1440 lathe upgrades

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Thanks Sarge,

The tap wrench is made by irwin. One benefit is you can pull the T handle and use a 3/8" drive for a deeper reach. Plus it hold a small tap securely. Haha. Got the lathe done today. She runs really nice. I need to turn a spider for the spindle bore and imbed some magnets for the tach to work.
Very happy with the end build and I learned a ton!
 
Some updates and photos.

The repeatability of the Hall sensor is impressive. Once set, I ran ten test passes to verify accuracy. Set the DRO to zero on the first auto stop and six out of ten passes with .00000, the most variance I got was 3 tenths ( X).
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The overall machine powered up.
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A lap top was used to program VFD and run "auto tune". The VFD can be programed using the up/down arrows but a lap top is more efficient as you can see the entire groups of commands.
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A shot of the enclosure under power.
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Features of the new system,
Soft start ramp up, Dynamic braking (two settings via micro toggle switch), chuck stops in under 1.5 seconds or 3-5 seconds. Bypass button for Hall sensor (for threading without disengaging 1/2 nut) to run machine in reverse. Lighted Jog,E-stop,Flood pump, tachometer, Variable speed Pot, two speed motor function and of course the Auto stop Hall sensor incorporated into the carriage stop with micrometer adjustment.

Thanks for viewing
 
Not directly related to the lathe but worth posting.

Surge/ lightning protection for the house and shop. This zone protection devise is used in industrial setting when critical electrical equipment requires protection from power surges. Its made by Cooper, it is the ZoneDefender Pro 120/240V single phase 80Kva with a strike counter. The unit connects to the main power supply panel and was fairly straight forward install requiring a 60 amp breaker (G,N, L1,L2). I got a smoking deal on it and installed it with no problems. The strike counter is also backlit for easy night viewing.
My 400 amp panel is on the north exposure and is a idea location with no direct sun light on unit.

During the monsoon season we experience a ton of lighting and power surges and with under ground utilities this made perfect sense to protect "my zone". Very well built unit and enclosure rated for indoor/outdoor application. Hopefully someone can use this information.
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AC power is way dirtier than most folks know. I have a battery back system for main computer in office that tells on TEP overtime I lose power of gets too low.

Back on the Lathe, I built this spider yesterday after shift. It mounts to the spindle opposite the chuck, it not only supports longer stock but has imbedded earth magnets for the tachometer pick-up. I started out with 2.5" CR stock cut to 3.250". Faced both ends for a overall length of 3.200"
Step drilled to 1.125" and bored to ID of spindle. Secondary bore was to OD of spindle X 1.875". Chucked up to rotary and drilled/taped four 5/16"-24 holes 90* apart for the four 5/16"-24 set screws and 45* from 0 for two stacked earth magnets for the tach. Flipped and indexed four four 3/8"-24 for the spider bolts.
 
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More spider shots.
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The four 3/8"-24 cap screws will be modified with brass or bronze tips to prevent marring commonly found on steady rest/follow rest.
The Tachometer pick up will be mounted to a bracket I'll build tomorrow after shift work.
 
That's an excellent idea for supporting the back side of long work - I need to visit the back side of my Enco and see if that's possible . Would sure help in making cuts on long shafts and my pass-through is 1-1/8" as well . Anyone that owns a mill and doesn't have a horizontal/vertical index is sure missing out - trying to talk my buddy into getting himself set up with one since I'm mill-less here .
Sarge
 
Sarge,

The spider serves both in supporting longer stock (on occasion) and a means for tach pick up (full time). I built a bracket for the pick up probe yesterday and spent the rest of a long day cleaning up from the project. I did order a new motor that is VFD ready with encoder. A beast of a unit at 97 pounds. In playing with the lathe, I found the older Chinese motor has some Hz frequencies it doesn't like resulting in cogging etc. The motor I found on eBay :LINCOLN 3 HP MOTOR 230/460 VOLT 1755 RPM FRAM 184TC MODEL# AN ANN4S3TC61Q15L Its MSRP is around 4K so at $403.32 with shipping is a steal. I will order a new (smaller) drive pulley and replace the drive belts with cogged type as this type of belt wraps better around pulley with less chance of slippage.

Played with the speeds yesterday and was amazed the tach could reliably pick up 6.7 RPM. Unusual as I'm using a magnetic type system. Usually a optical type is required for low PRM detection. I did engineer the brakes to be perfectly perpendicular to the spider and centered to the small magnet with plenty of vertical adjustment. I currently have about 1/16" air gap, so the time spent building the brakes payed off. No new mounting hole required since the brakes shares the same stud used to secure the end cover.

The rotary table is a handy piece to have. The one I used was borrowed from a friend but its on my list to buy. They aren't cheap but open new capabilities to the milling operations as you know.

