Currently own (1) '03 LC; and (2) '16 LC. I'm looking for another truck for one of my kids. I've found a few LCs and LXs with between 140-170k miles. What sorts of issues (other than rust and timing belts) should I be concerned about as I consider either an LC or an LX like these? One thing that concerns me the AHC. Anything else to consider? Thanks so much.
100-Series Issues - buying advice (1 Viewer)
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ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
I found this overview helpful
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Search "buying advice", titles only, 100 section only, lots of threads.
At around 175k on the 100 series, just about everything will need to be replaced. That's about the life of the OEM parts.
If you don't wrench yourself, an 100 series is going to get very expensive and there are far better options for your kid.
At that mileage,
-every rubber bit
-every suspension bit
-alternator
-ac compressor
-cooling system + radiator
-starter
-brake booster issue
-belt drive
-fuel pump
-cv/cv boots
-wheel bearings
-fan pulley
-fan clutch
I can go on
If you don't wrench yourself, an 100 series is going to get very expensive and there are far better options for your kid.
At that mileage,
-every rubber bit
-every suspension bit
-alternator
-ac compressor
-cooling system + radiator
-starter
-brake booster issue
-belt drive
-fuel pump
-cv/cv boots
-wheel bearings
-fan pulley
-fan clutch
I can go on
Maybe you should read more of the comments in YouTube videos, it only needs oil changes
Maybe you should read more of the comments in YouTube videos, it only needs oil changes
I bought mine with 215k and the only thing I did was oil change and timing belt. The rest are mostly upgrades and mod.
Oh, I don't know. Mine has 259k on it now and, other than the normal routine maintenanace, I've only needed to do one CV boot replacement and replace the heater hose "T"'s. It's been very reliable.
So you're on original alternator, fuel pump, steering rack, etc except for heater tees and CVs?
Lol how?
Sorry if that bothers you, but you just drive it.
To the OP: looking at a vehicle that is 20-ish years old, you will find worn out parts. Independent of the mileage on the vehicle, rubber gets old with time.
An example... I just tried to flush my power steering fluid today. I ended up replacing both rubber lines because the rubber snapped in half only 15-20° of deflection. Things get old. You're looking at a 13 year old vehicle at best. Keep in mind that no matter the vision of being legendary and bulletproof - rubber gets old and supporting system begin to require attention... Just keep some money set aside for maintenance because it isn't just oil changes if you plan to keep your 100 on the road with all the accessories working properly.
An example... I just tried to flush my power steering fluid today. I ended up replacing both rubber lines because the rubber snapped in half only 15-20° of deflection. Things get old. You're looking at a 13 year old vehicle at best. Keep in mind that no matter the vision of being legendary and bulletproof - rubber gets old and supporting system begin to require attention... Just keep some money set aside for maintenance because it isn't just oil changes if you plan to keep your 100 on the road with all the accessories working properly.
I'm also a little shocked, but all these items go out at different times. The "just drive it" crowd will eventually get to the point that they are replacing everything or it gets sold as an over priced nightmare to someone who needs to do all of those things. It's just a different way of going about it.
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I sold my 99 at 280k. Damn reliable car. Very few failures in its lifetime.
Starter was still good.
Rubber was hit or miss. Maybe 50% were worn out, but a few hundred bucks replaces the worst parts (lower rear control arms and front diff bushings)
Suspension: shocks got changed at 190k, springs were all good.
Alternator died after a few deep river crossings. Not the car's fault, more mine.
AC compressor perfectly fine
Radiator replaced pro-actively with no failure at ~260k
Brake booster perfectly fine
Fuel pump perfectly fine
CVs - boots tore at 270k or so. Splines and CV joints all good.
Wheel bearings perfectly fine
Fan pulley - replaced at 260k
fan clutch - replaced at 260k
My saying with these is that mileage does not matter (or matters very, very little). Condition trumps mileage. The core of the vehicle (drivetrain, frame, electronics, wiring) is incredibly durable unless rusted or abused badly. Even the wear items last quite a while longer than typical vehicles.
