100 Buildup for CruiseMoab '06 (1 Viewer)

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By mods I really ment re-gearing, "to do it right". To regear the front is complex since I believe you have to swap in an 80 series differential carrier, to use the 80 series gearing options. I would not run 35s without a regear-there is plenty of power but too much extra heat in the tranny. Since there isn't much front flex, I can see why a standard lift would be enough physical space to run 35s, it just isn't much fun to have the gearing drop the tranny out of it's best functional range. For the original poster, Greg, 33s work OK with stock gears, to run 35s you need to spend a bunch of money to get the gearing correct. Not worth it until you've wheeled it a bit and figured out how it all works and what you want.

Derek-the rear bumper idea is great-swapping the accessories would be a major advantage and save you a few bucks too. I can't wait to see it take shape. Is the 80 seriss bumper done?
 
Cruiserdrew said:
Derek-the rear bumper idea is great-swapping the accessories would be a major advantage and save you a few bucks too. I can't wait to see it take shape. Is the 80 seriss bumper done?


Almost. I spoke to our friend day before yesterday, and he's getting the pieces ready for welding. He has totally redesigned it, and mine will be the first actual production bumper. Of course, the 100 bumper will be pure prototype, but I get a break on pricing in exchange for leaving my truck with him for a week or so!
 
So I'm now dying to know who the secret friend is who is building the bumper. I guess I'll wait patiently:rolleyes:

I'm looking at having a different style bumper made using 2x2 steel tube and 1.75 round tube with integrated receiver. No tire carrier or can carrier, just a high clearance bumper.
 
When did they strengthen the front differential ? If the 2001 has the weaker version then the ARB lockers front and rear could help to strengthen the diff.

Looks like you are well on your way to getting there!
 
shocker said:
After you factor in shipping costs and such, I kinda doubt whether or not you'll be able to get a rear bumper AND a locker or winch for less than $2K, if that is a rigid price point.

You could always get the locker and winch, and remove your rear bumper in camp before the runs if you are afraid of bendin' it up on the trail.

I'm figuring $1200 for rear bumper (no tire carrier) and $700-$800 for Superwinch X9 or EP9.0. Plus shipping, around $2200 probably. I've got $2K coming, if it goes over a little, it's no big deal.
 
Cruiserdrew said:
I hope I can post as a 40/60/80 guy-I've been to CM 3 times in my 80 and have an opinion on what you need and what you don't. The most important thing is body protection-so get front and rear bumpers plus sliders before anything else. After that get a rear locker, then get a winch. Get your front locker after the solid axle swap.(J/K Shotts)

Traction on the Slick Rock is so good that lockers are needed only rarely.

On the tires, stick with the 33's. Overall, you will be way ahead dollar and mod wise, and 33's on a wagon will get you on nearly every trail in Moab, especially if you don't plan on the 4+ ones. My understanding is that the 100 needs lots of mods to run 35's right-I wouldn't bother and stick with 33s. Remember many people have run Golden Spike on 33's in 80's and that's a 4+ trail. 100s would be similar, but with a bit less wheel travel.

The first year in Moab we had a contest to see who would need lockers first-we ran Fins, Poison Spider, and Elephant Hill-and never used the lockers the whole time. You might save the 35s and the mods that go with it, for year 2 at Cruise Moab.

The only time I needed a winch in Moab was to help flip dieselbigot back onto 4 wheels-so get that way last if $ are an issue.


CruiserDrew,
Thanks for all the info and real world experience! I would prefer to stay with the 33's so that re-gearing isn't an issue. I don't think I will be happy for long with 35's and stock gearing.

I'm kind of leaning the armor way a little anyways and what you say makes a lot of sense. If all of those trails can be run with 33's and no lockers (especially with TRAC) then I would definitely prefer to not tear up the stock bumpers. So, a rear bumper may be the better route.
 
calamaridog said:
The faster I destroy the bumpers the faster the wife will support the purchase of new ones:D Just pointing out the locker gets you places. But you are right, armour gets you home in one piece. Besides, it looks cool too!

I have tried this approach and it usually just gets her pissed off. She doesn't mind near as much if I spend money Up Front to protect my rig. It's when I come home all busted up that she says, "Oh great, dropping more money on truck repairs!" I guess its all in the way you look at it.
 
Greg B said:
I have tried this approach and it usually just gets her pissed off. She doesn't mind near as much if I spend money Up Front to protect my rig. It's when I come home all busted up that she says, "Oh great, dropping more money on truck repairs!" I guess its all in the way you look at it.

I would save and buy one but she'd say "let's go on vacation instead". This way, she get's tired of looking at it then says "why don't you get a new bumper, that one is looking a little beat".

The only time I can be up front about protection is rock sliders. She saw a huge dent in my buddies new truck and was like "hell no, get sliders before that happens".
 
