MTS Have you installed those Speed Bleeders Yet?
- Thread starter yomama
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Re: MTS Have you installed those Speed Bleeders Ye
Yomama:
I recently did speedbleeders and steel brake lines. Same caliper bleeders front and rear, but the load sensing valve uses a smaller size - don't know the spec. BigMac
Yomama:
I recently did speedbleeders and steel brake lines. Same caliper bleeders front and rear, but the load sensing valve uses a smaller size - don't know the spec. BigMac
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Re: MTS Have you installed those Speed Bleeders Ye
BigMac,
So you DO have a speed bleeder on the load sensing unit as well?
Did you get them directly from speedbleeder.com and by telling them what your vehicle was they sent you the correct ones?
I too have the steel lines, but have not installed them yet because I just hated bleeding the lines.
Thanks,
Yomama
BigMac,
So you DO have a speed bleeder on the load sensing unit as well?
Did you get them directly from speedbleeder.com and by telling them what your vehicle was they sent you the correct ones?
I too have the steel lines, but have not installed them yet because I just hated bleeding the lines.
Thanks,
Yomama
Re: MTS Have you installed those Speed Bleeders Ye
Yomama:
No Speedbleeder installed on the valve; I don't know it's dimensions. I ran out of time before I could unscrew and measure it - but it is smaller than the caliper screws.
Maybe next year at system flush time..... BigMac
Yomama:
No Speedbleeder installed on the valve; I don't know it's dimensions. I ran out of time before I could unscrew and measure it - but it is smaller than the caliper screws.
Maybe next year at system flush time..... BigMac
Re: MTS Have you installed those Speed Bleeders Ye
No, I have not.....I'm a slacker. Maybe I'll get to it this week. I installed my SC within 24 hrs of getting it(12 hr install), it took 6 weeks for me to install my water injection system (2-3 hr install). So based on that inverse relationship....I'll probably get those speed bleeders put in by Christmas. :
Mike
No, I have not.....I'm a slacker. Maybe I'll get to it this week. I installed my SC within 24 hrs of getting it(12 hr install), it took 6 weeks for me to install my water injection system (2-3 hr install). So based on that inverse relationship....I'll probably get those speed bleeders put in by Christmas. :
Mike
Re: MTS Have you installed those Speed Bleeders Ye
The bleeders don't make it go any faster, that's why they languish in the parts bin :
The bleeders don't make it go any faster, that's why they languish in the parts bin :
Re: MTS Have you installed those Speed Bleeders Ye
[quote author=mts link=board=2;threadid=1696;start=msg10982#msg10982 date=1056461701]
No, I have not.....I'm a slacker. Maybe I'll get to it this week. I installed my SC within 24 hrs of getting it(12 hr install), it took 6 weeks for me to install my water injection system (2-3 hr install). So based on that inverse relationship....I'll probably get those speed bleeders put in by Christmas. :
Mike
[/quote]
I finally installed them. Since I predicted Xmas, getting them done in September *technically* means I'm ahead of schedule.
I do not have a speedbleeder on the load sensing unit. Oh, the reason for the different OEM part #'s is the rear OEM bleeders are slightly shorter than the front. Same thread and pitch though. The replacement speedbleeders are the same for all 4 corners.
Mike
[quote author=mts link=board=2;threadid=1696;start=msg10982#msg10982 date=1056461701]
No, I have not.....I'm a slacker. Maybe I'll get to it this week. I installed my SC within 24 hrs of getting it(12 hr install), it took 6 weeks for me to install my water injection system (2-3 hr install). So based on that inverse relationship....I'll probably get those speed bleeders put in by Christmas. :
Mike
[/quote]
I finally installed them. Since I predicted Xmas, getting them done in September *technically* means I'm ahead of schedule.
I do not have a speedbleeder on the load sensing unit. Oh, the reason for the different OEM part #'s is the rear OEM bleeders are slightly shorter than the front. Same thread and pitch though. The replacement speedbleeders are the same for all 4 corners.
