1985 4Runner clutch problem

[CamTom12]

I posted my question in the 4Runner area before I saw this one. Probably makes more sense to go here.

Can a mod move it into this spot or should I just repost it?

C

Thread '1st Gen 4Runner clutch issues'

Nov 24, 2025

Hey gang, first post over here but I’ve been directed here a bunch from google searches. Tons of knowledge!

Since I’ve owned my 85 4Runner, the transmission has always been difficult to shift into first and second. I assumed the synchros were going out and it would need a rebuild at some point.

About a year ago the input shaft chipped some teeth and I sent the trans off to Marlin for a rebuild. Due to life, work, and kids I just got it running again about a month ago.

While I was in there, I replaced the flywheel, clutch, pilot and throw out bearings, and all clutch related hydraulics...

• CamTom12
• Replies: 2
• Forum: Toyota 4Runner

 

[Mudder]

What transmission oil are you running in it? When adjusting the clutch pedal what procedure did you use?

When looking at Yotashop I see two clutch forks, there's one for a V6 and one for a I4. 31204-20071 is the one you'd need, the pivot would be 31236-30060. I don't see that being the problem though.

I'd be double checking that the pedal free-play and that the pedal height is in spec with what the FSM says it should be.

 

[CamTom12]

MT90. I adjusted the free play using the FSM procedure but didn’t mess with the pedal height. I can check that tomorrow. Thanks for the idea!

 

[aztoyman]

The clutch/brake bracket is known to crack. Even if not cracked the pins and pin holes get wallowed out BAD. Since everything else is new and fresh, maybe pull the bracket and freshen it up too.

I had to weld mine up and re drill the holes in the pedals. I beefed it up by welding washers on. (More surface area for the pins) There's thin plastic bushings that wear out too.

Good luck with your project!

Scott in AZ.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

Another issue could be clutch master and slave set up. Using aftermarket sourced hydraulics has caused many an issue, tossing the factory clutch line for a SS line also helps with throw, the factory soft like can give too much

Put the rig in 1st. Now redline the motor with the clutch depressed. Does she pull? Shift into 4low and try it again if she didn't

If she pulls your clutch is dragging, that will cause hard shifts and eat synchros.

On my r150 mt90 was ok, a little clunky when cold. 10w40 synthetic Royal purple shifted better.

 

[gnob]

the way i check clutch disengagement is with reverse.
press the clutch and move to the reverse gate. if it doesn't grind your clutch is adjusted properly. i normally set the pedal to engage just off the floor. generally have a good amount of free play on the top

 

[CamTom12]

Another issue could be clutch master and slave set up. Using aftermarket sourced hydraulics has caused many an issue, tossing the factory clutch line for a SS line also helps with throw, the factory soft like can give too much

Put the rig in 1st. Now redline the motor with the clutch depressed. Does she pull? Shift into 4low and try it again if she didn't

If she pulls your clutch is dragging, that will cause hard shifts and eat synchros.

On my r150 mt90 was ok, a little clunky when cold. 10w40 synthetic Royal purple shifted better.

The master and slave were marketed as OEM on yotashop, I figured they’d be good. Same performance as the master (not sure if OEM) and slave (looked factory original!) that came on the truck. I’ve noticed it seems to get easier into 1st and 2nd as the truck warms up. I might swap fluids to try that, too.

I’ll try that clutch dragging test.

the way i check clutch disengagement is with reverse.
press the clutch and move to the reverse gate. if it doesn't grind your clutch is adjusted properly. i normally set the pedal to engage just off the floor. generally have a good amount of free play on the top

No grinding in reverse. I prefer mine to engage mid-travel. Feels like top 1/3 now since I adjusted but 1st and 2nd are easier to get into.

I’ll pull the whole assembly and look for cracks/wear first. Thanks for the advice!

 

[CamTom12]

no visible cracks or wear, and since adjusting the pushrod it’s behaving much better when warm. Still grumpy in 1st and 2nd when cold.

I don’t remember my last W56 in my old 4Runner acting like this but it’s been over 15 years since I drove that last.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

Did you by chance try the clutch drag test?

If everything is in working order it is possible you have worn synchros.

Some people swear by mt90. I found that and cheap gl4 80w90 shifted identical. In cold weather below about 40 it's notchy until it warms up. The more worn the synchros, the worse it is.

Mt90 is almost as much as mercruiser foot oil now. You can try draining it into a clean container and refill with any cheap Walmart brand 10w30 full synthetic. I'm unsure of the w56 capacity, the r150 is similar and holds 3.2 quarts.

I'm lazy and find it shifts better with 4 quarts. I pull the shifter after draining and fill from the top. If I am forced to fill from the bottom I pull out a 12v transfer pump.

10w30 will shift smoother in colder weather vs 10w40.
Yota never recommended synthetic motor oil in their w56/r150 to my knowledge but these are essentially the same transmissions as the jeep ax15/ax15

Aisin, who makes them, put out a service bulletin through jeep years after making these as the gl5 80w90 of that era slowly ate synchros.


You'll find much more info on the jeep version transmissions and trial/error of different oils on forums than you will yotas.