1981 FJ40 $4000 obo

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Location
United States
1981 FJ40 Land Cruiser
1981 FJ40

ENGINE:

190,000 miles, 2F motor

Electronic Distributor

De smogged

New radiator

New thermostat housing / thermostat

Rebuilt Carb

New oil pan gasket

Wired for Chevy TBI, (includes wiring / custom distributor / TBI / speed sensor / ECU / all sensors and adaptors / 75% done…. needs chip and tuning)



DRIVETRAIN:

Power steering

4-speed transmission

New “Centerforce” clutch

Resurfaced flywheel

New rear main seal / throw out bearing / clutch slave cylinder

15” steel wheels with 33” BFG mud terrain tires (70% tread left)

Rebuilt front axle with “Lockright” locker, new seals, bearings

Stock rear axle with “Lockright” locker

OME 2.5 inch greasable shackles, shocks and steering stabilizer



EVERYTHING ELSE:

New rear lights

9000lb winch with new cable, solenoids, (winch has broken gear housing)

Completely rewired with new fuse box mounted in glove box

Sparco 3-point harnesses

Full six point to frame roll cage

Cb radio



This is a great trail truck, just needs a little work to get it finished. The body has rust but it is an FJ thats 27 years old.
The truck is located in Summit County, Colorado
Please call or email me with any questions you have, or if you need more specific pictures.

Thanks for looking!



Keith :970 389 4106
FJ1.webp
FJ2.webp
 
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I just dropped 3300.00 on a 73 FJ40 that is 100% original. I wanted a rig just like yours, but they are hard to find in kansas. I will let some of the guys know about this deal.
 
cofj said:
Thanks, i was not sure how much it is worth.......:confused:

no one?....price to high?......wrong color?
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Price is good, but tough seller's market. Nice rig, it'll sell, wheel it in the meantime!
 
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I saw this post you did a little while ago regarding your motor. I'm wondering if the motor is still "bad" like you said.


Posts: 13
3F or 3FE into FJ40

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I have searched this topic and not found to much info, so here goes.
Like many people i'm on a budget, my 81 FJ40 has a "bad" 2F engine.

Rather than buy a new/ rebuilt 2F am i better off buying a used 2F or are there any benefits to the 3F engine? I have no problems with making new engine mounts etc (cheap fab stuff) if i end up with a better product.

If anyone has any thoughts or know's where i can get a good engine in the Denver CO area please let me know!

Thanks in advance
 
The engine is "bad" in respect that it is old...
190,000 miles,
had a couple of oil leaks....oil leaks have been fixed, new oil pan gasket and fuel pump leak
It starts and runs, but it is 27 years old.

Thanks for looking
 
When someone tells me they have a "bad" engine a couple of thing come to mind i.e. rod knock or a bad head gasket. Oil leaks are the norm with an engine with that kind of mileage (and 190,000k isn't a stifling # for a 2F). I had a 4Runner with a 22RE and almost 280,000k. When I sold it and there wasn't anything "bad" about the motor. The guy I sold it to still drives it now. How's the compression in the cylinders? Not trying to knock your post, but I'd be furious if I forked out $4000 for your truck and had it shipped to PA for an extra $600-$1000 to find out in needed a motor. If it does you need to disclose this kind of info to a potential buyer.
 
well....i did a compression test when i purchased the truck and two of the cylinders did have lower compression, i can't remember the numbers now. The truck does not smoke, But without tearing the engine apart, i dont know if it has any internal issues.

I guess if you purchased the truck sight unseen, or anything else for that matter, it's always a gamble. I'm been totally open about the condition of the truck and how it drives.

It's available for a test drive any day. Sorry if you feel that you have been lied to in any way but i feel that it's an honest post.
 
For what its worth it is easy to run a compression test. Pull a plug, screw in the compression tester, turn her over and read the #. Repeat 5 more times. If you have low #s in a couple cylinders run a wet test w/ a few drops of oil in each cylinder.

This would help potential buyers know what they are getting into and is an easy way to start diagnosing the condition of an engine without tearing into it.

:cheers:
 
eventhough said:
For what its worth it is easy to run a compression test. Pull a plug, screw in the compression tester, turn her over and read the #. Repeat 5 more times. If you have low #s in a couple cylinders run a wet test w/ a few drops of oil in each cylinder.

This would help potential buyers know what they are getting into and is an easy way to start diagnosing the condition of an engine without tearing into it.

:cheers:
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Amen to that brother!!!
 
Update......

Winch repaired and is working
(new clutch housing, new main shaft, new clutch fork)

New front light lenses installed

New exterior drivers door handle installed

Fresh coat of exterior paint

Oil and filter change

still for sale..........
 
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