For Sale 1994 Locked FZJ80 converted to 1HD-T/A442 (1 Viewer)

Location
United States
Its been mentioned I might want to give context for the build and the sale. I was building this vehicle as a 1st couple years of retirement travel North America, perhaps South America and beyond vehicle. So everything I was doing was with this goal in mind. I am adapting to some change in my life, so I am letting it go. My BJ42 in my sig line is for sale as well, however thats another posting in the near future. In the meantime, it would be sweet to follow this vehicles trek around the world if someone is planning such an adventure and looking for a great truck. It needs a few things tidied up, a storage system and rtt...then good to go.

For sale is my 1994 FZJ80 that has been converted to a 1HD-T/A442 (electronic), non viscus coupler t-case.

$28.900.00 OBO.

Located near Vancouver BC, Canada.

I bought this truck out of California in 2008 with almost 200K miles on it. It now has 223K miles on the chassis. I did not get the donor vehicle cluster with this engine, however know it's over 100,000kms, and under 200,000kms. The timing belt sticker that was on the engine indicated it was done near 100,000kms. The new timing belt sticker says 217,000 miles, to match this vehicles odometer. The engine is healthy. I had the compression tested by an independent shop today and it was 520 psi. Oil pressure is above minimum at 35lbs hot idle. I have driven it 6000 miles since the swap, and the engine has run 303 hours (the Madman gauge has an hour meter). It's due for an oil change, which will be completed in the next few weeks. The odo is not corrected for tire size, and it had 255/85R16's on it till the 315's went on a few months back.

I will consider trades plus cash if you have an early 2000's Jetta TDi.

I’ll be updating this thread with pictures later this week, however in the meantime here are some pictures:https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-...planted-80-series-registry-6.html#post6668574

I’ll also update this post as needed with items I have in the storage that come with it. And as I recall other items that have been done, need doing, have just been done, or the new owner should know.

As part of the install I used a lot of new parts and a lot of little things were done (New power steering pump o-ring, new engine rubbers, transmission rubber, radiator, most coolant hoses, metal coolant line for the turbo behind the timing belt cover) etc. The more obvious items are listed below.

•Injectors and injection pump baselined (rebuilt)
•Connecting Rod Bearings replaced with ACL Duraglide (new conrod bolts)
•Turbo baselined (rebuilt), ceramic coated hot/cold sides
•Ceramic coated exhaust manifold
•New timing belt and idler pully/spring
•Valve set done during the swap
•New water pump, thermostat and o-ring
•New Rear Main Oil Seal when doing the Connecting Rod Bearings
•Next best thing to a factory install, with working cruise control
•Correct supply and return fuel lines
•Madman EMS1 gauge and digital boost gauge
•3” rage big bore exhaust (chromeacoated)
•Walbro pusher pump on isolated bracket by the fuel tank
•Factory twin fuel tank filler installed and awaiting the install of the 2nd tank
•Wholesale Automatic Billet Torque Converter
•Wholesale Automatic Valvebody
•Factory Lockers (rear locker just flashing) (repaired 2011-11-30)
•Center Diff Lock button (no pin 7 done)
•Slee 4” lift, OME Lshocks and OME steering Damper
•Slee adjustable panhards front and rear
•Hanna Caster Plates
•Front double carden driveshaft
•Hanna Sluice addition sliders
•Hanna rear bumper with spare tire and fuel can swing aways
•Rear bumper modified with integral receiver
•ARB winch bumper (no winch)
•CruisinOffroad skidplate
•Bolt on side bars (slider to front bumper, slider to rear bumper)
•Deflared
•Repaint (California truck, no rust, was building my retirement cruiser)
•Exterior lower sections color matched Linex
•Non roof rack model
•New rear hatch and hood struts
•Front and middle row JDM grey cloth (have the 3rd row leather seats – not installed)
•Husky front and middle row liners
•4 new 315/75R16 Goodyear MTR/K on factory alloys
•1 use 315/75R16 Goodyear MTR on factory alloy
•Alpine stereo head, with iPod cable through to center armrest console
•Pioneer speakers in the front doors, and factory for the rest.
•Replaced rear gate/hatch rubber (on body of the truck) last year
•Front brakes Brembo rotors and 100 series pads
•Hanna Quality interior rack (one-right side)
•New front drive plates this year
•Front, center and rear diff 75/90 Chevron synth and molyslip additive
•HIR headlights
•LED reverse bulbs
•Hella 4000 lights on front bumper (need to be wired again)
•LED Dome Lamps

Not installed but can come with the truck dependent on deal struck:

•Slee heavy duty rear control arms
•Slee adjustable rear upper control arms
•LandTank HD Sway Bar brackets
•Front L and R side door glass slide rubbers
•George circuit board for auxiliary fuel tank control
•Auxiliary factory fuel tank and straps
•Slee headlight harness
•4 pin trailer harness 70% installed (needs to be routed through the rear quarter, then over to the bumper). It’s the plug and play style.
•Slee AC Dryer Skidplate

