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Radd Cruisers

Radd Cruisers

Joined
Sep 28, 2002
Threads
558
Messages
8,122
Location
Kamloops, BC Canada
Website
www.shopraddcruisers.ca
I thought it fitting to start a new thread since we are starting to rap up this project.

1HZ H55 Split case SOA OME Hydro assist 37MTRs Opposite Lock fuel tank.

One question to all, the cross memeber is so far forward (factory position) that I cannot clear it with the front drive shaft under full droop. Even with a CV off a later cruiser, it would take a fair bit of grinding on the cross member to have it clear.

My next option is the drive shaft is to short anyways, what if I had a spacer machined to go between the drive shaft and flange. After measuring it looks like a 4 inch space would make the drive shaft clear and also solve the cross member issue.


Digi has dead batteries, some shots later tonight.
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a 4 inch spacer might cause the front to bind or vibrate badly... I'd try a combo of the two...notch and SMAllller spacer....just a thought tho....good luck..looks sweet.
 
Rob, I had to (well, Mudrak had to) modify the front cross member on mine to fit the front driveshaft. He notched it, then reinforced it. I've also seen several custom crossmembers.

As I understand from Tom, this is going to be an expedition/long-distance runner, I would stay away from a d-shaft spacer, especially one that long.

Finally, I'd *strongly* suggest de-arching the OME's, that's going to be a really tall truck. I ran mine with SOA OME's for three years and it was great, but after I de-arched them on Gary Cobberly's suggestion (and with his help), it became FANTASTIC. Much more stable on and off road.

Dang, those wheels/tires look good! :)
 
Exiled said:
Rob, I had to (well, Mudrak had to) modify the front cross member on mine to fit the front driveshaft. He notched it, then reinforced it. I've also seen several custom crossmembers.

As I understand from Tom, this is going to be an expedition/long-distance runner, I would stay away from a d-shaft spacer, especially one that long.

Finally, I'd *strongly* suggest de-arching the OME's, that's going to be a really tall truck. I ran mine with SOA OME's for three years and it was great, but after I de-arched them on Gary Cobberly's suggestion (and with his help), it became FANTASTIC. Much more stable on and off road.

Dang, those wheels/tires look good! :)
Click to expand...

What CV did Gary use?

We are using a later model CV off a cruiser, I think the mini truck units have better angle.

I am not sure if Tom wants to de arch the springs, I feel it is to tall also. Maybe he will drive it for awhile. Plus there is a pile of gear going on this truck which may help lower it?

Thanks
 
I concur with Henry, gary did a great job of rebuilding my crossmember :) He took a large chunk out and then welded in a piece of pipe to make it strong...I have since soild the crossmember but it went to cruisers brett in san diego he might still have it or maybe could get a pic for you...
 
I used a stock FJ60 CV style drive shaft that was nade to my length. The CV is about 6" long and wants to run pretty straight so it could help with the xmember issue. I had JK Customs build me a new xmember when he did the antiwrap bar for the rear. I didn't have clearance issues but needed a custom mount for KluneV/t-case install.
Picture 001.webp
 
Wrong last pic, that was of a drill I thought I would only use once. What da ya know I got more use out of.
DSC00638.webp
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http://www.stainlesstrays.com/

I got two of those a couple of years ago, they're the bomb! Identical in dimensions to the OEM trays, and you can get them LHD and RHD for dual battery setups. Very bling, but very durable too, the OEM's I took out were paper thin from the corrosion.

I believe you can get them from Urban Land Cruisers too.
 
Those trays are big time dingy blingy, super quality.

Stuck in the fuel filter last night, the thing is hudge, anyways I ran the fuel lines also on the drivers side of the frame. Bit of a mock up, now I think it should go down the passenger side due to the exhaust heat and the fuel tank fittings are on that side.

Easy fix, might just run a hard line across the fire wall to the filter.

Next we will figure out were to mount the pusher fuel pump, pretty sure its going real close to the fuel tank.

Rob
DSC00641.webp
 
I believe that is a 490 that I sent Rob.

I hoped that he could make it fit.

The bigger the fuel filter the better.



TB
 
Never would of fit that filter if we had used the original HJ vacume boost clutch master, but since the body is a gasser tub it warranted the original clutch master.

I work by myself again and look for feedback on the build, the more eyes the better.

Rob
 
Painted and back to assembly.

Body was much worse than though, major crush in the drivers door pillar, back corner pushed in hard and had to cut out and replace. Numerious dints on rocker panels, roof crushed and need pulling.

Pretty happy with the outcome.

80 series brake master.

Snorkle and funky japanese marker lights.

Rob
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I like the Kaymar, posed a little troublesome on install, had to use the jack and pry bar to make fit.


Just picked up this Hitachi drill, I had the option of buying two new batteries for my dewatl 12 volt which is many years old or get this new drill kit with 1/2 inch carbide chuck for the same price as the two batteries....

Sometimes your not sure if you are making a good buy, well after drilling holes in the frame with 1/2 inch shank bits, Im sold this is one of the better tools I have purchased in a long time.


Oh...... on top of the sale price Hitachi is offering a 50 dollar rebate.

Rob
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Nice to see her coming together Rob. Thanks.
 
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