Mike
What brand of speed bleeders are you guys using?
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what is a speedbleeder? 
[quote author=thorvald link=board=2;threadid=1696;start=msg44348#msg44348 date=1064384888]
what is a speedbleeder?
[/quote]
The speed bleeders I am using come from www.speedbleeder.com I have them on all my vehicles now and have been quite pleased. The website has a more detailed discussion of what a speedbleeder is and what other alternatives are available.
However, in a nutshell, a speedbleeder replaces the current brake bleeder screws on your LC. If you bleed you own brakes (and don't use an expensive vac or pump, like most of us don't), using the stock bleeder screws, its a bit of a PITA. You need two people to do it (one to pump the pedal and one to open and close the bleeder). Using this method, its very easy to get air into the brake lines (which is bad). The Speed bleeders have a one way valve in them. Brake fluid comes out, but air can't get back in. It turns a two person job into a one person job (now you just open the bleeder then go pump the pedal yourself and come back to close it) and eliminates the possibility of getting air in the lines in the process. For $8 each, its not a bad deal. Plus since you don't even have to remove the tires to bleed the LC's brakes, it's a 15 minute job to bleed the whole system now.
These things were orginally designed for use at the race track where you might have to bleed your brakes in the middle of an event/session, etc. to speed the process up significantlly. Works well in other situations too though.
Mike
what is a speedbleeder?
[/quote]
The speed bleeders I am using come from www.speedbleeder.com I have them on all my vehicles now and have been quite pleased. The website has a more detailed discussion of what a speedbleeder is and what other alternatives are available.
However, in a nutshell, a speedbleeder replaces the current brake bleeder screws on your LC. If you bleed you own brakes (and don't use an expensive vac or pump, like most of us don't), using the stock bleeder screws, its a bit of a PITA. You need two people to do it (one to pump the pedal and one to open and close the bleeder). Using this method, its very easy to get air into the brake lines (which is bad). The Speed bleeders have a one way valve in them. Brake fluid comes out, but air can't get back in. It turns a two person job into a one person job (now you just open the bleeder then go pump the pedal yourself and come back to close it) and eliminates the possibility of getting air in the lines in the process. For $8 each, its not a bad deal. Plus since you don't even have to remove the tires to bleed the LC's brakes, it's a 15 minute job to bleed the whole system now.
These things were orginally designed for use at the race track where you might have to bleed your brakes in the middle of an event/session, etc. to speed the process up significantlly. Works well in other situations too though.
Mike
Sounds like a neat little addition to the 1991 I have....
Anyone know the size I would need for both front disk and rear drum speedbleeders?
My wife is gonna kill me hehehe
Anyone know the size I would need for both front disk and rear drum speedbleeders?
My wife is gonna kill me hehehe
[quote author=DanKunz link=board=2;threadid=1696;start=msg44366#msg44366 date=1064404787]
Anyone know the size I would need for both front disk and rear drum speedbleeders?
[/quote]
I don't know for sure for a 1991, but they have the sizes for many more vehicles than are listed on the website. Email them or call them and they should be able to give you the proper sizes.
Mike
Anyone know the size I would need for both front disk and rear drum speedbleeders?
[/quote]
I don't know for sure for a 1991, but they have the sizes for many more vehicles than are listed on the website. Email them or call them and they should be able to give you the proper sizes.
Mike
Dan,
Bleeding sequence is RR, LR, RF, LF, LSPV. (US models)
More information in the following post:
http://69.61.14.149/forum/index.php?board=2;action=display;threadid=2034;start=msg15251#msg15251
-B-
Bleeding sequence is RR, LR, RF, LF, LSPV. (US models)
More information in the following post:
http://69.61.14.149/forum/index.php?board=2;action=display;threadid=2034;start=msg15251#msg15251
-B-
[quote author=BigMac link=board=2;threadid=1696;start=msg44689#msg44689 date=1064465164]
I'm still hoping somebody can come up with the thread spec for the LSBV's bleed screw - I hate having one oddball still in there. Wonder if CDAN stocks it..... BigMac
[/quote]
Cap.... The LSVP bleeder is not serviced by MrT. Ya gotta buy the valve to get it.