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
When evaluating an AHC vehicle, bring your own copy of Techstream and cable to read pressures and be able to run an active test. Also bring a good light and inspect the lines, globes, and accumulator very carefully for rust. Be alarmed if you see anything more than minor weeping on the "shock" housing. Any fluid that makes its way to the bottom of the shock housing is a sign of a leak.
I am on original alternator, starter, just replaced fuel pump as PM, original steering rack, 1 original CV (1 replaced by PO). 06' lx 212k miles maintained at stealer ship so cal truck. Ahc intact nothing else with suspension touched.
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
More advice ... if you plan on doing rough outdoor stuff, gloss over the dents/dings/coffee stains. I just went over my rig in detail with an interested party. The lack of rust (except minor surface stuff on bolt heads etc) and in tact rubber bits for an 01 with 192k miles is apparently quite rare. Steering is tight, tranny shifts smoothly, engine purrs, AHC is perfect, and zero leaks. As a beauty queen it will fail the test, but as a robust and well-maintained platform it will go the distance. I'd trust it to do the venerable AK/YK thing with just a change of tires and PERHAPS sliders. Someone else can have the bumpers/winch/etc in the group.
At that mileage,
-every rubber bit (NO. All I replaced was front diff bushings)
-every suspension bit (NO... all original at 240K miles)
-alternator (NO still factory except fresh brush kit at 235K)
-ac compressor (NO and AC blows cold)
-cooling system + radiator (YES to prevent pink milkshake)
-starter (NO!)
-brake booster issue (NOT YET)
-belt drive (YES and common for any car except electric cars)
-fuel pump (NO! I have 3 gas powered Toys and are at 280, 215 and 240 K miles and still got OEM pumps)
-cv/cv boots (YES)
-wheel bearings (NO! LC bearings are rock solid)
-fan pulley (YES)
-fan clutch (YES)
I can go on (Let me know)
-every rubber bit (NO. All I replaced was front diff bushings)
-every suspension bit (NO... all original at 240K miles)
-alternator (NO still factory except fresh brush kit at 235K)
-ac compressor (NO and AC blows cold)
-cooling system + radiator (YES to prevent pink milkshake)
-starter (NO!)
-brake booster issue (NOT YET)
-belt drive (YES and common for any car except electric cars)
-fuel pump (NO! I have 3 gas powered Toys and are at 280, 215 and 240 K miles and still got OEM pumps)
-cv/cv boots (YES)
-wheel bearings (NO! LC bearings are rock solid)
-fan pulley (YES)
-fan clutch (YES)
I can go on (Let me know)
-amp has failed, all speaker material was done
-CV to axle seals both started weeping
-Crankshaft seal had visible leaking when I was there to change the TB
-broken ignition switch broken
-all door lock motors failed
-one window regulator
-seized handbrake cranks from dissimilar metals
-ac condenser could touch it and the fins would break in hand
-ABS sensor seals x2
-3rd tail brake light seal leaking
-muffler rusted a hole in it at 180k miles
-02 sensors
-ignition coils, one failed and the others looked beyond their lifetime, 3 others had cracks in the plastic
-steering rack from bad bushings along with puking atf into the boots.
-clockspring made an annoying squeak when turning
I got my LX at 160k miles, I'm at 192k now. So in my 32k miles of ownership, thats the list of I can think of that failed on me.
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For the sake of honest reporting after reviewing records my alternator was replaced 8 years ago.
Eek, as far as 100's go, that's sounds like an anomaly. Some seal weeping at 175k+ and 15 years old is just to be expected on any car, IMO. No biggie. The other odd stuff on yours makes me think it led a hard life for some time. Maybe you're in a rust area?
All door locks failing is highly unusual. As is a window regulator failure. And a seized handbrake. And the AC condenser. And the ABS sensors. I didn't deal with any of that from 190k-280k on my 99 and on my 06 with very complete records, no odd things like that have gone wrong in 221k. That stuff is 'normally' what makes these rigs so good long term. You generally have very little random crap failing left and right, even as they get quite well used.
When’s the next video on your ‘06.
