01 LX 470 - AHC 'Off' - No raise or lower

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Hi All,

I've been searching through all the various posts about AHC malfunctions and I am trying to diagnose mine. I'm not the most mechanically inclined but I am trying to learn and get more hands on. I've got a new to me 01 LX 470 truck with 185k. The AHC did not function at time of purchase, it flashes 'off' while riding, will not raise or lower. OCCASIONALLY on crank it will attempt to adjust the front end.

Techstream code pulled is C1711 (Front height control RH)

Sensor readings show
FR Height: -6.3in
LR Height: -0.2in
RR height: -0.1in

Front Pressure: 0 Mpa-g
Rear Pressure: 0 Mpa-g
Accumulator Press Sensor: 0 Mpa-g

I haven't been able to find any other posts that show 0 for the pressure readings as my understanding would give you information to hopefully adjust the torsion bars and get back into spec. The passenger side of the truck also sits about 1.5 inches higher than the driver side on flat level ground. I assume this is what AHC (tries and fails) to adjust for occasionally on start. The ride is pretty rough and some noticeable chatter coming from the rear over bumps.

If anyone has any ideas or thoughts on a place to begin, I would really appreciate it!
 
Front Pressure: 0 Mpa-g
Rear Pressure: 0 Mpa-g
Accumulator Press Sensor: 0 Mpa-g

I haven't been able to find any other posts that show 0 for the pressure readings as my understanding would give you information to hopefully adjust the torsion bars and get back into spec.
Don’t worry about the zero readings. Techstream won’t show any readings until after the height is cycled.
 
Hi All,

I've been searching through all the various posts about AHC malfunctions and I am trying to diagnose mine. I'm not the most mechanically inclined but I am trying to learn and get more hands on. I've got a new to me 01 LX 470 truck with 185k. The AHC did not function at time of purchase, it flashes 'off' while riding, will not raise or lower. OCCASIONALLY on crank it will attempt to adjust the front end.

Techstream code pulled is C1711 (Front height control RH)

Sensor readings show
FR Height: -6.3in
LR Height: -0.2in
RR height: -0.1in

Front Pressure: 0 Mpa-g
Rear Pressure: 0 Mpa-g
Accumulator Press Sensor: 0 Mpa-g

I haven't been able to find any other posts that show 0 for the pressure readings as my understanding would give you information to hopefully adjust the torsion bars and get back into spec. The passenger side of the truck also sits about 1.5 inches higher than the driver side on flat level ground. I assume this is what AHC (tries and fails) to adjust for occasionally on start. The ride is pretty rough and some noticeable chatter coming from the rear over bumps.

If anyone has any ideas or thoughts on a place to begin, I would really appreciate it!

To add to the comments already offered ....

There are at least two very separate problems in the reported case:

1. The ‘lean’:

The physical 'lean' of 1.5 inches has nothing to do with AHC (unless the system has some incredibly unusual fault such as a jammed Gate Valve inside the Control Valve Assembly).

The physical lean has nothing to do with the Height Control Sensors, whatever their condition.

The physical lean will not and cannot be corrected by a new Sensor.

This physical 'lean' cannot be corrected by Techstream.

The LC100/LX470 AHC/TEMS system is a two-channel (Front and Rear) system. It can raise/lower the Front and Rear separately. The system cannot and does not adjust height settings at individual wheels separately.

The physical ‘lean’ is a mechanical problem. It is fixed only with the torsion bar adjusters per the attached extract from the FSM.

If the vehicle is stationary or steering straight ahead, then the Gate Valves in the Control Valve Assembly are open. This means that the Right Front AHC is connected to the Left Front AHC and so both are at the same pressure. Ditto Right Rear is connected to Left Rear and so both are at the same pressure. [Note: The Front and Rear AHC circuits are not hydraulically connected].

This is why it is impossible to ‘cross level’ the Front of the vehicle with the Height Control Sensors. Attempts to do so may affect the height of the vehicle and also will affect the measured Front AHC pressure – but whatever this pressure may be, it will be the same on both Front Left and Front Right, so the weight carried by the AHC system will be the same on both sides.