Greg B:

1. How important is it that you keep the Cruiser looking good? I mean, would front and rear fab'd bumpers be acceptable? I ask because they sure don't look as good as regular ones (ARB, SLEE, ETC) but they'd increase your app and dep angles.

2. Is your 100 a daily driver? If so, do you ever need to tow? If so, heavy loadS?

3. With all respect for Cruiserdrew, some of the 100 information is not accurate. I'll cover this when I hear back about 1&2.

4. Don't order a rear locker until I respond back. :)
 
Sliders would be my definite first thing. The other mod that I'm not sure about, but Shott's used a lot was angle iron on his rear arms. He seemed to hit them a lot and not bending them is a major plus. It also seems to me that the wagons always seem to drag the rear bumper more than the front. The Golden Crack would be an exception to this because there the front hits first. However, I did se a J springed 80 make it through the crack without even touching the front bumper. Personally, I'd say screw the winch. It doesn't sound like you are going to hit trails hard enough that a self recovery would be mandatory. And there will be plenty of winches around. I'd go rear locker before a winch.
 
ginericfj80 said:
Sliders would be my definite first thing. The other mod that I'm not sure about, but Shott's used a lot was angle iron on his rear arms. He seemed to hit them a lot and not bending them is a major plus. It also seems to me that the wagons always seem to drag the rear bumper more than the front. The Golden Crack would be an exception to this because there the front hits first. However, I did se a J springed 80 make it through the crack without even touching the front bumper. Personally, I'd say screw the winch. It doesn't sound like you are going to hit trails hard enough that a self recovery would be mandatory. And there will be plenty of winches around. I'd go rear locker before a winch.

I actually didn't even touch my front bumper going through the Crack in the 100. I was surprised. :confused:

Actually, I never hit or banged on the rear control arms. What I kept hitting were the new control arm mount skid plates I had welded on. He made them an extra inch long so they hung down below the arm mount. I need to have him cut those down to the proper length so they don't hang me up. see how long he made them:
 
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ShottsUZJ100 said:
Greg B:

1. How important is it that you keep the Cruiser looking good? I mean, would front and rear fab'd bumpers be acceptable? I ask because they sure don't look as good as regular ones (ARB, SLEE, ETC) but they'd increase your app and dep angles.

2. Is your 100 a daily driver? If so, do you ever need to tow? If so, heavy loadS?

3. With all respect for Cruiserdrew, some of the 100 information is not accurate. I'll cover this when I hear back about 1&2.

4. Don't order a rear locker until I respond back. :)

Shotts, thanks for the help. Here are my answers to your questions:
1. I want it to stay looking good. I'm going to get the TJM T3 for the front, and the rear bumper is going to be a Slee without the tire carrier, when I get it.

2. Yes, it is a daily driver. When I get the bumper, I will be paint-matching them to the cruiser. I rarely tow anything other than a trailer to haul stuff (very sporadic use).

4. I won't be doing Phase 2 until the end of the year (January bonus $$$). I just want to start looking at what my options are so that I make a well thought out decision. Especially, if I try to find a 98-99 e-locker housing at a salvage yard. If that will bolt up with no modifications other than an electrical connection for the locker, I may start looking around some salvage yards to find one. Cause, if I can find one cheap, I may be able to do the rear bumper and the winch too. :cool:

Please share any ideas or recommendations; I am open to any new ideas as long as they are high quality and look good too. Thanks to everyone for your input so far. It is very much appreciated. :cheers: :beer:
 
ginericfj80 said:
Sliders would be my definite first thing.

Yeah, sliders are coming in the first Phase. There's no way I'm wheeling the 100 without sliders. I've been a nervous wreck even going on some of the tracks we use to get to some favorite camping spots.


ginericfj80 said:
Personally, I'd say screw the winch. It doesn't sound like you are going to hit trails hard enough that a self recovery would be mandatory. And there will be plenty of winches around. I'd go rear locker before a winch.

That seems to be the consensus so far. For Moab, I will never be alone. That is for sure! Occasionally I go out with just one vehicle, but common sense says don't take the hard line if you don't have a way home. I take it really easy when I'm the only vehicle.
 
Greg B said:
Shotts, thanks for the help. Here are my answers to your questions:
1. I want it to stay looking good. I'm going to get the TJM T3 for the front, and the rear bumper is going to be a Slee without the tire carrier, when I get it.

2. Yes, it is a daily driver. When I get the bumper, I will be paint-matching them to the cruiser. I rarely tow anything other than a trailer to haul stuff (very sporadic use).

