1972 FJ40 Rear Lift Gate Lock Mechanism (1 Viewer)

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Hello! New to the group. Just got (about 2 years ago but babies didn't allow me to work on it till now) a 1972 FJ40 (5/72) with a SBC350 and Turbo 400 Trans. It looks like the previous owner did the major stuff, engine, trans, brakes, etc but I'm left with fixing the little stuff which leads me to my first post...

Rear Lift Gate Mechanism works but if you turn the handle just a little bit it opens. I would think a quarter turn would be needed. I attached some pics because maybe there are missing pieces or some rigging I don't know about, I googled but couldn't find this year. I know the lock is gone but the inner handle has a lock on it. Thanks in advance!

Rear Lift Gate Lock Mechanism 1.jpeg


Rear Lift Gate Lock Mechanism 2.jpeg


Rear Lift Gate Lock Mechanism 3.jpeg
 
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See pic. You can adjust these spots a little to add some “slop” before it opens. The other way I know of is to check your top sides. If they are too far out on the tub, the latches barely have anything to grab so they’ll disengage quickly.
C852F23A-AEB8-48AE-9842-F1684B1B78E0.jpeg
 
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Thank you, I will try that. Does the lock and mechanism look like its all there? Also, where are the top sides?
 
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The top sides being the sides of the hardtop itself where the hatch would latch to.
Also, just noticed there’s a piece riveted to the mechanism in your first pic. That’s not factory.
 
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That's what I thought, but I think that needs to be there for the outside handle to open. Does anyone have a picture of the mechanism for a 5/72 (or same years)? I couldn't find anything but the Haynes manual diagram. Other years where close but not the same.
 

73FJ40

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This is from my Jan 1973, as it left the factory, before I disassembled. Note that the lock cylinder turns its lever arm into a slot on the lift-up chrome hand lever arm, to prevent it from being able to be pulled to open the hatch.

Pulling the outside handle pivots the lower chrome lever up against the flanged part of the latch actuator. I suspect the riveted part on your handle is making up for a broken or missing flanged part.

1618182851413.png
 
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Here is my 2/71, if you still need pics. One side latch is already disconnected, that’s why the one linkage toward the top looks off
FE122C57-11A9-440B-99A3-CB7833077C06.jpeg
 
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Thank you all so much! I'm going to see if I can adjust it and eliminate the add on part. Any idea where I can get the lock, clip and lock arm? Thanks.
 

73FJ40

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@diggs2701

Cylinder Key Set B Dr Lock - Toyota (69540-60010) about $26 list at the OEM dealer

Plate, back door lock 69384-60020, No Longer available

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@73FJ40 Thank you, I'm ordering the lock but a few questions;

1) Should I get a set for the doors also since the keys will be different? I don't have the keys for the doors anyway.
2) Without the plate (I'm assuming this is the arm that swings?) what should I do?

Thanks.
 

73FJ40

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@diggs2701

1) Should I get a set for the doors also since the keys will be different? I don't have the keys for the doors anyway.
Door(s)? The 5/72 shows only a lock on the driver's door. If you have locks on both doors, maybe a PO upgraded?
In any event, if you can remove the lock(s) and they have a code, or if the key has a code, you may be able to have @ToyotaMatt cut you some new keys with his factory equipment and manuals.


2) Without the plate (I'm assuming this is the arm that swings?) what should I do?
Unless someone is willing to sell you one from Classifieds, you'll have to make your own. Note that the lock cylinder shaft has a square section that drives the plate. If you look closely at the external latch handle inside the hatch, you'll see a slot for the plate to fit into when the handle is locked.
 
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@diggs2701

1) Should I get a set for the doors also since the keys will be different? I don't have the keys for the doors anyway.
Door(s)? The 5/72 shows only a lock on the driver's door. If you have locks on both doors, maybe a PO upgraded?
In any event, if you can remove the lock(s) and they have a code, or if the key has a code, you may be able to have @ToyotaMatt cut you some new keys with his factory equipment and manuals.


2) Without the plate (I'm assuming this is the arm that swings?) what should I do?
Unless someone is willing to sell you one from Classifieds, you'll have to make your own. Note that the lock cylinder shaft has a square section that drives the plate. If you look closely at the external latch handle inside the hatch, you'll see a slot for the plate to fit into when the handle is locked.
1) Yes, it's only on the driver's side door
 

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