A ‘lean’ at the Front relates either to
  • the torsion bars carrying unequal loads (most likely and very common, especially if there have been misunderstandings and if uninformed adjustments have been made to the suspension in the past), OR,
  • there is some other mechanical problem with mechanical suspension components, bushes, bearings, etc, OR,
  • there is structural damage to the chassis, OR,
  • sometimes there are simple side-to-side differences in overall wheel/tyre outside diameter caused by different tyres, different wear or different tyre pressures, OR,
  • there maybe combinations of these conditions.
First things first on any AHC review or suspension adjustment:
  • forget about Techstream until later in the review,
  • first, use a tape-measure and torsion bar adjusters to equalise the Front hub-to-fender heights per first attachment,
  • it does not matter what are the actual measurements at this stage, just make them as equal as possible,
  • later in the process, after the Front has been ‘cross levelled’ correctly, and when it comes time to set the ‘ride height’ of the vehicle, then the ‘ride heights’ will be set using the Height Control Sensor Adjusters,
  • ‘ride height’ is not by set the torsion bar adjusters. This detail is one of the fundamental differences between an AHC suspension and a conventional suspension – ‘ride height’ is not set by torsion bar adjusters on an AHC suspension.
The next step is to get the AHC suspension into its FSM-specified operating ranges. To do this, the Height Control Sensors and their connectors and harnesses have to be electrically healthy.

2. The Sensors:

The reported Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) C1711 is coupled with the huge difference in the Front Sensor readings -- assume these are meant as Front Right (FR): -6.3 inches; Front Left (FL): -0.2 inches??? If so, plainly there is a Sensor problem which must be resolved. (What is ‘LR’ in your post? There is only one Rear Sensor which presumably is designated 'RR').

This condition causes the AHC Electronic Control Unit (ECU) to place the suspension in ‘fail safe’ mode. The causes and effects are described in the second attachment – extracted from the FSM.

In ‘fail safe’ mode,
  • Active Height Control (AHC) functions are prohibited -- will not raise/lower -- and so it will be impossible to read AHC pressures and these will read as zero on Techstream. It also will be impossible to determine overall ‘globe’ condition by measuring difference in graduations at the AHC Tank at “HI” and “LO” height settings. [It still will be possible to read the Height Control Sensor readings on Techstream – as you have done],
  • Toyota Electronic Modulated Suspension (TEMS) functions are prohibited – no adaptive variable damping, so ride will be rough, especially at town speeds.

More details are given in the second attachment extracted from the FSM. These details include a simple method of testing the electrical health of the Height Control Sensors.

Note that the Sensors are VERY simple devices, basically the same kind of potentiometer as invented by Thomas Edison way back in 1875 or thereabouts. There are no clever electronics inside these things. The FSM indicates that these Sensors are meant to operate in a range of 0.3 to 4.7 volts DC output.

It is recommended that ALL Height Control Sensors be tested, including any new Sensors purchased -- before installation or when Sensor problems arise.

Sometimes Sensors respond to cleaning. Disassembly is simple. This may be worth a try but be wary of electrical imperfections which may not be visible. These Sensors have a very long life but they are ‘wear parts’. Replacement eventually becomes necessary and is worth considering, especially if 20 years and 185,000 miles in a hostile environment under the vehicle is considered enough and if reliability is important. Consider how much long-term continuous exposure to there has been to heat, cold, water, mud, snow, salt, roadgrit, sticks, stones, whatever.

The next step is to follow the procedures laid out in the video and summary sheet provided by @suprarx7nut at AHC Info - https://www.yotamd.com/blogs/news/ahc-info

The information assembled by @LndXrsr also is important reading:
The ABCs of AHC - How to Measure, Flush, and Adjust all in one place - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/the-abcs-of-ahc-how-to-measure-flush-and-adjust-all-in-one-place.1211999/

If not seen before, the very readable general description, explanation and diagrams of the AHC/TEMS system on LC100/LX470 is recommended. See link:
https://lc100e.github.io/manual/
Then follow the Index tabs at top left of the opening page:
New Car Features > CHASSIS > Suspension > Active Height Control Suspension and Skyhook TEMS
 

Attachments

Last edited:
To add to the comments already offered ....

There are at least two very separate problems in the reported case:

1. The ‘lean’:

The physical 'lean' of 1.5 inches has nothing to do with AHC (unless the system has some incredibly unusual fault such as a jammed Gate Valve inside the Control Valve Assembly).

The physical lean has nothing to do with the Height Control Sensors, whatever their condition.

The physical lean will not and cannot be corrected by a new Sensor.

This physical 'lean' cannot be corrected by Techstream.

The LC100/LX470 AHC/TEMS system is a two-channel (Front and Rear) system. It can raise/lower the Front and Rear separately. The system cannot and does not adjust height settings at individual wheels separately.

The physical ‘lean’ is a mechanical problem. It is fixed only with the torsion bar adjusters per the attached extract from the FSM.

