100 series land cruiser 4 speed vs mfd

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Thanks for all the feedback guys. Seems like it's a split decision lol. Also, is the MFD problem something that will eventually happen given time or just random?

Bob


I've been fighting MFD issues on my '04 LC and they suck. It's a gut wrenching feeling when the screen freezes especially knowing the price tag for new unit (~$3500 new, reman'd ~$1800). Mine has broken 3 times. Fixed for $300, $300 and recently $100. This last time the repair guy tried a new technique and replaced a few other things outside of the common pin 60 failure point. 3 months in on the new repair and no issues so far.

Keep in mind, from everything I've seen this is isolated to 2004 MFDs. When it does go out, you can still control Radio, CD etc via buttons, you just can't see what's happening on the screen. I also think it stays in last climate setting, so if it fails and it was on AUTO then not a big deal either. You can't engage front defrost for example though.

In my mind, the 2005 is the best LC (not an LX due to AHC). No MFD issues, 5 spd, 4 pin diff, no VVTi. All of those things are directly tied to getting you home safely, the MFD while annoying is minor in the grand scheme of things.
 
I have on of each and both have benefits. I would buy the best truck you can afford. Doesn't matter which bracket it falls in. You will not be disappointed.
 
I've been fighting MFD issues on my '04 LC and they suck. It's a gut wrenching feeling when the screen freezes especially knowing the price tag for new unit (~$3500 new, reman'd ~$1800). Mine has broken 3 times. Fixed for $300, $300 and recently $100. This last time the repair guy tried a new technique and replaced a few other things outside of the common pin 60 failure point. 3 months in on the new repair and no issues so far.

Keep in mind, from everything I've seen this is isolated to 2004 MFDs. When it does go out, you can still control Radio, CD etc via buttons, you just can't see what's happening on the screen. I also think it stays in last climate setting, so if it fails and it was on AUTO then not a big deal either. You can't engage front defrost for example though.

In my mind, the 2005 is the best LC (not an LX due to AHC). No MFD issues, 5 spd, 4 pin diff, no VVTi. All of those things are directly tied to getting you home safely, the MFD while annoying is minor in the grand scheme of things.

Who would you recommend for a MFD fix? I have a 2004 and have been keeping an eye out for good repair references in the event my fails.
 
'03 introduced side and curtain airbags, and a much improved steering rack. '04 added integrated phone Bluetooth. I have both a 2000 and a 2004. Both are running 295/75/16 tires. The 2004 rocks it all over the 2000 every time you push the gas. It tows better, too. The dash is also much easier to read at night. I've always found the 2000 dash very dim. If you have kids, LATCH anchors started in '01 or '02. Both are well over 200k miles with no tranny or MFD issues. My wife DD's the '04. We have added a USA-SPEC Sirius/XM and aux unit to it. The ONLY thing I prefer about the 2000 is the climate control knobs v buttons. What a first-world problem, huh? I guess what I'm getting at is there's way more to the equation than small probability failure items...
 
I've been fighting MFD issues on my '04 LC and they suck. It's a gut wrenching feeling when the screen freezes especially knowing the price tag for new unit (~$3500 new, reman'd ~$1800). Mine has broken 3 times. Fixed for $300, $300 and recently $100. This last time the repair guy tried a new technique and replaced a few other things outside of the common pin 60 failure point. 3 months in on the new repair and no issues so far.

Keep in mind, from everything I've seen this is isolated to 2004 MFDs. When it does go out, you can still control Radio, CD etc via buttons, you just can't see what's happening on the screen. I also think it stays in last climate setting, so if it fails and it was on AUTO then not a big deal either. You can't engage front defrost for example though.

In my mind, the 2005 is the best LC (not an LX due to AHC). No MFD issues, 5 spd, 4 pin diff, no VVTi. All of those things are directly tied to getting you home safely, the MFD while annoying is minor in the grand scheme of things.

I like my 2005 with the 2" OME lift and rock sliders. Plus I turned my screen off on my MFD, since I always keep my temperature control on auto, 72 degrees. I have a GPS when I need a nav unit or my IPhone. I agree 2005 with OME is the best ride.
 
get a 2006 and tear out the MFD, rewire with conventional controls. Piece of cake.

And document the process, part numbers & sources extensively, so you can post a "how to" on mud :)
 
All of the wire outs are right in the FSM nothing magic. You can order the HVAC parts right form toyota USA. the only missing part not readily available is the eyebrow display. There are owners doing this right now, on 'mud.

Front Bezel 88092-60110
Bd Sub Assy 88014-60190
Amp A/C 88650-60821
Housing 88912-60150
 
All of the wire outs are right in the FSM nothing magic. You can order the HVAC parts right form toyota USA. the only missing part not readily available is the eyebrow display. There are owners doing this right now, on 'mud.

