illumination wire is not included in the harness from the new amp harness but there is an orange wire in some of the origional radio wiring plugs( i think it the gray one if i remember correctly) i think i can just tap into that orange wire to get dimm function. not 100% sure.

 

[Malleus]

It never ceases to amaze me how many people try to perform electrical work without once consulting the EWD. This system is about as complex as a flashlight.

 

[ajax1]

well i just recieved my new radio from crutchfield and decided to call the techs in advance to talk me through it. turns out its quite simple for what i want. im using the factory amp but not the cd changer. who the hell buys cd's any more? the metra 70-8112 pligs in to the harness you remove from the amp ( it was the furthest one to the right on my 1996 lx 450. from there you have to extend 2 blues (which hook together) and to the blue from my radio, the red, yellow and black. i have 4 rca cables.( just purchased the extension and 4 (barrel connectors) to extend these to the rca plugins to the back of the radio. so (acording to the crutchfield tech) you now receive power from the amp harness plug, or something like that. now i do notice the orange illumination wire is not included in the harness from the new amp harness but there is an orange wire in some of the origional radio wiring plugs( i think it the gray one if i remember correctly) i think i can just tap into that orange wire to get dimm function. not 100% sure.

Still trying to figure out why you want to use the 25 year old amp and speakers

 

[smittycrusher]

Instead of starting a new thread, I have a similar, but different question. If this thread jack is in poor form or makes the thread too confusing, I will move it.

I am trying to add a new head unit to my 97’ LX450. I already have a four channel amp running four Polk DXI 6.5” components. I also have a mono amp pushing a 10” sub. I plan to run a the constant power wire directly to an aux fuse block directly wired to the battery. That looks to be the yellow wire on my harness. The blue remote turn on (to amps) from the new harness is simple as well. The two RCA Pre Outs will eliminate the need for connecting any of the speaker wires. I have an aftermarket (non-powered) antenna so no antenna wires need to be connected.

My question is, in addition to my wires connects above, what else needs to be connected to the factory harness? I know ground from new radio harness needs to be connected to factory harness. Anyone know which color wire is the ground on the factory harness? I assume that the orange illumination and red accessory wires on the new harness need to connect to the factory harness as well. Anyone know what color wires in the factory harness they need to be connected to?

Am I missing anything else?

 

[clx16]

I plan to run a the constant power wire directly to an aux fuse block directly wired to the battery.

^^ I assume this is for the headunit not the two Amps. I did the same and would suggest you not use the factory harness ground and create your own.

Possible things you need in addition, if I am not missing something from your post, ACC in, I don't remember which wire was ACC from the factory harness but remember on the LX the power comes from the right panel under the dash speaker were the stock amp was. The power goes from that amp to the headunit. So the connectors that a LC normally would have plugging directly in to the factory head unit are actually all the way over to the right behind that speaker. I believe I tapped ACC there and ran it over to my after market Headunit.

Since you are not using the LX amp and have already wired in your two amps, there isn't much need for use of the factory harness at all.

You didn't say which headunit but if you are using a headunit with HDMI IN and HDMI out or USB IN (also Android Auto or Apply Play), you will want to get a USB, you will want to consider something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MG27XXC/?tag=ihco-20 to bring your HDMI/USB and AUX inputs out from the back of the headunit to a place you can reach (In my case inside my center console) This will make it easier to throw any HDMI output signal up on your headunit (from car puter, cameras that out put hdmi, or cell phone/tablet screen) much easier.

You will also find ACC from the plug in the center console where you remove the cd changer.

If i find my wiring diagram tomorrow I will post it up after I get home in the evening.

 

[smittycrusher]

^^ I assume this is for the headunit not the two Amps. I did the same and would suggest you not use the factory harness ground and create your own.

Funny you mention the ground. Last night I realized that I was being silly using larger power wire and not matching the ground. So I did great my own ground.

I assume that I only need the factory harness for the orange and red, right? Is it safe to assume that the red and orange in the grey factory plug pictured are direct matches with the red and orange in my new head unit harness?

I assume that I only need these for a turn on/off as I turn the cruiser on/off and illumination. Am I correct that this is all I need the factory harness for?

Oh, I am using a very basic JVC single din head unit, so no usb or hdmi needed (it does already have a USB in the front plate of the unit. It has Bluetooth which I will use for music and phone.

The second picture is of the harness for the new radio. Once I get the orange and red sorted, I should be good to go.

 

[clx16]

On the plug I made some notes but I am not sure if it is mapping correctly...

Here are the notes:

Look on the plugs and see if either of them match the pins (very small pin numbers). I believe the first column is the adaptor color and the second is the LX harness.

1 blue white stripe. Blue Gray dot
2 EMPTY
3 red blue with pink stripe
4 yellow. Blue with white stripe
5. White
6 white. Green
7 grey. Blue (smaller gauge)
8 blue
9 EMPTY
10 EMPTY
11 black. Pink
12 two wires. Brown
13. Black
14green. Orange
15 purple. Red

I basically did the same as this thread below using the same adaptors so I wasn't having to actually splice in.
LX450 Stero wiring Post number 4 seems to support your theory.
Your harness is obviously easier since you are not dealing with speakers, antenna power etc.

In short I think you are correct.

I hope this helps. And if it doesn't I will hopefully be home and can find my wiring diagram of how I did mine.

 

[smittycrusher]

Thank you @clx16. Your notes and link were very helpful.

I was wrong on using the grey plug mentioned in my previous post for the illumination and power from the factory harness. I actually needed two wires from the white plug: the blue wire with red stripe (#3) went to the red wire on the new harness (this is the ACC wire). Then I used the green wire (#2) next to that blue/red wire to connect to the orange wire on the new harness (this is illumination). Everything works and I get proper dimming with headlights on. I highly reccomend anyone with an aftermarket amp to run the aftermarket head unit this way. It was super easy and I feel that the constant power wire directly to the battery and upgraded ground cable make a difference.

I am very happy with my sounds system now!