If the vehicle is stationary or steering straight ahead, then the Gate Valves in the Control Valve Assembly are open. This means that the Right Front AHC is connected to the Left Front AHC and so both are at the same pressure. Ditto Right Rear is connected to Left Rear and so both are at the same pressure. [Note: The Front and Rear AHC circuits are not hydraulically connected].

This is why it is impossible to ‘cross level’ the Front of the vehicle with the Height Control Sensors. Attempts to do so may affect the height of the vehicle and also will affect the measured Front AHC pressure – but whatever this pressure may be, it will be the same on both Front Left and Front Right, so the weight carried by the AHC system will be the same on both sides.

A ‘lean’ at the Front relates either to
  • the torsion bars carrying unequal loads (most likely and very common, especially if there have been misunderstandings and if uninformed adjustments have been made to the suspension in the past), OR,
  • there is some other mechanical problem with mechanical suspension components, OR,
  • there is structural damage to the chassis, OR,
  • sometimes there are simple side-to-side differences in overall wheel/tyre outside diameter caused by different tyres, different wear or different tyre pressures, OR,
  • there maybe combinations of these conditions.
First things first on any AHC review or suspension adjustment:
  • forget about Techstream until later in the review,
  • first, use a tape-measure and torsion bar adjusters to equalise the Front hub-to-fender heights per first attachment,
  • it does not matter what the measurements are this stage, just make them as equal as possible,
  • later in the process, after the Front has been ‘cross levelled’ correctly, and when it comes time to set the ‘ride height’ of the vehicle, then the ‘ride heights’ will be set using the Height Control Sensor Adjusters,
  • ‘ride height’ is not by set the torsion bar adjusters. This detail is one of the fundamental differences between an AHC suspension and a conventional suspension – ‘ride height’ is not set by torsion bar adjusters on an AHC suspension.
The next step is to get the AHC suspension into its FSM-specified operating ranges. To do this, the Height Control Sensors and their connectors and harnesses have to be electrically healthy.

2. The Sensors:

The reported Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) C1711 is coupled with the huge difference in the Front Sensor readings -- assume these are meant as Front Right (FR): -6.3 inches; Front Left (FL): -0.2 inches??? If so, plainly there is a Sensor problem which must be resolved. (What is ‘LR’ in your post? There is only one Rear Sensor which presumably is designated 'RR').

This condition causes the AHC Electronic Control Unit (ECU) to place the suspension in ‘fail safe’ mode. The causes and effects are described in the second attachment – extracted from the FSM.

In ‘fail safe’ mode,
  • Active Height Control (AHC) functions are prohibited -- will not raise/lower -- and so it will be impossible to read AHC pressures and these will read as zero on Techstream. It also will be impossible to determine overall ‘globe’ condition by measuring difference in graduations at the AHC Tank at “HI” and “LO” height settings. [It still will be possible to read the Height Control Sensor readings on Techstream – as you have done],
  • Toyota Electronic Modulated Suspension (TEMS) functions are prohibited – no adaptive variable damping, so ride will be rough, especially at town speeds.

More details are given in the second attachment extracted from the FSM. These details include a simple method of testing the electrical health of the Height Control Sensors.

Note that the Sensors are VERY simple devices, basically the same kind of potentiometer as invented by Thomas Edison way back in 1875 or thereabouts. There are no clever electronics inside these things. The FSM indicates that these Sensors are meant to operate in a range of 0.3 to 4.7 volts DC.

It is recommended that ALL Height Control Sensors be tested, including any new Sensors purchased -- before installation or when Sensor problems arise.

Sometimes Sensors respond to cleaning. Disassembly is simple. This may be worth a try but be wary of electrical imperfections which may not be visible. These Sensors have a very long life but they are ‘wear parts’. Replacement eventually becomes necessary and is worth considering, especially if 20 years and 185,000 miles in a hostile environment under the vehicle -- heat, cold, water, mud, snow, salt, roadgrit, sticks, stones, whatever -- is consider enough and if reliability is important.

The next step is to follow the procedures laid out in the video and summary sheet provided by @suprarx7nut at AHC Info - https://www.yotamd.com/blogs/news/ahc-info

The information assembled by @LndXrsr also is important reading:
The ABCs of AHC - How to Measure, Flush, and Adjust all in one place - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/the-abcs-of-ahc-how-to-measure-flush-and-adjust-all-in-one-place.1211999/

If not seen before, the very readable general description, explanation and diagrams of the AHC/TEMS system on LC100/LX470 is recommended. See link:
https://lc100e.github.io/manual/
Then follow the Index tabs:
New Car Features > CHASSIS > Suspension > Active Height Control Suspension and Skyhook TEMS

Thank you VERY much for the detailed post and instructions. LR is meant to FL - good catch. So - cross level car via torsion bars, fix/replace sensors for ride height and further diagnosis (or hopefully fixing) of AHC.
 
