Recent content by LazarusTaxa

I recently picked up a 100 and unfortunately, though the rest of it is quite clean, mine suffers from a terribly done windshield install... pulling the trim reveals the common rust around the side and top edges... Though, only one area is rusted through (Pic below), I've cut away enough of the...

This is correct... Toyota uses standard bolts for seatbelts. Back at least to the 60 series

I recently picked up a 100 and unfortunately, though the rest of it is quite clean, mine suffers from a terribly done windshield install... pulling the trim reveals the common rust around the side and top edges... Though, only one area is rusted through (Pic below), I've cut away enough of the...

Yeah, thats my thought.. I am clearly an electrical novice, but I believe toyotas (older ones at least) use switched grounds, so this will be my first place to start. Heading out on a 2 week trip tho, so it will unfortunately have to wait a bit for a resolution.

I cross checked the two wiring diagrams I used (mentioned above in post 1071) and the wires circled in red below are the only ones not connected... I don't have rear heat controls (tho I do have a heater under the driver seat), just rear AC... So, the only ones not connected that might matter...

Did you ever solve this? I realize now I'm having the same issue. I assume there must be an accessory 12v hooked up somewhere where a constant 12v needs to be?

I used Napa rebuilds for my 60.. They were fine, not quite OEM quality. I did have to return one caliper because the paint was pretty messed up when it arrived, but that was an easy process. The finish on both now are just "OK" and I do expect they'll rust sooner rather than later. I happened...

Other than B8, the only wires not connected on mine are those related to rear heat (which my LC doesn't have). Now that i've got the illumination and antenna up/down wires identified and connected, I think everything is working properly.. I double checked the Rear HVAC and it seems to work, and...

No idea the reason, but I just replaced all my motors and all of the actuators work great now. Also, you can get new actuators from impex for ~$50 ea...way cheaper than in the US

Im interested in the driver master window control switch panel

Does anyone know what the wire in slot B8 (which came from I3) goes to? FYI for everyone reading this far, I used the pinout sheet posted below and found it was missing important wires. I'm not sure where it came from, but it does not include the wires for the antenna up/down switch (which go...

I dont think its any/much worse than it was before I stripped off the factory coating. one day I have plans to repaint the upper side of the body and when I do that I'm expecting to strip the interior and coat the inside in a spray on sound deadener like lizard skin.

I coated mine with raptor liner after I stripped and primed the bottom side. It's held up well so far.. I didn't want to use anything rubberized for fear that moisture might get behind it and get trapped.

Like an idiot, I took apart my driver master window switch and in doing so, ripped the silicone sheet with the contact pads. Now my lock/unlock switch doesn't work.. Anyone have a driver master window switch I can pick up? All I need is the silicone sheet, so aesthetics, etc, don't matter. But...

Do any of these licence plate light cameras NOT show the guide lines? I am hoping to replace mine with one that doesn't because my Kenwood HU allows me to add them and adjust them to be actually usable?