I'm still hoping somebody can come up with the thread spec for the LSBV's bleed screw - I hate having one oddball still in there. Wonder if CDAN stocks it..... BigMac
[/quote]
Cap.... The LSVP bleeder is not serviced by MrT. Ya gotta buy the valve to get it.
[quote author=DRTDUCK link=board=2;threadid=1696;start=msg44681#msg44681 date=1064462832]
What are folks opinions about an upgraded brake fluid?
DOT-4
sythetic
I see that Valvoline makes a Syn 3/4
Will any of these or others, an upgrade in pedal feel?
[/quote]
I won't pretend to be an expert on brake fluid, but I'll throw my 2 cents in anyway. Brake fluid is hygroscopic (sp?), which means it attracts water. When water is heated and boils or heated and cooled repeatedly it speeds up the evaporation process and gives you air bubbles in the brake fluid which leads to "soft pedal", or almost no brakes if you are unlucky enough to get the stuff hot enough to boil (don't ask me how I know this)
The higher number DOT fluids have higher boiling points which mean they are more resistant to boiling and breaking down. The same concept for "synthetic" fluids.
Theoretically a fresh regular DOT 3 fluid will give you similar pedal firmness to a fresh synthetic DOT 4 or 5. In extreme conditions, the regular DOT 3 will be likely to break down more quickly than a sythetic DOT 4 for example.
For the LC, unless you are really heating up the brakes (towing, etc.) I can't see any real need for anything more than the regular DOT 3. In my track car for example, I have to use a 4 or 5 to keep the fluid from boiling on the course.
That being said I run the Valvoline Synpower Dot 3/4 in my LC anyway. I think its a good fluid and its pretty cheap compared to the Motul and ATE super blue I rotate in my track car.
Mike
What are folks opinions about an upgraded brake fluid?
DOT-4
sythetic
I see that Valvoline makes a Syn 3/4
Will any of these or others, an upgrade in pedal feel?
[/quote]
I won't pretend to be an expert on brake fluid, but I'll throw my 2 cents in anyway. Brake fluid is hygroscopic (sp?), which means it attracts water. When water is heated and boils or heated and cooled repeatedly it speeds up the evaporation process and gives you air bubbles in the brake fluid which leads to "soft pedal", or almost no brakes if you are unlucky enough to get the stuff hot enough to boil (don't ask me how I know this)
The higher number DOT fluids have higher boiling points which mean they are more resistant to boiling and breaking down. The same concept for "synthetic" fluids.
Theoretically a fresh regular DOT 3 fluid will give you similar pedal firmness to a fresh synthetic DOT 4 or 5. In extreme conditions, the regular DOT 3 will be likely to break down more quickly than a sythetic DOT 4 for example.
For the LC, unless you are really heating up the brakes (towing, etc.) I can't see any real need for anything more than the regular DOT 3. In my track car for example, I have to use a 4 or 5 to keep the fluid from boiling on the course.
That being said I run the Valvoline Synpower Dot 3/4 in my LC anyway. I think its a good fluid and its pretty cheap compared to the Motul and ATE super blue I rotate in my track car.
Mike
Dan -
Thanks for that tidbit - one of these days I'll get around to pulling the valve's stock bleed screw and measuring it. Probably when I do next year's flush. BigMac
Thanks for that tidbit - one of these days I'll get around to pulling the valve's stock bleed screw and measuring it. Probably when I do next year's flush. BigMac
Bill -
Thanks a lot - looks like the SB7100S applies.
BigMac
Thanks a lot - looks like the SB7100S applies.
BigMac
SB7100S is incorrect, it is too short. You need the SB7100.