1971 1F Engine-Air Cleaner Mounting

[bbrinkley007]

My 71 FJ40 has the air filter mounted using one of the 2 holes on the bracket attached to a homemade bracket. From what I can find searching it appears it is supposed to be mounted using the front two head bolts. If that is correct, how safe is it for me to take just those two bolts off and mount it properly? I know that typically head bolts are tightened in a specific order. But considering I’m not breaking the seal in the head, is this a safe operation? The homemade bracket isn’t very sturdy and not needed if it’s mounted correctly. (For those who might wonder why I’m bothering with something that isn’t really causing a problem). I have a torque wrench so I can torque back to the 83-98 ft/lbs unless there is something else in that regard I should be aware of. Thanks for any advice.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Before you do it cut a notch in the mount so you can easily get a socket on the manifold nut underneath. I posted a pic of the notch years ago) Cold engine, torque those bolts by 1/3 - swat them with a hammer, go to 2/3 R/R. Do the full sequence in order at say 95 (or 100 if needed).

 

[bbrinkley007]

Before you do it cut a notch in the mount so you can easily get a socket on the manifold nut underneath. I posted a pic of the notch years ago) Cold engine, torque those bolts by 1/3 - swat them with a hammer, go to 2/3 R/R. Do the full sequence in order at say 95 (or 100 if needed).

Just so I make sure I understand your recommendation, even though I am only taking the front left 2 bolts out of the head to mount the air cleaner bracket, you are saying I should retorque ALL head bolts in the recommended pattern back to 95/100 ft/lbs? (After modifying bracket for manifold nut).

Also, what is R/R? Rinse/repeat?

Thanks for the clarification/verification.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Yes rinse/repeat. I did those 2 bolts years ago. Bring the torque up evenly (thus by 1/3 with percussion therapy), and then make sure they are all torgue them same.
I'll go get a pic of the notch when it gets light out.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Both my torque wrenches are 1/2" drive. I use a reducer and a short extension to get a 3/8 drive socket on the hidden nut. The notch makes it a much easier task - plus I have longer studs to make up for custom stepped washers and 2 man-a-fre header gaskets.

 

[Living in the Past]

My 71 FJ40 has the air filter mounted using one of the 2 holes on the bracket attached to a homemade bracket. From what I can find searching it appears it is supposed to be mounted using the front two head bolts. If that is correct, how safe is it for me to take just those two bolts off and mount it properly? I know that typically head bolts are tightened in a specific order. But considering I’m not breaking the seal in the head, is this a safe operation? The homemade bracket isn’t very sturdy and not needed if it’s mounted correctly. (For those who might wonder why I’m bothering with something that isn’t really causing a problem). I have a torque wrench so I can torque back to the 83-98 ft/lbs unless there is something else in that regard I should be aware of. Thanks for any advice.

Not sure I understand what you are saying. If only one bolt is on the bracket to the cylinder head it should be possible to add the missing head bolt. There are no nuts where the head mounts to the block. The early aire cleaners up to some time in 1963 used the second and third bolts on the left side. As I remember the spacing of the bolts was different between one and two bolt than two and three bolts. The top cover of the early ones was a shorter distance from the main air cleaner housing and the carburator. That was because the FJ25 and part of the 1961 FJ40 had an inlet on the apron with a hose connecting to the air cleaner inlet.

 

[bbrinkley007]

Not sure I understand what you are saying. If only one bolt is on the bracket to the cylinder head it should be possible to add the missing head bolt. There are no nuts where the head mounts to the block. The early aire cleaners up to some time in 1963 used the second and third bolts on the left side. As I remember the spacing of the bolts was different between one and two bolt than two and three bolts. The top cover of the early ones was a shorter distance from the main air cleaner housing and the carburator. That was because the FJ25 and part of the 1961 FJ40 had an inlet on the apron with a hose connecting to the air cleaner inlet.

I realize my original description probably left much to be desired, especially without any photos. Maybe this will help. The first image is how the air filter was mounted when I got this FJ. The second shows the homemade bracket mounted to one of the exhaust manifold bolts. My question was whether the filter was originally mounted to the engine block using the head bolts, and if so, could I just take them out and mount the air cleaner as designed, and if I should take special care in re-torquing all head bolts, or just the two I removed and replaced.

.

If you have any wisdom to share as to whether I should or shouldn't attempt this unnecessary task (it does work as it is), please do.

Thanks

 

[65swb45]

Most likely whoever made that was duly concerned about the risk of breaching the head gasket by removing the two head bolts. That is always a possibility.

As was posted recently, you can lessen the chance of a breach by draining the cooling system before you start.

FWIW, when customers have asked me to perform this procedure on their vehicles, I have a head gasket waiver they must sign first. I've never actually had one breach here. But the very first time I had to do it on my own truck, over 35 years ago, I saw coolant, panicked, and replaced the gasket in order to be sure.

 

[charliemeyer007]

The air cleaner can and filter weighs a fair amount - hanging on one bolt isn't very secure. Mr T used 2 big bolts for a reason.

I would replace the BUBBA bracket. Order a new factory head and manifold gasket to have on hand if something goes south, so you are waiting on parts. Some day you will need then anyway if not for this project. I would loosen the two bolts. Retorque them in 1/3 and finally do them all in proper sequence at 100%.

 

[Its me shaneus]

I am going to count myself lucky. Have removed and replaced those two head bolts on at least two engines without issue. Never re torqued all the others either.

Not a recommendation ! Dumb luck, and I wondered at the time if potential issue. But this is first time seeing it written about as a concern.

 

[South Texas 97]

This is valuable information - I was wondering how to do this myself - seems like using a couple of the Exhaust/Intake port studs and make up a bracket is a reasonable way to go if I don't use the Head Bolts.
Yes, the Air Filter Case is pretty heavy - so needs to be well supported.
Thanks!

 

[65swb45]

This is valuable information - I was wondering how to do this myself - seems like using a couple of the Exhaust/Intake port studs and make up a bracket is a reasonable way to go if I don't use the Head Bolts.
Yes, the Air Filter Case is pretty heavy - so needs to be well supported.
Thanks!

While I definitely do not condone it, I have seen a couple of cases where POs have rotated the can 180 degrees and mounted the bracket to the fender. In those cases, they were all done to clear poorly designed power steering pump mounts.

 

[Pighead]

In those cases, they were all done to clear poorly designed power steering pump mounts.

If only I could find a well-designed power steering pump mount to fit my vehicle. I have never been satisfied with what I have.