1977 Cali Spec Distributor-Pertronix kit (1 Viewer)

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ND # 19100-61060 (029100-4091), Dual vacuum ports on diaphragm

Pertronix magnet stamped 16623/16613

Went to replace cap and rotor and realized an issue, clearly I can tell previous owner(s) sanded down rotor but newer rotor 19102-45150 can’t be shaved as much due to newer style.

I want to get this right during replacement and have searched for details. Seen various discussion about proper kit available from Kurt and Mark. I have also noted some using the 1661 kit but having similar magnet sleeve clearance issues.

Just curious if anyone here has been through this with a 75-77 (pre-full electronic) and can clarify proper kit/parts.

TIA.
 
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I have the LS kit ( lobe sensor) with a cityracer oem distributor.

Works perfect
 
This one
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15873237032448625994846871010779.jpg
 
Awesome, thanks ERNRAM. Did you use a specific rotor or factory. Saw mention of a non-interference rotor unit, I am planning on keeping OEM distributor as well. Don’t see why standard OEM rotor won’t work.
 
If you need to know how to wire it, ping me later
 
Wiring

The Pertronix has a red and black wire.
The 77 wiring harness has a thick black with yellow wire with an eyelet. There is also a white wire that comes out of a green connector junction

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Black wire from Pertronix goes to negative side of coil

All the rest go to positive side of coil. This includes the red wire from Pertronix, the thick black with yellow stripe and the white wire from the green connector junction
 
Think I got it based on no longer needing ballast resistor. Attached is current setup (look forward to cleaning this up). What about additional wiring on OEM Ignitor assembly box?

Really question is about the capped wire from OEM ignitor Assembly. Red coming off that negative side of existing coil is actually a aftermarket tach wire, not sure why they used red wire...

B4F53594-556D-49D6-ABA1-026AF832D826.jpeg
 
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Think I got it based on no longer needing ballast resistor. Attached is current setup (look forward to cleaning this up). What about additional wiring on OEM Ignitor assembly box?

Really question is about the capped wire from OEM ignitor Assembly. Red coming off that negative side of existing coil is actually a aftermarket tach wire, not sure why they used red wire...

View attachment 2281277
Basically I removed the entire ignitor unit with the ballist resistor

One one side of the resistor is the large black with yellow stripe. That goes to the positive side of the coil.

Currently you have a red wire coming off the other side of the resistor and going to the positive side of the coil. This connection is no longer used and you can unplug it from the positive side of the coil.

You already have the white wire from the green connector junction going to the positive side of the coil.

The only other cable going to the ignitor in my original case was a red wire from the original distributor. I unplugged it, since I wanted to bring the red and black directly to the coil.

The black from the Pertronix goes to the negative side of the coil and the red goes to the positive.

So at this time 1 wire to negative (black from Pertronix) and 3 to the positive ( black with yellow stripe, white from green junction connector, and red from Pertronix). I don't have a tach, but normally that goes to the negative side of the coil.

Hope that helps
Ernie
 
Basically I removed the entire ignitor unit with the ballist resistor

One one side of the resistor is the large black with yellow stripe. That goes to the positive side of the coil.

Currently you have a red wire coming off the other side of the resistor and going to the positive side of the coil. This connection is no longer used and you can unplug it from the positive side of the coil.

You already have the white wire from the green connector junction going to the positive side of the coil.

The only other cable going to the ignitor in my original case was a red wire from the original distributor. I unplugged it, since I wanted to bring the red and black directly to the coil.

The black from the Pertronix goes to the negative side of the coil and the red goes to the positive.

So at this time 1 wire to negative (black from Pertronix) and 3 to the positive ( black with yellow stripe, white from green junction connector, and red from Pertronix). I don't have a tach, but normally that goes to the negative side of the coil.

Hope that helps
Ernie

This was the City racer distrib I used:

 
Basically I removed the entire ignitor unit with the ballist resistor

One one side of the resistor is the large black with yellow stripe. That goes to the positive side of the coil.

Currently you have a red wire coming off the other side of the resistor and going to the positive side of the coil. This connection is no longer used and you can unplug it from the positive side of the coil.

You already have the white wire from the green connector junction going to the positive side of the coil.

The only other cable going to the ignitor in my original case was a red wire from the original distributor. I unplugged it, since I wanted to bring the red and black directly to the coil.

The black from the Pertronix goes to the negative side of the coil and the red goes to the positive.

So at this time 1 wire to negative (black from Pertronix) and 3 to the positive ( black with yellow stripe, white from green junction connector, and red from Pertronix). I don't have a tach, but normally that goes to the negative side of the coil.

Hope that helps
Ernie

Good info in here!
 

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