Builds ROTW MarkT (now TAZ)

I have had this cruiser for a little over three years. It was preceeded by a 1988 FJ62. I, as have many others, thought this would be my life long cruiser. The only problem was the cancer that was eating at it (rust) I finally decided it was a lost cause and sold it in 2002 with 265000 miles. I searched for a couple months and in Nov. 2002 found the current cruiser. 1997 FZJ80 with 93,000 miles at the time. I don't think it had ever seen the dirt before I owned it. I had it about two weeks before the parts started coming.

OME J springs all around and L shocks.
MTR 315/12.5/16
ARB w/warn 10000
Rear 4+ bumper
Super Nerfs (off a Grand Cherokee)
Dual Batteries
Slee trasfere case skid

I ran this set up for a couple of months before I got the itch (with the help of the forum of course!) to add more

I added slees 1.5" front spacers to help level things out
slee sway bar drops
Built the rear drawer storage
CDL switch

This was great, but I still had one small problem...after adding a bit more weight and the bigger tires I was still missing one important thing....POWER

I came across a slightly used TRD S/C for a great price. I had it on the truck in a couple of days and happy with the results. Not a rocket by any means but I could now manage 60mph coming off the ramp on to the freeway!

Due to the heavy weight of the rig, the now super charged engine and my heavy right foot I could only manage 180 miles per tank. This just wasn't going to cut it. After looking at the after market options for aux fuel tanks I decided to build my own. My goals were maximum fuel capacity with out hanging any lower than the frame. So I measured re measured and measured again the dimensions for the new auxillary tank. I took the dimensions to a marine tank builder and it was ready the next day. I was able to fit a 26 gallon tank above the frame rails! I used the factory dual filler to fill the new tank (thanks guys)

After adding the aux tank and a few other bits and pieces my old rear J springs were just too soft for all that weight. Rather than removing the front spacers to level things out I decided I needed more lift for the rear (isn't it against the rules to "remove" lift?) So, a call to Slee and a few days later I had the 4" rear springs and the "new" castor plates for the front.


List of Mods to Date currently on the truck
-ARB w/ warn 10000
-rear 4+ bumper
-TRD S/C
-Front J springs
-Slee 1.5" front spacers
-Slee 4" rear springs
-Ron Davis Racing radiator
-Toy truck fan (thanks Dan) now more cooler
-Custom aluminum 26 gallon aux fuel tank
-Slee transfer skid plate
-NO more Cherokee sliders...I cut them off (need to talk to Hanna)
-rear drawer storage
-Dual Orbital Red Top (starting/deep cycle) batteries
-BFG 315/75/16
-D/C front drive shaft

I was pretty happy with the truck the way it is now. That was untill I saw the chopped FZJ, that Hanna built, at surfnturf this last year. It got me thinking about alot of different things.

I am leaning towards using my 80 for primarily a trail rig.

My plans are (before Moab)
-37's
-6" lift (3 link?)
-5.29s
-longfields
-Longer Shocks

pics

Moab and Holcomb Creek

how about some pictures of the tank please

Nice write up.

Thanks for contributing.

great write up. more info and pics on the rear bumper....please

I am starting with an identical vehicle. 97 FZJ80 105K white also never been on anything rougher than a dirt road. One owner.I would like to see more pics of your rig Could you put the rear bumper on by yourself or did you have to have the manufactuer install it? Awesome rig I cant wait to get started on mine!

Yeah, Mark, please relate the story of that rear bumper install to this audience

Have you picked up a set of sliders yet?

VERY NICE!!!



I think I saw your 80 driving down the freeway, in San Clemente, about a year ago.


I would also like to see more pics of your tank.

Nice write up Mark. I can't wait to see it on the 26th!

Fuel Tank Pics

Here is some info and a couple of shots of the aux fuel tank

the demensions are 21"x40.5"x7"
this comes to roughly a 26 gallon tank
Please note that the frame was cut (bobbed) and a new rear cross member installed when the 4+ bumper went on. Your clearance for a tank may vary slightly...by how much I don't know?

