1984 FJ60 clutch slave cylinder location for bleeding

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IS2SPICY4U

IS2SPICY4U

10 Year
Joined
Aug 19, 2012
Threads
24
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87
Location
Eugene, OR
Can someone please point me to where the slave cylinder is on a 1984 2F? I cannot find it and the FSM (found online) does not specifies where the slave cylinder is located in the engine bay.

The clutch failed on me on the first day after buying my first FJ. I drove from the PO's place back home for about 120 mi. and close to home I notice some rubber banding action on the clutch during city driving. Sluggish and very loose feeling on the pedal. Sure enough about 1.5 blocks from the house the clutch wouldn't engage.

Not knowing much about the clutch, the google machine pointed me to the clutch master cylinder. And I noticed right away that the reservoir was empty. It was not empty a couple of days prior when I did the initial inspection on the rig. So first project.. look for the leak.

In the meantime, I did take the master cylinder out and took out the reservoir as I noticed some gunk and black paste looking residue in it, so I suspected clogged piston/lines. Is the original master cylinder so it needed some cleaning. It is clean and ready to go back in, piston has nice and smooth action when pressed so I am hoping this should do it. However, I need to know where the slave is located so I can bleed the air outta the lines once I install the master cylinder back up.

Thank you.
 
It's down on the right frame rail side of transission. It pushes on the clutch fork
 
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Will try...I can get there, but might not be able to get you there. Here is my best description:

A) engine bay, on the US passenger side
B) down low, towards the ground
C) will have a rubber boot for protection from the elements.
D) go to the Master Clyinder & then follow the hard lines over to what I have described above.

Maybe someone can post a picture...good luck.

John
 
I was wrong in my previous post. It is bolted to the right of the transmission not the frame rail.

IMG_20160310_074420.webp
 
Right on! Thank you guys for all your input.

I was able to find this AM after reading some of the responses from last night. It does looks like I will need to replace them both master and slave. Although I need to start with the slave, as I can see there is fluid leaking because the rubber boot on it was very wet.

After putting the master back on and filling with fluid, I was able to bleed it to get good pressure. It works now. I just have to make sure I check the fluid level before I leave the house. I'll be changing the slave next week.

Thank you again! :)
 
I think I hit a snag. I need some advice.

I replace the master cyl. and the slave. Once installed, I did the bleeding by gravity.. I filled the master cyl. reservoir and I opened the release valve on the slave until fluid started to come out. I closed the valve and filled the master cyl. reservoir back up.

However, when I went to press on the clutch pedal it was still very sluggish I could hear fluid hitting the floor. Sure enough almost all the fluid is gone from the reservoir and it leaked again on the boot of the slave cyl. What the heck?? On a brand new slave cyl???

Here is the new slave showing the leak:
full


1- I noticed that the push rod on the old slave was much longer than the push rod on the new one. Any thoughts?
2- On opg's picture, the clutch fork seems to be closer to the slave cyl:
opg4759a said:
I was wrong in my previous post. It is bolted to the right of the transmission not the frame rail.

View attachment 1222627
Click to expand...

3- Is my issue the spring for the clutch fork?? Here's a pic, it seems that the clutch fork is too far from the slave cyl. thus the push rod is already extended to the max, thus fluid just leaks. Thoughts???
full

Do I need to adjust the bolts on the push rod so the clutch fork is closer?
 
Clutch fork question now...

I took the slave cyl. off to further troubleshoot. I noticed a bit of play on the clutch fork. Should there be any? The boot was busted and all chewed up so I took it off, to avoid the gunk from the boot interfering with the fork movement. I know I'll to put a new one to avoid debris getting into the clutch.

Should I be able to actuate the clutch by hand moving the clutch fork? Should there by any resistance? It feels pretty sluggish and resembles how the pedal feels.

Could I have an issue with the actual clutch components?

Feedback always appreciated.
 
