Recent content by jjdeneen918

I replaced all 4 calipers & bypassed the ABS modulator to fix my pedal feel. YMMV.

You need to get the SpyderTrax Spacers sold by Slee. They are 1.5”. I’ve been running those wheels & spacers for years.

Ok, I’ll bite. What’s the pros & cons of the two kits? Just talking turbo kits. Not all the extras like intercooler, stand alone, ect that the Wits End Co didn’t provide at the time. Apples to apples comparison. I do know I heard the turbo mount is beefier on this, so other goodies? FYI, I...

Yes

You could skip the speaker entirely. I swapped in a LC lower console (loads more space to put things), & then the leather capped top section of the console. I did this when I upgraded my stereo. I put a subwoofer in the passenger quarter panel.

It’s OBDII. The newly released TRD supercharger is being installed on the new engine of the rig. 👍🏻

Just by the above photo only, it’s hard to say 100%. I do think I found it at McMasterr-Carr. Part number 8549T16. $36.10. I ordered it & will show up tomorrow to confirm.

I got some better/more complete pics now that I’m back at the repair shop. It threads directly to the inlet of the manifold. There is an AR adapter fitting to attach the inlet hose to the non vacate side of it.

Those are all my thoughts too. I also google images it, numerous types of valves appeared, but nothing was specific. If anyone knows for sure, a part number or link to a site would be amazing. I haven’t found anything yet myself, at Grainger, or Napa.

It’s part of the under hood manifold system he designed & sold.

Photo of opposite end.

Came off the Wits End air system manifold. It’s got a small pin hole on the main tightening facet that is constantly spewing air, not allowing my rear tank to fill. Hopefully someone can help ID this part. I’m at Grainger now, they can’t identify it either.

Your ignition cylinder could be a likely culprit too. It’s relatively common for the ignition to fail contacts/stay on, would slowly drain battery as well, if there was intermittent contact inside.

Bad door sensor? Would explain dash bulb, dome light, door card bulbs. Also dead battery if left to sit for an extended period of time. I’ve had them intermittently function too. Annoying. $25 new, one per door.

Sounds like a solid plan. Someone needs to make an off-the-shelf kit, ready to ship. Sounds better priced than the $4000 kits I’ve heard discussed on here before. I can’t justify a $4k brake kit, no way.