I was able to mount a filler neck on the top of the tank that points straight at the dual filler neck...straight hose connection between frame and body. To get the fuel out I used a standard fuel pump (slow) that pumps the fuel into the breather line of the stock tank with a T. This way If I forget to turn off the pump the fuel just gets dumped back into the aux tank via the dual filler neck.

As you can see from the photos the tank is flush with the bottom of the frame. The bit you can seeing hanging down is the bracket that holds up the front of the tank. I still need to add a skid plate which I plan to do in the next couple of weeks.

I lost a little capacity a few weeks back on the Hammers in Johnson Valley. Lucky for me the exhaust took the majority of the hits...saved the tank but I now have 1" exhaust

It was very difficult to run the exhaust with the tank as far forward as it is. At the time I had the tank built I wanted the maximum gallonage and the tank to be flush with the frame. I have changed a bit in my thinking lately...more clearance for all pieces including the exhaust. I am going to have the tank cut a bit to allow for the exhaust to squeak through between the frame and the tank. I figure I will only loose about 5 gallons capacity whcih leaves me with 21 gallons which should be plenty

rear bumper

Funny Mike! Lets just say I would highly recomend Slee, Hanna or 4x4 labs...I think you all get the hint.

That said, this bumper is built like a Brick Out House! I have smashed, draged, scraped, slammed the hell out of it with out even a small dent or bend. I havn't taken it off the truck but I guess it would weigh around 250#.

It is painted and not powder coated and is starting to really look bad (powder coating as soon as I fix a couple things)

The latch that it came with (second pic) for the spare and side rack was a royal pain in the arse. It worked great...no rattle or shaking... just really hard to open with one hand much less two. And then I was always loosing the bolt or handle or woorse forgeting to latch it DOH!!!!! I have since fixed this problem by using a slam latch (first pic) and fabing some new brackets. I think this has to be the best thing I have done to the cruiser. I just slam and walk away!
The other thing I added was a grease cert on each bushing (not bearings) because I couldn't get the thing open a month after I got it. Now it is smooth as silk!
I am also going to put some air struts on each swing away to prevent body damage etc. when on a side hill.

Sell larger gas tanks on the side

Taz, I was curious....what will the 5.29's give you over 4:88's...I always thought 4:88's were the way to go on 37's??
airlaird

5.29's

I am going for the lowest possible (at this time) ratio. After looking at the numbers I determined 5.29's are best for me

below is a list of rpm diffences for a given tire/ratio combo

TIRE - GEARS - DIFFERENCE COMPARED TO STOCK
31/ 4.10 = 0 RPM
35/ 4.10 = -304 RPM
35/ 4.88 = +144 RPM
37/ 4.88 = -7 RPM
37/ 5.29 = +216 RPM


As you can see, the rpms are only about 50 higher with the 5.29's/37s compared to the 4.88/ 35's. I think the 5.29s will be just about right for the kind of driving I will use the cruiser for. I don't plan on running much over say 85 anyway!

Nice write-up and great info on Gears, tires and rpm.

more pics from over the years

Here are a few from Moab 2004

Colorado 2003

Colorado 2003

Anza Borrego and Holcomb Creek

Rear Drawer System

This is one of many un-finnished projects for me. I have 1/2" plywood and carpet above the aluminum rails you see in the pics. I've had well over 500 pounds on top of this thing and it hasn't bent at all. The smaller middle pieces are 1/2"x1"x?thick Aluminum. The rear most piece (Strongest) is 1"X2" Alum welded to a piece of 1/2x1 Alum. The front is 1"x1" Alum also welded to 1/2x1 With the plywood on top the deck is flat all the way from side to side (over fenders) The sliders are rated for around 500 pounds and are full extension. I will snap a couple pictures of the current state of the drawer (been the same for two years)

cool pics and great truck