So I was able to get the passenger and driver side level by many many many adjustments to the T-bars. However, driver side t bar (judging by the nut that holds the bolt) is significantly higher than the passenger side. I'm not sure if this okay or could potentially cause damage.
 
I ran into this 'off' thing just recently on a 2000 lx. I just went to the off button on the ride selector switch and cycled it about twenty times. I guessed, correctly, that some dirt had just gotten in there and was not allowing the switch to make contact.

Suddenly the 'off' light on the dash turned off and the AHC started leveling the truck.

I always try the simplest thing first.
 
So I was able to get the passenger and driver side level by many many many adjustments to the T-bars. However, driver side t bar (judging by the nut that holds the bolt) is significantly higher than the passenger side. I'm not sure if this okay or could potentially cause damage.
Should be fine. See the “ultimate torsion bar” thread in the FAQ for more info and how to reindex if desired.
 
I ran into this 'off' thing just recently on a 2000 lx. I just went to the off button on the ride selector switch and cycled it about twenty times. I guessed, correctly, that some dirt had just gotten in there and was not allowing the switch to make contact.

Suddenly the 'off' light on the dash turned off and the AHC started leveling the truck.

I always try the simplest thing first.
I haven't had my LX for long, but it has low miles at it didn't get used regularly prior to my ownership which introduced some problems like that. I had a problem with the raise/lower button not working, but after repeated actuations, it started to work perfectly. The same with the mirrors tilting when in reverse. When I first got it, they barely worked, and now they work flawlessly every time, and I never did anything other than using the truck daily.
 
I haven't had my LX for long, but it has low miles at it didn't get used regularly prior to my ownership which introduced some problems like that. I had a problem with the raise/lower button not working, but after repeated actuations, it started to work perfectly. The same with the mirrors tilting when in reverse. When I first got it, they barely worked, and now they work flawlessly every time, and I never did anything other than using the truck daily.
I have found stilling to be the worst thing electrically for any car or truck. I once bought a car at auction that the owner had not driven in seven years. They had put it away correctly and it started up quickly enough but I was fighting electrical problems for years. It was always the same thing: Dirt had settled on an electrical connection and this attracted moisture to trap. Then it was just a matter of time before the connection failed. And boy, were there a lot of failures.

And all caused by nothing but the sitting for years and years.
 
Removed front right sensor, cracked it open. One of the 'fork' tabs was severely bent, and one of the gold plated coils was corroded. Cleaned everything back to shiny with 99% isoprop but still no dice. I did briefly see some pressure numbers in techstream. So some signs of life. New left and right sensor should be here sunday.
 
I ran into this 'off' thing just recently on a 2000 lx. I just went to the off button on the ride selector switch and cycled it about twenty times. I guessed, correctly, that some dirt had just gotten in there and was not allowing the switch to make contact.

Suddenly the 'off' light on the dash turned off and the AHC started leveling the truck.

I always try the simplest thing first.
Yes -- always good to try simple things first. The centre console switch group can be affected by spills of coffee or other drinks, crumbs, whatever, or just oxidation -- plenty of opportunity for any of these things over the 14 to 24 years of life in a 100 series vehicle with AHC (20 years in the case of @tyl3rd).

A check and clean-up of the switch group would be considered good maintenance. Some pictures of this switch group can be found at:
Suspension problem even after replacing almost everything - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/suspension-problem-even-after-replacing-almost-everything.812905/page-2#post-9444102
As per the FSM AHC Diagnostics section, problems in this switch group also would be expected to show in Techstream as Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) C1786, C1787, C1788 -- but these may not show consistently if the fault is intermittent.

All that said, possible malfunction of this switch is unrelated to the group of symptoms reported by @tyl3rd.

The 'lean' is mechanical -- nothing to do with the AHC or its switch.

DTC C1711 reported by @tyl3rd corresponds to the Right Front Height Control Sensor circuit. As specified in the FSM, it means that the ECU is not receiving a signal in the acceptable range of 0.3 volts to 4.7 volts in the required time from this Sensor – which means there is a problem in the Sensor or its Connector or in the wiring harness.