Front Bezel 88092-60110
Bd Sub Assy 88014-60190
Amp A/C 88650-60821
Housing 88912-60150

I thought I remembered the non-nav wiring harness being crazy expensive and unlikely to find the harness in a US salvage yard (except maybe in HI). I also understood the alternative of buying the connectors and either building your own equivalent to the wiring harness or adapters stubs from Nav to non-nav was not feasible due to cost and/or availability of the connectors. The eyebrow pretty much unavailable (new) in the parts catalog and not very likely to find one in the US in a salvage yard.

If this was such a simple and economical task, for the 03+, remind me again what stalled your conversion kit project?
 
Excuse my ignorance, wtf is MFD? You can always get a pre 2k hundy and either throw in a 4 pinion diff from a later hundy or just get an ARB... You'd be 3x locked.....
 
This is all really good info. Now just need to find a car for sale at a reasonable price. Seems to be pretty slim pickings on 2003-06 within a 1000 mile radius of San Diego. Any recommendations where to look other than craigslist?
 
This is all really good info. Now just need to find a car for sale at a reasonable price. Seems to be pretty slim pickings on 2003+ within a 1000 mile radius of San Diego. Any recommendations where to look other than craigslist?

Mud Classifieds?
eBay?
searchtempest?
traderonline?
autotempest?
carfax?
 
FWIW, should you ever decide to increase tire size: my 2000 trans never had any issues (even to ~190K when I sold it) with stock size rubber but after I installed 35" tires it was a bit doggy. I now have an "equivalent" 2003 & recently replaced the 275 Michelins with 35" Toyo's and the combination of slightly more HP + 1 more point in the shift schedule is noticeably better for driving (smoother, better accel) & towing.

Regarding infotainment, there are far more aftermarket upgrade options pre-2002, yet *very* limited source & feature upgrades for 2002-2003.. despite this I personally like the 2003 because it also has several other model-year improvements, and I have confidence an infotainment solution will materialize
Sorry to throw this in there & *muddy* the water :rimshot:
 
This is all really good info. Now just need to find a car for sale at a reasonable price. Seems to be pretty slim pickings on 2003-06 within a 1000 mile radius of San Diego. Any recommendations where to look other than craigslist?
2003 Land Cruiser for sale
 
This is all really good info. Now just need to find a car for sale at a reasonable price. Seems to be pretty slim pickings on 2003-06 within a 1000 mile radius of San Diego. Any recommendations where to look other than craigslist?

I'm in San Diego myself. I looked for about 3 months ish and was willing to fly all over for a rust free rig. I thought it was going to take forever but ended up finding one in Del Mar 15 miles away and called on it within 20 mins of it being posted on Craigslist. PM me and I'll give you some tips.
 
Mud Classifieds?
eBay?
searchtempest?
traderonline?
autotempest?
carfax?
Lol yes I have used all of them. I set up an RSS reader too. I didn't know if there were any other less obvious and more fruitful places.
 
I thought I remembered the non-nav wiring harness being crazy expensive and unlikely to find the harness in a US salvage yard (except maybe in HI). I also understood the alternative of buying the connectors and either building your own equivalent to the wiring harness or adapters stubs from Nav to non-nav was not feasible due to cost and/or availability of the connectors. The eyebrow pretty much unavailable (new) in the parts catalog and not very likely to find one in the US in a salvage yard.

If this was such a simple and economical task, for the 03+, remind me again what stalled your conversion kit project?

The wiring was never the challenge. It was producing an adapter to mate both sides of NAV to non-nav at a small volume at reasonable economics and limiting my liability if there was a problem. For a one off I would repin the existing connectors. Toyota has the correct male connectors as repair parts for the non-nav HVAC controller. The part numbers are in the FSM.
 
Who would you recommend for a MFD fix? I have a 2004 and have been keeping an eye out for good repair references in the event my fails.

Prius hybrids sales and service Scottsburg Indiana

Owner's name is Steve. They are good to work with. They are a huge Prius repair / recovery / restore shop but the MFD is the same as the LC/LX which means they repair them often. As Steve told me, the internet caught hold of some guys post about the 'pin 60' cracked solder joint and that information spread like crazy but was misleading. His shop even bought into it and as these MFDs came in they reflowed the solder and life was good for a short while. Well that fix by itself seemed to only mask the issue for short period. Within the last year they also started replacing some other components on the board and he said that is a much more reliable fix. I have the revised repair and after about 120 days it's been 100% reliable. Time will tell honestly. If it breaks again I hate to say it but will probably have to buy a reman'd unit.
 

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