14 Bolt and links on the truggy?

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Your 60's rear frame (and body) is too wide to do rear steer.

Bypass the air shocks, you'll be happier with coilovers.

FOA's are the most cost effective.
 
CruisinFJ60 said:
I have considered rear steer... but wouldn't making the 14b a steer axle be stronger than running a 60 upside down?
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the ring and pinion would be stronger but the rest of the conversion pretty much just uses D60 parts.....and you wouldn't be running the 60 upside down either- if you had a driver side drop in the front it would be passenger side in the rear
 
Mace said:
Your 60's rear frame (and body) is too wide to do rear steer.

Bypass the air shocks, you'll be happier with coilovers.

FOA's are the most cost effective.
Click to expand...


figured if he would go to the trouble of rear steer and 4-link etc he would cut the rear frame off and tube the rear out, get a fuel cell and clearance the fenders

some big diameter air shocks might not be too bad if you still have leafs on the front to help with the body roll
 
mookie said:
shaved the bottom bolt off? how does the cover seal at the bottom now? sounds interesting, i haven't heard of anyone shaving one that much before
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I lost the bottom 3 bolts on my shave job. I have to seal it up about every 4 wheeling trips. But it just barely leaks at that point.

A thick cover makes the bolts less important.
 
Mace said:
Your 60's rear frame (and body) is too wide to do rear steer.

Bypass the air shocks, you'll be happier with coilovers.

FOA's are the most cost effective.
Click to expand...

Its to wide now :lol: It gets in the way of my tires all day long, I know more cutting (A LOT more) would be needed for rear steer. them coil overs are pricy! but would work a whole lot better than some basic coils. I think if i did that it would also require me to do some heavy cutting. I dont know how much truck will be left over the next years but I like where this is headed. :steer:

mookie said:
the ring and pinion would be stronger but the rest of the conversion pretty much just uses D60 parts.....and you wouldn't be running the 60 upside down either- if you had a driver side drop in the front it would be passenger side in the rear
Click to expand...

I think I was thinking in my head that it would be running on the coast side of the gear set and for some reason typed it would be upside down. I dunno, but how hard is that on gears to run on the coast side constantly?

mookie said:
figured if he would go to the trouble of rear steer and 4-link etc he would cut the rear frame off and tube the rear out, get a fuel cell and clearance the fenders

some big diameter air shocks might not be too bad if you still have leafs on the front to help with the body roll
Click to expand...

I cant clearance the rear anymore with out cutting into the doors and Im not sure how I want to go about that just yet but I do for sure want to cut another inch or two out for some added flex even just how it sits now (less a broken axle). and no fuel cell for me Im 100% propane already. :grinpimp:

I guess I should figure out how I am gonna clearance and or dove tail the rear and still keep a back seat and a place for my 2 pane tanks and bee.. er uh... water and soda cooler. :rolleyes:
 
Why did you buy a bodied rig when a buggy seems to be what you wanted?
 
Mace said:
Why did you buy a bodied rig when a buggy seems to be what you wanted?
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Its a process, and it will be several years before I am even close to considering rear steer and a rear dove tail. I would however like to clearance the rest of the rear fenders / doors to better fit the meats I have on there now.

but to better more directly answer your question... I like a bodied rig and knew changes would happen over time and as they come I will address them to do what I want / need to do to make things work. :meh:

right now my focus is on the rear end issues at hand. I love the coilover idea but I know it will require some serious clearancing to take advantage of the available flex. again all things Ill tackle and figure out along the way.

I must be able to maintain 2 riders in the back (it is a wagon) and my cooler and recovery gear bag and small tool bag and 2 propane tanks. those are my primary goals. Ill keep as much body as I can along the way and skin what I feel would look better with skin (like my front fenders)

I still have my Fiona as a full bodied rig and it will stay that way and double as street legal and trail rig as originally intended when I started building it. The truggy will be whatever it turns into.
 
CruisinFJ60 said:
I guess I should figure out how I am gonna clearance and or dove tail the rear and still keep a back seat and a place for my 2 pane tanks and bee.. er uh... water and soda cooler. :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

cut the frame off just past the doors or wherever and then run tube off of it right up under the floorboard out to your bumper.....and tie it into your cage somehow.....you'll probably need to make shock hoops off of it that stick up through your bed too
 
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