IH 1969 Loadstar 1700 Shop Truck Build

[aztoyman]

If you don't want to have to lift over a permanent bottom lip, you can have a hinged side plate/rail that folds down as needed. Make it as tall as you want. Fold it back up and secure it to retain items on the shelf.

 

[AirheadNut]

Wasn't feeling very motivated this afternoon so I decided to knock out an easy task and wire in the rest of the lights. I moved the switch for the forward section of lights to the end of the new shelves instead of under the bench where it had been, then wired up two lights over the bench and one over the sheet metal brake. Really happy with how much light there is now and with everything on the total current draw is just under 6A.

There's going to be a false panel at the outside end of the lowest shelf to house the wiring and switches for the lights, which will be installed in holes cut in the OSB end cap. I'll also put the remote screen for the inverter/charger there. Wago 221-series for the win, they're so nice to work with and the 221-500 Mounting Carrier works great to make a sort of busbar in these situations.

 

[AirheadNut]

The guy that outfits our jobsite trailers basically installs all the shelves upside down so there is a lip that keeps thing from sliding off.
Some have mesh doors that lock, depending on who needs to be in them.
He has also standardized on containers.

For example all your hardware in smaller containers would live together in one larger tub, but in their separate containers in the tub.

Then he uses tubs and bungee cords to hold them in.

I thought I had a couple pics to share, but cannot find them.

You could weld a 1" tall 12 ga "kick plate" on the outside of the sq tube with it above shelf level so you must lift every box up 1" before pulling it out. Then weld chain links on edge every 12" along the face so you can make "X"s with bungee cords in front of every box.

Look inside campers and travel trailers at how everything has a latch, door, or hook so everything stays attached, so during travel, it reduces the chance of things launching out of their designated areas.

We have hooks on the wall that hang welding cables, drop cords, safety harnesses. Some of these stick out 12" with a 3" turn up on the end so they may swing, but not fall off.

I thought about putting the OSB shelves flush with the bottom of the steel tubing rather than the top, but didn't want to lose 2" of a 12" deep shelf. I doubt a 1/2" lip would have been sufficient, either.

Really like the idea of larger containers for all the small stuff, and bungees would be a really quick and easy way to hold them in place. Chain links are a great idea for attachment points. Kind of similar to what I did on the larger shelves opposite, sans bungees. These shelves have about a 1" lip, plenty for keeping the tubs in.

If you don't want to have to lift over a permanent bottom lip, you can have a hinged side plate/rail that folds down as needed. Make it as tall as you want. Fold it back up and secure it to retain items on the shelf.

I'm thinking something removable is probably the best option, the truck rarely moves (at least for now) so I don't need something permanent. The actual solution may vary shelf by shelf depending on what I end up storing on them, some may get a simple bungee and some may have a panel or door that can be removed when not in use. It would be pretty easy to install rivet nuts in the tubing to attach a panel across the open shelf, or perhaps use a quarter turn fastener.

 

[AirheadNut]

A little chilly out there! I was going to do some TIG welding practice but didn't feel like working with the door open this evening. Fired up the trusty 345 instead, I like to start it up every so often and keep everything charged and in working order.

 

[AirheadNut]

Not much happening with the truck lately, I've been more busy working in it than on it. Picked up a cheap 100W solar panel and a charge controller, hoping to get them all wired up soon. It's not a huge capacity but should help keep the batteries topped up without me having to run the generator all the time.

I made up a custom length CAT5 cable and mounted the inverter display in the end of the shelf next to the light switch. The solar charge controller will mount next to it.

 

[AirheadNut]

Had a roll of duplex 10ga wire left over from work, I decided to use that for the solar cable. Hopefully I'll be able to find some time this weekend to climb up on the roof and mount the panel.

 

[AirheadNut]

Got the solar panel installed on the roof of the truck. I used some aluminum extrusion to mount the panel and sheet metal screws to fasten it to the roof skin. Hopefully silicone caulk around the screws will prevent any leaks.

Got the charge controller mounted and wired in but it immediately triggered an error code for load short, even though there is no load attached. Still trying to figure out what's going on there, looks like I might have to try warrantying it. At least it is charging the batteries, even on an overcast day like today.

 

[AirheadNut]

The charge controller seems to have sorted itself out overnight, there was no error when I checked this morning and the USB load output was working properly. Battery voltage increased from 12.1V to 13v over the course of the day.

 

[BILT4ME]

I always look forward to your updates.

I'm fascinated by someone else that likes the old IH stuff!