Still needs to be finished…but the new owner will use this as an opportunity to know the truck:

•Install the above listed items
•Install Madman hookups for transmission temperature, oil pressure and coolant temperature (wiring all there in the engine bay).
•Figure out why the tachometer drops out at 2600-2700rpm (either sender on the back of the injection pump or the tachometer itself…this in no way effects the performance of the truck)
•Fix a rattle with the exhaust
•Remove/inspect/repair rear locker motor (Repaired and working flawless 2011-11-30)
•Install a relay to supply 12V to the glow plug bus through a push button switch (I’ve been starting it in up to -3C with no problems, but if you are in a colder climate it will need a glow system hooked up).
•New glass slide rubbers for the middle row doors (very slow in the cold)

Maintenance/Baseline that I was going to do to baseline the rest of the truck over the next few years:

•Front knuckles (not needed now afaik, however it was on the baseline list for me when time presented) (See Post #7)
•All 4 corners: wheel bearing check, repack. (Completed 2011-11-30)
•Front birf check and repack (not clicking at this time, and I have added ½ tube moly grease through the knuckle fill plug twice since I have had the truck)
•Compete front and rear brake rebuilds when new pads needed. (See Post #7)

Things to know:

The A pillar showed some water a couple times this last summer during some rains (dripping off the bottom of the grab handle). I did the Mud checks of running weed wacker cord down the sun roof drains (did not feel any blockage), and ran some thin wire around the sun roof weather seal. I’ve not noticed anything this last month or two, but it’s something to keep an eye on. The windshield was new in California and reinstalled/sealed when I got back into Canada.

The rear bumper has some powder coat lifted. The truck has been wheeled so the protection has battle scars. I have serviced the swing out bearings.

g b o w i e (at) s h a w dot c a for email.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Nov 12, 2003
Messages
1,274
Location
Truckee, CA
did this 80 come from USA originally?
Does it still have the Federal Emissions sticker(s) on the bottom of the hood?
 
Joined
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Messages
4,848
did this 80 come from USA originally?
Does it still have the Federal Emissions sticker(s) on the bottom of the hood?

Yes, and yes. I'll double check the hood, but afaik it's the way it was when I brought it up. It is registered as a diesel here, as it was a simple field change in our insurance system in BC when the swap was completed.

gb
 
Joined
Nov 12, 2003
Messages
1,274
Location
Truckee, CA
ah... good. That means the truck does not need to be "imported", though getting it across the border may take some paperwork.
 
Joined
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Messages
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I took the vehicle to an independent shop today to have them re and re the rear locker, check timing on the injection pump, do a compression test, and check/repack all four wheel bearings. Check post #1 for updates.

In addition, they indicated one rear disc needs attention, and the front knuckles should be looked at in the not too distant future. I will look after the rear brakes on both sides.

It looks like I won't be getting pictures posted up till the weekend, so in the meantime here are some of the engine when out of the truck, and during the install.

gb
Hot Side Detail-1.jpg
Installed-1.jpg
Big Bore Exhaust-1.jpg
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jun 15, 2011
Messages
80
Location
Alaska
To import, both US DOT and US EPA stickers should be affixed if neither is, you must have a letter of conformity from the manufacture with vin# in body of letter, its that simple.
 
Joined
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Messages
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To import, both US DOT and US EPA stickers should be affixed if neither is, you must have a letter of conformity from the manufacture with vin# in body of letter, its that simple.

It's all the way it was when it came up to Canada from the USA. No worries.

As gifu said:
ah... good. That means the truck does not need to be "imported", though getting it across the border may take some paperwork.

gb
 
Joined
Jan 4, 2006
Messages
883
Location
Houston, TX
what kind of fuel efficiency are you seeing with the diesel swap?
 
Joined
Jul 3, 2005
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Location
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ihdt isnt one of toyotas more efficient engines- the 1hdt would probably do a bit better with a 5spd as the slushbox doesnt add much to the effiiency. 3-4mpg better than a gas version. 1-2mpg is offset by current diesel over gas price on my coast. so net net---maybe a 1-2mpg difference over gas.
 
Last edited:
Joined
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Messages
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I've not been tracking the mileage faithfully, however will over the next few tanks. With the FZ and mainly around town driving I was was netting 200 miles per fill (75-80 liters). Mainly around town after the 1HD-T was put in is netting around 300 miles per fill (75-80 liters), however have noticed a hit on that as the 315's and winter fuel showed up around the same time, so I'll track and do the math. On a road trip after the swap I went 539 miles, using 104 liters: into the number cruncher and converted 6% for tire size = 11.32l/100kms or 20.78 usmpg or 24.95impg. This was with the 255's on.

I think the Extreme VB and TC will help some, and a TC lockup switch was on the list as well: http://www.automatictransmission.com.au/release.asp?NewsId=42068

gb
 

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