Recent content by LWA55DAL

I am pretty sure you need to be at the dealer and they will need to use TechStream to do it. That said I think either a Toyota or Lexus dealer can do it on either brand as TechStream will identify the vehicle when it is plugged in.

For the record - none of the kits I built every resulted in crank/no start but using various wire sizes and new and old relays they both got hot. Crimp connectors, heat crimp, etc. I didn’t solder the connections as I got good crimps and made sure of that. The only reason I replaced the fuse box...

Maybe the relay but I did install the newest relay from the dealer when I built the kit. As mentioned - I built quite a few of them and also alternated relays - same heat issue. Just problem solving but maybe it was the relay. The new fuse box came with a number of relays but NOT the EFI relay...

By popular request here are the pictures from my old fuse box and the wires. I used one of the open fuse locations to power the relay and as you can see the post relay side is what got hot. Again - this was only on longer drives but in Texas it’s pretty typical to drive 3 hours and that’s when...

Toyota upgraded the fuse box in ‘02 or ‘03 and this eliminated the issue. I purchased a NEW OEM with the newest part number avaialble so I assume it is the upgraded fuse box. No temp increases on the fuses or EFI relay. If you have a temp gun you can take the temp of the fuses and relay. For...

You clearly don’t understand the issue with the fuse box as a whole. The short and failure of the fuse box is the connection bar that is AFTER the fuse and relay. That is the issue. The short causes an over amperage draw on the original fuse location - blows the fuse, change the fuse - it...

Ok guys - still working the ‘99 100 series I picked up a couple of weeks ago, but I ran into a snag today. The door lock actuator on the drivers side was no fully circling so rather than replacing the motor I ordered the new one from Aisin, as I did with the ‘01 and figured I would also address...

For clarification - the jumper was fused and never blew the fuse and I pulled power from an un-used fuse location in the box. I can sent pictures but the output power past the relay was melting so the issue was downstream of the relay power and between the relay and ECU. The immobilized issue...

I built a couple of them - all 12-14 gauge wire. I don’t have pictures, but I built a couple with heat/crimp connectors and then soldered a couple more up. ALL of them got hot on both sides of the relay and I used 2 different OEM relays (original and new OEM). Driving 30-45 mins a non-issue...

Just an update - so I made the jump harness and it worked about about 2 years then I started get hot wires after extended driving jumping it off of one of the blank fuses locations. I finally ordered the entire fuse box from the Middle East on e-bay and installed it about 2 months ago. Since...

Ok guys. Joining the fun. I just pulled the pans to on the ‘01 LX to finally pin the ARB bumper and realized I have an oil leak coming out of the plastic cover behind the crank. I have 208k on the clock and did everything on the front of the engine at 170k except the AC compressor - literally...

If it’s the water pump, and it could be, then you should see it coming out of the bottom of the crank cover on the crank shaft. I have used the AISIN kit on both of my 100’s, but unless you really know what you are doing - it is simple to miss a bolt or miss a torque setting. I’d suggest...

Guys - I know this is likely answered somewhere in the 100 series threads, but I can't find the reference. I just wrapped up the water pump and timing belt job on a new to me '99 LC and I an curious if there are any issues with converting over to the Pink Toyota coolant as part of the process...

FWIW - I had a VERY early ‘16 and the transmission shifts were horrible in stop and go traffic. I had the software update done at least 3 times at the dealer. Each and every time they could not “duplicate” the issue, but it was obvious if you spent 10 mins behind the wheel. I had them do V1...

Please keep in mind that the OEM alternators can have the brushes replaced. They are a $15 part and the install is rather simple except you do have to pull the power steering pump to gain access to the alternator. If you don’t have a bearing noise or other issue with the alternator - try the...