4. I won't be doing Phase 2 until the end of the year (January bonus $$$). I just want to start looking at what my options are so that I make a well thought out decision. Especially, if I try to find a 98-99 e-locker housing at a salvage yard. If that will bolt up with no modifications other than an electrical connection for the locker, I may start looking around some salvage yards to find one. Cause, if I can find one cheap, I may be able to do the rear bumper and the winch too. :cool:

Please share any ideas or recommendations; I am open to any new ideas as long as they are high quality and look good too. Thanks to everyone for your input so far. It is very much appreciated. :cheers: :beer:

OK Greg, here's my 2-cents from the standpoint of your needs and the fact I've upsized my 100 in steps. Of course I've read about your plans so some of this is redundant. After my req's I'll clear up some other issues others brought up.

1. Sliders before anything.
2. Tires.
For you, 295x75-16. You can maintain 100% original flex if you do not go to 35-inchers because you will not need to lower your rear bumpstops and you won't be over-cranking T-bars. Considering your expected wheeling type you'll have more truck than you'll need even with the 33+ 295-series. You'll have more power and better crawl with these vs 35's.
3. Lift.
This is tricky because there are many choices. 80 springs, the 863's are a perfect fit on a 100 with a Slee bumper. I'd get those (not "J" springs) for the rear. Up front, snag OME T-bars and before install, measure your vehicle height. I'd set T-bars for a 2-inch lift over stock, no more is needed. Then add the diff drop. (Don't save $$$s here. Get the drop)
4. Front bumper (you've selected one)
You'll NEED the front bumper for the trails. You won't need the rear bumper replaced right away. They're forgiving when scraped as the hooks spare it. The spare tire rarely hits and never hung me up.

With the above gear you'll have LITTLE trouble in Moab with the trails you want to run. TRAC will take you through. I guarantee you that even on Golden Spike I'd a never needed to lock a locker. (I did because I had that bad CV joint) The place where you'll be wishing for a locker(s) would be on VERY steep and rocky loose climb and even then TRAC on the 100 is amazing though locker is easier on the trail and vehicle.

PHASE 2:

1. Rear bumper/tire carrier (you've selected)
2. Rear control arm skid plates and angle-iron reinforcement
These are the targets on an 80 and 100. They can get banged and bent. A few bucks steel and some welding and your protected.

PHASE 3:

The LAST thing I'd add (especially based on your wheeling type) is a rear or F&R locker(s). Save your money for now. Put on the other stuff. Wheel your 100 almost everywhere. IF, you get more aggressive and decide you want to run harder trails or need more traction where you've been going, THEN add the locker(s). You'll be amazed at where you will go with your TRAC.
 
Greg B said:
I know you can have lockers and TRAC, Shotts' is an 01 and its locked front and rear. The lockers, when activated, don't let the tires spin at different speeds so the TRAC never activates. (at least that's the way I understand it) I'm thinking the TRAC may not be enough to get me through all the tough spots.

My first 2 years in the 100 I never had issues. 80's would get stuck and have to lock up to proceed while I'd drive right through in the 100. Running a ton of trails in AZ I followed and led 80's that were locking F or F&R and I only had TRAC. Occassionly I'd slip a bit here and there though I always made it and OK. I think I have a video for comparison from Colorado in 2002? I see and if so post to my website. J
 
Cruiserdrew said:
Get your front locker after the solid axle swap.(J/K Shotts)

*Funny! ;p

Traction on the Slick Rock is so good that lockers are needed only rarely.

*This guy knows! :)

My understanding is that the 100 needs lots of mods to run 35's right-I wouldn't bother and stick with 33s. 100s would be similar, but with a bit less wheel travel.

*Not so on the 35's. About $50 more stuff and a couple hours labor.
*Less wheel travel with 35's vs 33's in the 100.

See comments above
 
Cruiserdrew said:
By mods I really ment re-gearing, "to do it right". To regear the front is complex since I believe you have to swap in an 80 series differential carrier, to use the 80 series gearing options. I would not run 35s without a regear-there is plenty of power but too much extra heat in the tranny. Since there isn't much front flex, I can see why a standard lift would be enough physical space to run 35s, it just isn't much fun to have the gearing drop the tranny out of it's best functional range. For the original poster, Greg, 33s work OK with stock gears, to run 35s you need to spend a bunch of money to get the gearing correct. Not worth it until you've wheeled it a bit and figured out how it all works and what you want.

Can't agree in the case of the 100. Yes in the 80. 35's kill the already week motor (I haven't re-geared my 80 yet). The 100 though is a rocket even with the 35's. The only reason I'd re-gear the 100 would be to regain crawl ratio though the 100's brakes work just fine. Since Greg will be a 33+ tire guy this isn't an issue.
 
dclee said:
Also, a local fabricator of our mutual aquaintance discussed using my truck to prototype a new rear bumper design for the 100 Series, so I may soon have a new rear bumper as well! :cool:

D,

I'm supposed to take my 100 up there the same week as you...he's going to see if the 99 is much different from your 04 then he's building me one as well...can you email me when you take your rig there so I can get mine up the same week?
 

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