The new motor will be the "icing on the cake" and drove the total price of the build up a bit. I will have even more speed options with Vector sensing for a more reliable machine. Your Enco machine should be able to take a spider.
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Ever had to change out or repair the travel gear/track for the carriage ? The gear on the bed side of my carriage drive is severely worn - well over half a revolution on the travel handle . From using a mirror , looks as though that gear may be reversible - only half of it is engaging the gear track on the bed . If I can get that whole part torn down far enough I can build that gear back up with the Tig and match the teeth back into a correct pattern - done that a lot here with tractor parts lately , lol . The cross slide's pin or whatever holds it to the screw rod is also badly worn - this thing won't hold any tolerance anywhere and the carriage can move on it's own pretty easily . As I said , it's mostly for quick fab shop work and making parts to repair things , nothing of high tolerance but it's sloppiness is becoming a problem . Anything like doing an internal bore cut is a no-no....
Sarge
 
Sarge,
I've tried to attach a file of parts break down but keep getting an error message from this site. Same BS I encounter 50% of the time when posting photos. PM me you email address and I will try yo send you the file that way. Getting that issue repaired will be a game changer for your lathe. Enco still has many parts available as well as IPB's (illustrated parts breakdown) for many older laths.
 
Wow , nice drawing . I have the one for the Enco - they were able to find a copy but it's quality is crap , can't read most of it . They also warned that no real parts are available - anything broken or worn has to be made or repaired as-is . I'll probably tear into it soon , at least fix these two issues so it can track decent and not be such a pain to use . Nothing else , I do have a tig and a buddy that's a machinist a few blocks away . He's the one with the mill , and a huge 12' lathe in his shop .
Sarge
 
New motor came in and got it installed,set perimeters and ran "auto tune" via lap top. Programed VFD and she runs so smooth with Zero cogging or harmonics. Extremely happy with the combination. The speed range is ten fold with each gear selection with the potentiometer. A new end motor cover was made from scrap alum diamond plate as the new motor shaft protrudes about 3/16". An adaptor plate would have been required if motor was pushed in further, but the added hight might have been an issue. The encoder was removed for lathe application.
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Stuffing in 97 pounds of motor was no fun but it fit.
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finished the spider tips made from bronze.
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The finished bronze tipped spider and the new end cover/vent to finish up the upgrades on the lathe.
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Thanks for looking.
 
Hi firestoper, quick hijack, I bought a 5hp lathe wired in star and wish to run it from a single phase supply (240v) converted to three phase through a VFD. Can you give me the specs on your VFD and and any links you may have for it? Thanks in advance mate, love your setup.
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Hi, so I'm no expert but your motor looks to be high voltage only and I don't believe a VFD can convert incoming 240VAC single Ph and make 415 V.
Most motors can be wired high or low voltage (YY/Delta) but from the data plate info it only shows 415VAC. I use Hitachi VFD's due to their quality and are true sensor-less vector unlike the cheaper VFD's. The one I used on the lathe is WJ200-037LF200 but would not work on your application as I have 3 ph incoming power (RPC) and a 3 HP motor. Plenty of information on Hitachi web site or call Automation Direct, But VFD's need to be matched for application. Where are you located?

From he looks of the face plate, that machine has little use/hours. Looks nice and rigid and a fresh coat of paint would make a new machine of her.
 
Thanks for reply firestopper, lathe came from a local college that trains apprentices, the machine has done almost no work and is very tight. Not too worried about motor as I will just buy a 3 phase one that is suitable for a single phase to three phase VFD if I have to.

I am aiming to have a setup exactly like yours with the DRO, but have been tossing up whether to use a rotary phase changer or one like yours.

I did look briefly at the Hitachi units and liked the look, will have a closer inspection now that you mention their quality.

I live in Australia with a 32amp supply of 240v single phase to my small workshop, after lighting and a fridge etc I am left with 25 amps, so am hoping a VFD will be able to cope with any start up surges.

I am ok with single phase stuff, but am still learning the basics of three phase wiring and VFD technology, luckily there are guys like you out there providing inspiration for beginners like me.

Subscribed and looking forward to more updates on your shop, that rpm setup looks like a great idea btw.
 
I actually run all nine machines from a RPC. Its very quiet and was the best solution for operating multiple machines. I use a 7.5 hp idler motor for the RPC system and have no issues. I added VFD's to the Plate roller and the lathe as I wanted more control and features. The Hitachi VFD's Im running are 240 3ph in.
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If you decide to go RPC, just remember the idler motor should be of higher HP rating than the largest machine it powering. I ran all 3ph in conduit to machines including ceiling drops. The RPC can run all the machines at once as each machine that is turned on becomes a RPC for the next.
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I chose to use cord caps so no fancy disconnects on each machine (except on the new lathe build). Plenty of information on RPC systems. I built my first system 15 years ago but with the new shop I found it much more cost effective to purchase the RPC control box from Phase Craft on eBay. The guy will build your control box based on your motor specs. to include balancing capacitors. HINT! the better the quality of Idler motor the quieter the system will be. Again, my system is ultra quiet and the motor is mounted to the wall frame with isolators to prevent resonance (ask me how I know). If your only running machining equipment Lathe and Mill, then a VFD on each would be my recommendation as you will really like the speed control options and other control options they provide.
FWIW, I have $350 in the RPC system (not including conduit,plugs receptacles and wiring) so for multiple fabrication equipment thats the way to go. The new lathe system ran $2k in parts but the VFD was only $388.00 (USD).

I had a ton of help with the lathe system from an experienced friend, so I'm no expert but I have a firm grasp on each piece of machinery operating controls as I an the one that maintains and repairs them.

That is a real nice lathe you have.

The finished product!
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