Recent content by winestonecowboy

Ah. That tracks. Likely buried in the fusebox I'm assuming

It will take a while, depending on how cold it is. Typically it's a few minutes of repeated tries. I'm 99% positive it is a temperature thing. I drive the truck 7 days a week and it starts up fine and with the same cadence each day. If it was a loose connection I would probably experience it...

That is precisely the question I’m wondering. I feel like it’s something to do with the electronics warming up?

I don't have a spare FOB - just the one. Assuming it's the immobilizer as once it warms up it works fine.

My truck has developed an interesting new issue: when it's below freezing, I get a crank no start every time. Conveniently I've only experienced this when out in the bush camping, as it has been above freezing in town for a couple of months. When I wake up in the morning and go to start the...

Actually, one more thing is on my mind: the sunroof. I've yet to dive into too many threads about this, but recently it has not wanting to come back once receded for both the tilt and slide options. I'm wondering if it's possible the switches are going bad? The sunroof slides forward/backwards...

Alright, new CV and drive flange is in as well as a new caliper. Also put new gear oil in the diffs + transfer case. Process-wise for the CV, it was pretty straightforward - to a point. My ABS sensor was basically welded onto the hub, however undoing it in the engine bay and fishing it through...

The plan was to replace my driver side CV axle/drive flange tomorrow. Got the OEM flange from Cruiser Outfitters and a HD Cardone CV Axle from Rockauto. Decided not to splurge on the OEM CV as I'm on a tight budget right now, but testing the fitment of the CV to flange on my countertop is not...

Funny you mention that - the CV that is giving me issues is a NAPA one. I will likely go non OEM for now as I simply can't afford to drop $400 at the moment, and it needs to be done. Will possibly go Cardone HD. Will be replacing the hub flange and likely the axle seal on the diff as well...

Of course: Hammer Chisels Recommend both. Affordable and got the job done quick. Adding to the ever growing tool collection. I would reccomend starting with a smaller hammer to get the lip of the bushing free so you don't absolutely annihilate the surface on the diff.

Not yet. Right now I'm suspecting: CV, motor/trans mounts, or the cranked torsion bars (or all three).

In other news - I found the clunk None of the front diff mount bushings were in great shape, but this front one was borderline nonexistent. The rubber practically fell out of the center once I removed the bolt/washer. I had a little trouble getting the bushing out of the housing, but a bigger...

Forgot to update the above posting. It was in fact the RMS. Made sure to replacer the oil gallery seal as well while the transmission was out, and has been completely leak free since. Not a cheap fix but a fix nonetheless. Thread here

Update: I bought a bigger hammer Found a compact 3lb hammer and a set of bigger cold chisels on Amazon and made quick work of it all. This is one of those jobs that would be doable in less than an hour if one had a lift and an air hammer, but is certainly possible on the side of the road or...

Smoked is an understatement for how I feel right now. Will revisit after the holidays. Wondering if I should buy a bigger hammer or just bring it to a shop