I have a 1991 Prado. I need the little electric motor that sits inside the front hub and actually engages the hub when activated. Does anyone know where I can get one, and are there any other models compatible. I am in the Kootenays, here in B.C.. We got a foot of snow last night and still snowing. I'm not going anywhere without 4WD
NEW, Prado hub problem.
- Thread starter antbarn
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try taking the hubs apart and cleaning the assembly.
If you want, you can change to manual hubs without too much difficulty, but you will need to source the parts (which are available used).
~j.
If you want, you can change to manual hubs without too much difficulty, but you will need to source the parts (which are available used).
~j.
- Thread starter
- #6
NEW,Prado Hub Problem
Thanks everyone for the advice, and help. We pulled the hub apart, and found one of the brushes are broken. Looks like this is a complete assembly. Does anyone know if you can buy this separate from the motor, or is this a complete unit. Thanks again
Thanks everyone for the advice, and help. We pulled the hub apart, and found one of the brushes are broken. Looks like this is a complete assembly. Does anyone know if you can buy this separate from the motor, or is this a complete unit. Thanks again
Toyota don't sell the carbon brush's, but a Auto electric shop should be able to make them for you, but at a cost?
You have to buy the whole assembly from toyota - japan. i think the cost is around 700 before you have someone go get it and package and ship it. switch to manual - cheaper and probably quicker.
a manual kit from japan includes 2 new hubs and spacer rings with hardware - costs about 700. G and S is experimenting with a set of spacers I sent them. I bought a kit from Japan and had the spacers copied and auitocaded or whatever it is. G and S might be selling kits now - not sure so try them.
I am not sure that a shop could produce those tiny brushes - or make them so they would be reliable. Not sure.
Regards,
a manual kit from japan includes 2 new hubs and spacer rings with hardware - costs about 700. G and S is experimenting with a set of spacers I sent them. I bought a kit from Japan and had the spacers copied and auitocaded or whatever it is. G and S might be selling kits now - not sure so try them.
I am not sure that a shop could produce those tiny brushes - or make them so they would be reliable. Not sure.
Regards,
crushers
post ho
the only time i have found "them little brushes" to fail is during rutine maintence by the unknowning. yo have to hold the brushes back with a pin to reassemble or they will break off.
if you are a clutz or already have damaged brushes then it is a good idea to get rid of the elec hubs...
if you are a clutz or already have damaged brushes then it is a good idea to get rid of the elec hubs...
Or if you are like most good electronics fearing/loathing Landcruiser owners and prefer not to have a goofy little electronic device perform a task that is so easily done with a twist of the wrist.
Louis, Greg is playing with the spacers on the bench with some electric LJ hubs that were left with us after we got him converted to pre 1990 manual hub parts.
We will weight the costs/advantages/disadvantages of the spacer set up VS the BJ7 hub parts.
Sheldon
One of the reasons for converting your original electric hubs to manual, (not fitting after-markett types) is to get away from having the 15mm spacer.
We have found that if you fit larger tyres, you will have trouble with the studs working loose or the studs breaking.
One way to help this problem is to grind a drill to 30 degrees and CSK the 6 hole in the freewheel hub, and useing the collets.
We have found that if you fit larger tyres, you will have trouble with the studs working loose or the studs breaking.
One way to help this problem is to grind a drill to 30 degrees and CSK the 6 hole in the freewheel hub, and useing the collets.
Eg, I mean the after-markett hubs that do not have CSK stud holes.
Like Super winch Hubs
Like Super winch Hubs
crushers
post ho
hummm,
i have been running 36" tractor tires (very agressive) and a heavy foot with no problems yet... but then 36 isn't very big and i log very few km a year... they are almost all off road...
i have no problem with someone wanting to design a kit/swap in older parts just i wouldn't go to the trouble untill is shows signs of breaking...
now saying that on the newer (1990+) front diffs why not just swap a complete front axle into your elec smaller diffed front end? after all the next weak spot is the open smaller reverse cut front center unit...
either go all the way or stay stock...
cheers
This electronic hub thing is not so much a strenth issue, it is a reliability issue.
