Recent content by mattcheston

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Here's an undercarriage gallery I did for another message: Imgur Springs and spring hangers/surrounding area could use some love, but everything is in okay shape otherwise.

Priorities have changed, as they do. I have a few other toys recently added, and not nearly enough time to enjoy this as much as an owner should. Hope to be back on mud with something else in the future. Love the Land Cruiser nameplate.

SOLD See craigslist ad for additional pictures and information: 1987 Toyota Land Cruiser Feel free to PM or reply with questions.

Unfortunately not ha. My truck is an hour away from me until it's running again. I'm just accumulating info on remaining tasks that need to be completed when I get back to it. Hopefully this afternoon. Tighten down some fasteners, reinstall the battery, set belt tensions, add coolant, set...

Yep. Two studs/washers/nuts top center. Four big bolts/washers, and the two smaller bolts/washers on the very outer edges (the ears for cylinder 1/6 exhaust). Thanks for the input everyone. I had seen the specified torque for the head > manifold bolts on the engine FSM page posted earlier, but...

I see the "Specified Torque for Standard Bolts" section with various bolt grades, etc., but I couldn't find anything that seems to apply to a 10mm flanged nut. Could be that I'm misreading something? The standard torques table also comes with the following disclaimer that I'm guessing would...

Anybody know the specified torque for the nuts/studs that hold the downpipe to the bottom of the 2F manifold? Can't seem to find it anywhere in the engine or chassis/body fsm.

I left the other side as-is since the riser shaft kinda just sits in the factory installed fitting on that side (internal to the manifold) but doesn't go all the way through.

I just brushed the surface rust off and oiled it. No new coating.

Had this done to fill the (now removed) heat riser bushing location. M20 threaded stainless plug with a copper gasket. In retrospect should have done this before planing as I had to separate the manifolds again to have the riser mod done. Hopefully everything seals up again after I put it back...

Yeah, should be one key to rule them all. Mine is all matched up as it should be. Seems lots of people replace the ignition cylinder when it gets difficult to start, but a fresh cut key usually does the trick in my experience.

Man, if this weren't true of nearly the entire OEM 60 parts catalog these days. I dropped about $1k on my OEM clutch refresh earlier this summer. Went to an OEM 3FE alternator? $300. I'm used to it.

The more of the thread-and-plug fixes I see, the more I like that over welding. I think that will be my preference, with a blockoff plate and some additional choke time on cold warmups. Now....hoping those exhaust horn ring seals are still available? Looks like I need two per horn?

Thanks for the referral. I will probably hit this up in any case but do you know if he specifically has experience with these manifolds?