Its a crappy picture but here are the 2 bolt holes I was speaking of.
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Dual Batts on FJ80, ANYONE??????
- Thread starter FloridaFJ80
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FloridaFJ80
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Wow guys awesome help and ideas.. I think the best bet for our 91-92 80's is to actually use the FZJ80 battery tray the only thing is actually clearing up that area to where everything would still be functional to a degree and still have a place for our second battery. I cant wait to see how this project will end up working out. Keep the ideas coming, i am going to hit the garage tommorow and i will try to see how i can make some space atleast in that area for a battery.
test photo
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I go t some pics today. Excuse tohe quality, they are form a phone and it was cloudy out.
More:
The last of them:
noah91fj80 said:
I think I know who you got that tray from. You live in Twin? I'm up here in Mountain Home if you want to see in person what I've done. Or, if you are going to the BLM Land use meeting with the ID state Off road Association & Blue Ribbon Coalition in Twin on the 14th, maybe I'll see you there. I wasn't planning on driving my truck but can if you need.
See details here:
http://www.planet4x4.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2977
I got my Smog pump valve moved the other day. Had to turn it upside down so the hose fittings would point in the right direction. I used a piece of aluminum sheet I had laying around to make the bracket out of. The hoses alone held the valve up solid. I put the bracket on it just to take the load off the metal tube coming out from under the manifold.
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FloridaFJ80
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Wow!!!!! That is awesome that you got the battery in there.. It seemed like a lot of fabrication on your part and moving stuff around.. How difficult do you think it was do so.. ???? Any suggestions or advice before someone tries to tackle this job?? you should consider doing a step by step write up on how to this so maybe we can see this in the FAQ's.... Truly an awesome Job... !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Nice job Trailbus , sorry I did not make it to the meeting, but what you have done is perfect you have solved all my questions. THANK YOU
It was all pretty easy. Tearing the stuff out of the engine bay corner was straight forward and obvious (as was cutting the OEM smog pump valve bracket.) The hard part for me was trying to figure out where to put the Smog Pump valve. I was going to put it on the innerfender till a friend pointed out those 2 bolts. I used the OEM hoses by cutting three 90* bends off of them. The hose going to the pump is 2 pieces spliced together with a 1" piece of 3/4" ID copper tubing. I looked around for a new piece of 7/8 ID rubber hose but it's not a very popular size. Plumb the valve in first and make a bracket to hold it up. It was pretty solid with just the hose (I ran it that way a couple of days). I just didn't want to risk stressing anything.
All together I spent less the $60 on the tray project (I had an old battery laying around).
All together I spent less the $60 on the tray project (I had an old battery laying around).
FloridaFJ80
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That is awesome.. you should do a write up on it step by step install type thing... !!! I am going to attempt to do this job pretty soon.. What did you use for management in terms of charging both batteries, do you have a solenoid install or are they both wired to one another?? is one on stand by all the time and you flip the switch, or is one your accessories battery and the other your main start up battery?>??
alia176
SILVER Star
Just another observation here.....
- the original poster has only space for a battery
- material cost for a second deep cycle battery, wires, terms, batt management system
- some labor time
OR
Get one of these and be done with it.....
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc2150.htm
* 2150 cranking amps for 5 seconds
* 1985 cranking amps for 10 seconds
* 1695 cranking amps for 20 seconds
* Short circuit current over 5000A
* 100 amp hours
* 200 minute reserve capacity with 25amp load
* 3/8 in. (9.5 mm) corrosion-free stud terminal
* Length 13.0"
* Width 6.80"
* Height 9.40"
* Weighs 75 lbs
* Rugged military construction
* Can be mounted in any orientation
* Limited 4 year full warranty
* Container and cover made from oil resistant plastic
* US DOT and IATA certified non-spillable
* Shipped fully charged - just install and go!
Sure this thing is heavy but not much more than two full size batteries...