I'll go out on a limb here to suggest that 95% of the folks who bought LJ78s etc were just looking for a good reliable, efficient, diesel, 4wd multi purpose vehicle.
They just want a Landcruiser that will work in 4wd when they need it. The electric hub failure issue is very common, it's not a question of IF they fail, it's WHEN they fail and that will probably be when you really needed them to work. The electric hub parts are very expensive and not even available in north america, not even the paper gasket.
Swapping to manual hubs via the Spacers or pre 90 spindle/hub etc is a good thing.
To upgrade to the early axle, you would also have to also swap in an older front propellor shaft with larger companion flange to match the larger diff.. and then there is the small companion flange on the front out put of the Tcase which would also need to be swapped out. There are probably other worms in the proverbial can.
I don't believe LJ78 owners will be busting their high pinion front diffs in epidemic proportions, and if they did, it certainly wouldn't happen because they swapped on pre 1990 manual stuff or spacers/manual mechanisms.
I'll go out on a limb here to suggest that 95% of the folks who bought LJ78s etc were just looking for a good reliable, efficient, diesel, 4wd multi purpose vehicle.
They just want a Landcruiser that will work in 4wd when they need it. The electric hub failure issue is very common, it's not a question of IF they fail, it's WHEN they fail and that will probably be when you really needed them to work. The electric hub parts are very expensive and not even available in north america, not even the paper gasket.
Swapping to manual hubs via the Spacers or pre 90 spindle/hub etc is a good thing.
To upgrade to the early axle, you would also have to also swap in an older front propellor shaft with larger companion flange to match the larger diff.. and then there is the small companion flange on the front out put of the Tcase which would also need to be swapped out. There are probably other worms in the proverbial can.
I don't believe LJ78 owners will be busting their high pinion front diffs in epidemic proportions, and if they did, it certainly wouldn't happen because they swapped on pre 1990 manual stuff or spacers/manual mechanisms.
seems like pretty good tech. Why is it in the classifieds 
crushers
post ho
curious, can you not just swap the stub ends of the driveshaft to allow for the older companion flange or if it is one o fthe round type, just turn it 90 degrees and redrill for the newer bolt pattern...
i was suggesting the complete swap for the HZJ and PZJ trucks... the LJ78 stands up top the abuse extremely well (mostly due to an under powered engine)
reliability... you just might have a point there...me, not interested in swapping out the hubs till they break...
seems like pretty good tech. Why is it in the classifieds
Agreed, is there a moderator in the house..
sorry that your thread has morphed into tech antbarn.
The front driveshaft flanges on the small diff front ends are H shaped, at least on my 80 they are.
Diff and tranny output flanges are round. In any event they need to come off to be redrilled properly anyway.
So the small front diffs survive in the LJ78s only because of the underpowered engine?.. OK, so how do you explain why they aren't exactly failing in epidemic proportions on the 80 series with 135hp 1HZ to 300hp supercharged 1FZ-FE.
Absolutely they are weaker than the 9.5" diffs but come on.. in the situations where the front pinion shafts bust, it's probably gona happen no matter what engine. unlocked front diff, one wheel up in the air, spinning fast.. comes down on good traction.. pop.
Anyway... we've hijacked this thread all to hell already with all this small diff business.
So back to the subject of the electric front hub motors and brushes...
I like to think that most Cruiser owners are more pro active when it comes to these sort of things, where there is known reliability issue they tend to address it before they are stuck out there somewhere.
Perhaps one could go into a hobby shop and see if they can get some brushes for an RC car in the right size.. but you know, I for one, would be asking the question "What the HELL am I doing in a HOBBY SHOP buying parts for my LANDCRUISER AXLE????"
While were on this subject, i will put up a couple of photo's of my hub converstion. so here go's.
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The 1st photo's are of drilling and fitting the seal.
The next are of the dummy motor.
The next are of the dummy motor.
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