Taken together with the obviously spurious Height Sensor Control reading of -6.3 inches, there is little room for doubt about the problem with the Right Front Sensor circuit – as confirmed by the subsequent report by @tyl3rd. As explained, in this condition the ECU will place the vehicle in the FSM-defined ‘fail safe’ mode – no AHC function and the AHC displays “OFF”.

In these circumstances, if there was no “OFF” display, then the switch would be suspected as another problem in addition to the Sensor circuit.

All the more reason to keep switches and display lights as well as sensors in good condition.
 
Last edited:
Removed front right sensor, cracked it open. One of the 'fork' tabs was severely bent, and one of the gold plated coils was corroded. Cleaned everything back to shiny with 99% isoprop but still no dice. I did briefly see some pressure numbers in techstream. So some signs of life. New left and right sensor should be here sunday.

Sadly, the outcome is as expected. The appearance of some intermittent numbers in Techstream is consistent with the Sensor electrical condition and this is causing erratic signals.

Prior to installing the new Sensors, the following is suggested:

  • On both Right and Left sides, disconnect the Sensor harness at the connector in the engine bay on top of the wheel arch and use a multimeter to check the voltage here, with engine “ON. The idea is to use a similar approach as used in the Sensor test, but looking to see what voltage the vehicle is applying to the Sensor instead of the 3 x 1.5 volt battery pack. The voltage should be similar when multimeter measures across terminals 2 and 3 on the vehicle side of this connector.
AHC Sensor Voltage Check.jpg



Connector - AHC Left Height Control Sensor - RHD.jpg

Connector and test point for right hand front Height Control Sensor harness connection on a Right Hand Drive LC100 with 1HD-FTE turbodiesel (AHC Pump and Fuel Filter is on left hand side in this case). Left Hand Drive LC100/LX470 with 2UZ-FE gasoline engine will look a lot different but Height Control Sensor harness will be in a similar position on top of the wheel arch.


  • Ideally, Toyota/Lexus or AISIN replacement Sensors are being acquired. AISIN is a supplier to Toyota/Lexus and is part-owned by Toyota/Lexus. Alternatives are cheaper and maybe OK but have mixed reviews on IH8MUD and elsewhere. If these are to be used, suggest test Sensors before installation using the FSM method per attachment to my previous post #5 in this thread. Actually, this is good practice before installing or re-installing any Sensor from any source. If there is a problem, it is best to find it early.

  • Check continuity of connector and harness behind the new connector, using a multimeter.

  • Carry out the same checks on the Rear Sensor. Even though the Rear Sensor does not seem to be problematic at this point in time, it is the same age and has been subject to the same conditions as the other Sensors although it is not quite as exposed as the Front Sensors. It is worthwhile to be confident of its electrical condition. It may respond to a clean-up. (Note: Unless a platform lift is available, it is easiest to access the Rear Sensor by removing the under-slung spare wheel and working under the vehicle).

  • After re-installing Sensors check ‘ride height’ and re-adjust Sensor positions if necessary, so as to achieve Front hub-to-fender 19.75 inches, Rear hub-to-fender 20.50 inches (different if the vehicle has been 'lifted') and at the same time with Height Sensor readings on Techstream all close to zero inches. Ask a question if unclear how to do this.
AHC Front Height Control Sensors.jpg


AHC Rear Height Control Sensor.jpg



Height Control Sensors.JPG
 
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Sensors replaced, AHC is lifting and lowering the truck now. No more flashing 'off' while driving. Will do a proper yotaMD run through this weekend to determine globe health and make sure pressures are even.

Great progress!!

Suggest get AHC pressures into FSM-specified range before the 'globe' health test (difference in graduations at AHC Tank between "HI" and "LO"). Otherwise this HI/LO test does not mean much -- not comparable with FSM numbers.

Also suggest that it is a good time to re-check 'cross-level' (equalise Front Left and Front Right hub-to-centre tape-measurements at "N" height) and adjust with torsion bar adjusters if necessary.
 

Attachments

Having a real hard time getting the AHC pressures within range. Current pressure is 7.5 down from almost 9. However there's not a lot of room left to torque on the t bars. Current graduations is about 6-7ish. Will keep wrenching and update as I move through it
 
Keep torquing until you slam the bolt bumpstops yo!
 
Went out with a can of pb blaster and a new attitude. got pressures within spec and got it cross leveled. -- Globes only move 6 graduations though :\ - I guess next step is fluid flush? Or does this mean the globes are toast and need replacing?
 
I'd do a bleed and note which globes produce bubbles. Cast an evil eye at them and consider replacing them (in pairs is best).
 
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