Is this normal? I don't think it is. I guess I won't know for sure once I lower the trans and inspect closer. But can some one share an idea of what could be wrong? Clutch was replaced within the last year according to PO, so I won't be doing that. Luckily once you remove the trans access to the fork is right there so it should be an easy replacement. Just the work into removing the trans. Which I know there are quite a few posts on this process, I've bookmarked a few.

Any input always appreciated.
 
No, that is not right.
Could be the clips that hold the fork onto the clutch hub / release (throwout) bearing are awol, or bent off the hub.
Search the fsm for pictures on this, and it is a tough job to fix in small space (small hands) without disassembly. You could also remove the clutch cover from underneath the bell housing for more access.
 
Well... I got it fixed.

I ended up using the push rod from the old slave in the new slave. The old push rod is thicker and longer o_O. I installed everything back together, this time I made sure the push rod on the slave was all the way in until I felt the piston being activated. The old push rod even comes with a groove on which the rubber boot from the slave cyl. sits in place. I put some new fluid in the master, I used the gravity approach to bleed the air out of the lines, and this time I had the clutch cover in the bell housing off to actually see it in action. This time I had a helper slowly push on the pedal and I verified there was no leaks. Sigh of relief! No leaks and I could see the clutch fork push in the bearing and hub. Did a drive test around the block and checked for leaks. Nothing. All looked good.

Lessons learned:

  1. I think what originally happened, now in hindsight since I did not know much about the clutch when I first started, the old push rod went out too far outside of the piston chamber in the slave cylinder. This caused for the push rod to sort of hang loose with one end loose in the rubber boot of the slave cylinder and the other end held in place by the clutch fork. This caused fluid to leak until there was no pressure in the lines and nothing was being actuated at times, thus the clutch would not engage.
  2. The video I posted yesterday showing how the clutch fork was loose and moving around in the housing and banging, am not expert but I believe that to be normal. Here's why:
  • First, the banging noise you hear is the release bearing and hub touching and subsequently banging against the clutch cover. Nothing abnormal about that. We don't hear it during normal conditions due to other noises in the cabin/engine/road/etc.
  • The up/down play you see is also nothing to worry about, as I was able to check once I took the clutch cover off. I could see very small play where the fork attaches to the hub with the wire pins. The fork was not coming loose off the hub by any means
  • Lastly, in the video, when I pus the fork forward (opposite to its normal operating direction) it shows the fork sort of getting stuck and not releasing back to its normal position. This is cause precisely to avoid for the fork to come off the bolt it pivots on. The fork comes with a wire clip system that is attached to face side of the fork arm, these wires prevent the fork to come loose by stopping against the head of the bolt. If you were to take the fork off, you would have to spread open the wires in the clip to by-pass the bolt head and then slide the fork off the bolt. While in place, the fork does move up and down that bolt and is stopped in place when it reaches the head of the bolt by the wires in the clip. Again, all normal, as the fork only pivots on one direction during normal operation, it is slightly pushed in the opposite direction by the tension spring attached to the fork and the slave cylinder bracket.
By any means, please correct me where I may be wrong or if someone has a more technical explanation that could help also. In any case, I will continue to monitor for leaks and proper clutch engagement and pedal resistance for a few days. But for now, is late, am hungry, am dirty, is time to call it a day.
 
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IS2SPICY4U said:
Well... I got it fixed.

I also replaced the slave cylinder (or CLUTCH RELEASE CYLINDER) in my 1985 fj60. I ran into the same thing as the replacement from NAPA had a longer shaft that was threaded. I assume this is for adjustable ones, not sure. I took the old shaft, put it through the new boot, and installed it. After bleeding, it drives great, been 300 or so miles.
Lessons learned:
Click to expand...
 
Dumb question in 3...2...1...
I'm having issues with my clutch(soft and squishy) and have ordered new master and release cylinders. The release cylinder came in and upon removing it from the box, not taking it out of its plastic bag, i noticed the rod was bent/cocked to the side. A quick wiggle of the rod and it popped back into place. Is this normal? Does the rod just sit inside the piston? It seems that way from the diagram posted on the link above but I want to make sure. I don't want to open the package all the way if I have to take it back to Toyota. The box or bag don't seem to be damaged.
 
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