Sure this thing is expensive but add up the cost of what I mentioned earlier
You STILL get better performance than any two Yellow Tops
Sure this thing is big but you can make it fit
Ali
- the original poster has only space for a battery
- material cost for a second deep cycle battery, wires, terms, batt management system
- some labor time
OR
Get one of these and be done with it.....
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc2150.htm
* 2150 cranking amps for 5 seconds
* 1985 cranking amps for 10 seconds
* 1695 cranking amps for 20 seconds
* Short circuit current over 5000A
* 100 amp hours
* 200 minute reserve capacity with 25amp load
* 3/8 in. (9.5 mm) corrosion-free stud terminal
* Length 13.0"
* Width 6.80"
* Height 9.40"
* Weighs 75 lbs
* Rugged military construction
* Can be mounted in any orientation
* Limited 4 year full warranty
* Container and cover made from oil resistant plastic
* US DOT and IATA certified non-spillable
* Shipped fully charged - just install and go!
Sure this thing is heavy but not much more than two full size batteries...
Sure this thing is expensive but add up the cost of what I mentioned earlier
You STILL get better performance than any two Yellow Tops
Sure this thing is big but you can make it fit
Ali
I just hooked the 2 batteries together and ran a second lead from the alternator to the second battery.
alia176 said:
No redundancy, all your electrons no matter how many you have still are in one basket.
alia176
SILVER Star
RavenTai said:
Ok, if it's redundency you want, try two of these in the same space as a traditional battery:
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc680mjt.htm
Specs:
* 680 cranking amps for 5 seconds
* 595 cranking amps for 10 seconds
* 525 cranking amps for 20 seconds
* Short circuit current over 1800A
* 17 amp hours
* 25 minute reserve capacity with 25amp load
* With metal jacket and automotive terminals
* Length 7 1/16"
* Width 2 15/16"
* Height 7 3/16"
* Weight 15.4 lb
Odyssey design:
* 2 year full warranty
* Rugged Drycell sealed design
* Military grade
* Vibration resistant
* 60% more starting power
* Deep discharge reserve power
* 2 year storage life
* 8-12 year design life
* Can be mounted flat or upright
alia176 said:Get one of these and be done with it.....
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc2150.htm
...
Sure this thing is heavy but not much more than two full size batteries...
Sure this thing is expensive but add up the cost of what I mentioned earlier
You STILL get better performance than any two Yellow Tops
Sure this thing is big but you can make it fit
Ali
and
Ok, if it's redundency you want, try two of these in the same space as a traditional battery:
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc680mjt.htm
You know, this thread took a very unexpected but *very* interesting turn. Is anyone actually doing this?
Battery specific Questions
I'm looking at this now- I'm going with the Surepower system- Automatic with the ability to tie together. Like the Hellroaring, but cheaper. I'm planning on winching and starting from the main, and running 4 Lightforce, 2 Hella 550's, a CB, and a HAM from the Aux Battery.
That big one seems like a beast and it's mountable for a main, but I'm not sure wher to mount it as a aux battery. I'm still trying to figure out where, but that may have to wait until I can physically work with my truck...
Ya, I'm thinking 2....______________________
PC 2150
* Length 13.0"
* Width 6.80"
* Height 9.40"
* Weighs 75 lbs
Sure this thing is big but you can make it fit
Ali
*TOTAL EDIT*
I'm looking at this now- I'm going with the Surepower system- Automatic with the ability to tie together. Like the Hellroaring, but cheaper. I'm planning on winching and starting from the main, and running 4 Lightforce, 2 Hella 550's, a CB, and a HAM from the Aux Battery.
That big one seems like a beast and it's mountable for a main, but I'm not sure wher to mount it as a aux battery. I'm still trying to figure out where, but that may have to wait until I can physically work with my truck...
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I made a battery tray with bracket to hold and relocate my Cruise Control actuator and Coil/Igniter. Works really well with the Optima battery because of the size.
