You've got a 13 year old fan clutch in there, it wouldn't surprise me at all to see an improvement with the addition of an electric fan.
Original fan clutch maintenance
- Thread starter KliersLC
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You've got a 13 year old fan clutch in there, it wouldn't surprise me at all to see an improvement with the addition of an electric fan.
Quick question... Is there a way to determine if the clutch is dead, other than overheating the engine? I've heard that some people have put their engines up to operating temp, shut them off and checked if their fan moved freely. If they could spin it by hand, then it was shot, but if it had a noticeable drag then it was OK. Is it a proven method or just some gossip?
I knew mine was toast because I could turn it when the truck was off and feel resistance then free play...toasted. I got the blue one and it was nice and resistant all the way through the range of rotation.
RavenTai's mod also helped...showed a higher than average overall op temp, but no overheat. Swapped to the blue and it runs much cooler overall, with only hot days and traffic with AC causing it to climb, or if I point it up a several mile incline on the highway and try to maintain speed
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RavenTai's mod also helped...showed a higher than average overall op temp, but no overheat. Swapped to the blue and it runs much cooler overall, with only hot days and traffic with AC causing it to climb, or if I point it up a several mile incline on the highway and try to maintain speed
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That's exactly how I determined that my Blue clutch had a problem. After sitting over night the oil inside the clutch settles to the bottom of the clutch. When you first start up the engine the oil is cycled into the front reservoir of the clutch and during this process you get the roar that we have talked about at start up. After that, as the engine comes up to temperature the bimetal spring on the front of the clutch opens an internal valve and allows oil to start the cycling again. The amount the valve opens determines how much oil cycles and the amount of drive transfered.
So in my case I was severely over heating and the clutch spun freely which indicated a problem which turned out to be a timing issue with the temp spring as it wasn't opening the valve.
So the short answer is yes, if you are up to temperature and shut the engine off the fan should only spin 2 or 3 blades worth with a good shove given to it.
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Alternatively, you can use the welding glove method and keep stopping the fan as the engine warms up until it kicks on. You will know when it comes on, it hurts even through welding gloves, plus as you are standing there, you will feel and hear a marked difference in airflow.
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Yes, Dan can get and ship the fluid.
Me and Cattledog have been running OFNA diff lube gotten at hobbytown in our clutches since last year. Both have ran just fine and from talking with Dave a few nights ago, he has taken his clutch apart and there has been no discoloration with the oil that we have typically seen with the Toyota stuff.
I'm not sure what this means but at 1/2 the cost of Toyota and twice the quantity it looks like a winner. We are running the 5k oil but it also comes in 10k. Each bottle will refill two clutches once drained.
I'm not sure what this means but at 1/2 the cost of Toyota and twice the quantity it looks like a winner. We are running the 5k oil but it also comes in 10k. Each bottle will refill two clutches once drained.
The OFNA diff fluid looked perfect in my clutch. I have pics if anyone is interested. They are not exciting, just looks like a clean cultch with clear fluid.
Pics of the hobbytown fluid would be great so I know what to get. I was also just thinking of draining my original clutch and adding a mix of 5 and 10k fluid. I might just order a new Blue clutch and put new fluid in it.
looks like this but in different weights. I prefer to advance the timing and run the 5k stuff.
My poverty pack 80 did not have an electric condenser fan when I bought it after I fitted a stock electric fan it improved the air con a great deal around the city in the heat here. The hook up on the harness was all ready there from the more expensive models. I also tried the fan on my hj75 to see if it improved the aircon on it which it did, but the grill had to be removed for the fan[no good on gravel roads]. I am really surprised to hear you guys say they make no difference. Bit off topic but with my HSV Senator with climate control the aircon will not cool the car if the fuse is blown or out on the condenser fan.
I also see you guys finally got to use the 10,000 cst silicone like we do here. As I pointed out last year this is the only grade sold by Toyota here in Oz.cheers
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I also see you guys finally got to use the 10,000 cst silicone like we do here. As I pointed out last year this is the only grade sold by Toyota here in Oz.cheers
Yep, from my informal drip tests the blue hub fluid appears to be 3000 cst or maybe thinner, what were they thinking?
Yep, from my informal drip tests the blue hub fluid appears to be 3000 cst or maybe thinner, what were they thinking?
It makes me wonder, perhaps for when it's deep freeze time in the mid west and the main part of Canada. After I fitted the condenser fan my son fitted a new dryer and did an evacuate and flush of the aircon and when he regassed it putting in a bit less than the recommended amount of gas which made the system run better again, lower head pressure and head temperature on the compressor. cheers