Recent content by xxtavixx

Thanks for the info! Did you ever get a replacement bell housing and did you ever throw a code for the auto trans?

You use a set of pliers with rubber on the teeth and wiggle it. Its not easy if its been on there a while. I would just plan to order a new insert bypass tube and use teethed pliers. Even with the rubber on mine i had to replace it

Thanks. Now that ive had this on a while it really makes a big difference in my comfort. I will be doing my first longer trip (9 hours one way) and im not dreading it

Like a champ, and FL summers are no joke

Welded it in the vehicle, here is a picture of it welded and smoothed out. And yes, i knew it would require a very good tig welder.

It can, but it appears that its worse than pulling the head. That said, I have resolved my issue. I welded the crack. Well, my wallet welded the crack

80 series. Harrop eaton e lockers. I am under the impression that volts isnt the issue, watts is. I imagine the little bulbs only need like 1.5 watts Edit- i believe i confused myself into the needing a resistor aspect. Should just need a diode

Hello everyone, I'm looking to run some circuits to provide indicator lights to my dash when my lockers are on. I've decided against the complexity of working with the OEM plugs, and will run indicators from the switches (which I cannot see when driving) to my dash. Where I struggle is knowing...

Thanks! Im gona have to reread that one a few times. Nothing like being reminded that your skills with wiring pales in comparison to some others

Hello legends, Ive got e-lockers in my 80, the push buttons are in the factory radial dial location so hard to see. I would like to figure how to make them engage the oem locker lights on the instrument cluster. Has anyone done this yet?

Hello all, I had a separate thread about diagnosing my coolant leak and finally solved it. There is a hairline crack where the bypass tube inserts into the timing cover. As i understand it, replacing the timing cover requires pulling the head off. Im still new to the 80 platform, so I am not...

That's my leading plan. I just cannot justify removing the head to get that off.

Yea, 1131066020 is what I keep coming to - but leary since all the pictures dont look like it. from toyota:

That is my theory, too. I cannot find a part number so far, and I tried for about 45 minutes. I can find a picture of it, but no part number. Which is concerning...

Found the culprit. Hairline crack in the metal where the bypass #1 goes. I will need to see what is involved in replacing that, but it looks like a lot.