Builds 1996 Land Cruiser Build - "Kronk"

Atomic City

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Joined
Sep 23, 2019
Messages
168
Location
New Mexico
Getting some more work done. I went through all of my valve shims and mixed and matched to get five of the valves in spec. The rest I ordered new shims for from partsouq. They were half the price of anything in the states.

In the meantime, I am assembling what I can. I transferred the power steering pump gear to the new power steering pump. I used an old filter wrench and a towel to hold it in place while I torqued it down to 54 ft-lbs.

I also replaced all of the vacuum lines under the upper intake. I am deleting the EGR on this rig, so I decided to ditch the EGR VSV. I wanted to keep the charcoal canister and fuel VSV, though. One question: If I just unplug and remove the EGR VSV, is it going to give me code? Do I need to put a jumper in or something?

Anyway, a few pictures:

1583108699715.png


No VSV and new hoses:

1583108780491.png


Valve cover is temporarily on just to keep stuff out. Still have to adjust the valves:

1583108812585.png
 

Atomic City

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Joined
Sep 23, 2019
Messages
168
Location
New Mexico


This is what I used

Yeah, I have all of those - you can see one of the keychains in the picture of my upper intake. I just decided to also remove the EGR VSV from under the intake plenum. I wasn't sure if unplugging that connector would cause a code. I did some more digging and found a post that seems to indicate that it should be fine.
 
Joined
Nov 24, 2018
Messages
167
Location
Northern NM
Yeah, I have all of those - you can see one of the keychains in the picture of my upper intake. I just decided to also remove the EGR VSV from under the intake plenum. I wasn't sure if unplugging that connector would cause a code. I did some more digging and found a post that seems to indicate that it should be fine.
yea I just used the test plug, and it did not cause any codes. It took my p401 egr code away.
 

Atomic City

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Joined
Sep 23, 2019
Messages
168
Location
New Mexico
Got all of my valve clearances within spec and finished buttoning up the engine. I then started tackling replacing the hoses near the rear heater core. Man, what a PITA. I hate those stupid roll-up hose clamps that Mr. T uses. Then, getting a knife up there to cut the crusty hoses off is a reach. I got one off, but had to quit for the day before getting the second one off. After replacing the hoses, I will flush the front and rear cores prior to dropping the engine back in.

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1583624343186.png
 

Atomic City

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Joined
Sep 23, 2019
Messages
168
Location
New Mexico
Got all of the hoses for the rear heater core replaced. Then I went to mate the engine to the transmission. Fought that for about 1.5 hours and threw in the towel. Jeebus what a stubborn bastage. Will hopefully get some time to go mess with it some more tomorrow.
 

Atomic City

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Joined
Sep 23, 2019
Messages
168
Location
New Mexico
Finding a bit of time to work on Kronk here and there. I had a big note to myself to torque the crank bolt taped to the steering wheel. I got that done and all of the electrical connections made as well as the accelerator, cruise, and kickdown cables connected. Next up is dropping the new RD raddy in place.

20200323_173619.jpg
 
Joined
May 24, 2017
Messages
79
Location
CA
don’t be nervous, you should be excited! i have been following silently but man I am excited for you. It’s been a long time since i’ve had that new engine first start excitement. Just make a list of things to check, you’ll be fine.
 
Joined
Nov 24, 2018
Messages
167
Location
Northern NM
What are you going to use for a break in oil? Old timers taught me to use a quart of marvel mystery oil mix in with reg oil for break in.
 

Atomic City

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Sep 23, 2019
Messages
168
Location
New Mexico
Well, I got it fired. Pulled the plugs, EFI relay, and ignition wire and primed the oil pump with the starter. Took a while, but the oil pressure came up. Put everything back together and fired it up. Started pretty quickly, and was running pretty nicely. Once it got up to temp, I took her up to about 2K rpm and noticed a weird chirping noise. I tried capturing a phone video of it, but you can't really hear it well in the video. I'll post it later when it is done processing, but in the meantime, here it is idling:

 

Atomic City

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Joined
Sep 23, 2019
Messages
168
Location
New Mexico
Alright, here is the higher rpm video. You can barely hear it - it is like a somewhat rhythmic chirp/rattle in the video. Only happens at higher rpm. This was at about 2300 rpm.

 

Atomic City

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Joined
Sep 23, 2019
Messages
168
Location
New Mexico
Wondering if it is PS pump, or maybe the starter? I have heard they can make noise if not quite right. I didn't top off the trans fluid, neither - was going to get to that after the break-in.
 

Atomic City

SILVER Star
Joined
Sep 23, 2019
Messages
168
Location
New Mexico
Got the power steering pump bled. The noise doesn't seem to be there today, although there is a kind of scratching/rattling sound - it might be the exhaust leak I have between the cats. They are old magnaflow cats and the PO gave me a spare gasket for that space - but I am not sure if it was the right one. There was no way to really get it to center when I installed it. I sort of balanced it in place with a flat blade screwdriver and "clamped it down". But obviously it didn't work - it is leaking like crazy. I contacted magnaflow to see if I can just order a new gasket. Will a Toyota one fit there?

Anyway, I drove it home (I was working on it at my mother-in-law's garage), probably a total of 1 mile. Was super boggy, and wouldn't shift. I went to drive up my driveway, which has an incline, and the truck wouldn't do it, and sort of made this "clang clang" sound. I also got an error code about a shift solenoid. The trans fluid was really low. So, I parked it out on the street and went through the process of filling the transmission. I haven't had a chance to take it out to see if it fixes the problem. Hopefully I didn't eff something up.

I also set the timing at a bout 4 deg BTDC. My check engine light wouldn't flash when I put the jumper in the diagnostic box between E1 and TE1, so I wasn't sure if I was in the diagnostic mode. So I looked at the timing with and without the jumper. With the jumper, it was at about 4, without it was about 9 or 10. So, I guess I was in the mode.

My idle is really low. I don't think I did anything with the IAC, but I will look into it tomorrow maybe.

Good to have the rig parked out front again.
 
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