Recent content by boredfast

In fair condition. All hangers original and in place. You have to supply the rubber bushings etc. Small hole (dime sized) on top of the exhaust near the first resonator that you can have an exhaust shop patch up. Someone wants to pick up for scrap but want to see if someone can use it first...

LA Z will likely take it tonight but if not, you can have a stab at it

Came out of my 210k miled '88 FJ62 that had a bad torque converter. Did a blackstone analysis on it and did not show any metals in the oil above normal, just a lot of friction material from the TC. Free to pick up or I can ship on a pallet for pretty cheap anywhere in the lower 48 (just lmk and...

Let me know who you go with on the windscreen. My FJ looks identical to yours and she's a garage queen. Only difference is an OME lift and 31s. You ever head out to any of the meets? Would love to check out the truck compared to mine.

I would opt to remove the following from the list as they do not service landys this old (62). T&J Offroad Yotamasters

To supplement this thread, I did get parking light bulbs in LED form from superbrightleds.com (PN#194-WWCOB1W). Instead of making an entirely new thread, has anyone had any luck finding replacement gaskets for the parking light lens? Even making their own (and out of what material or where to get?)

Thanks Steve -- I'll do that this week.

@Michael Hanson I have done a lot of research as well and have arrived to the same conclusion. I would "like" to try eek out a few k more miles before dropping the dough. Can you send me any information on those rebuilders? I can have a shop pull the set and I can put it on a pallet to ship...

I can definitely do that. Just so I understand, the process is: 1. Safety Stuff, Truck in Neutral, Parking Brake On. 2. Drop the rear drive shaft on the side going into the diff. 3. Check the pinion for play by trying to move it in a (?) direction? (check for play in the same plane of rotation...

I will do that this weekend when I have a chance to do a long freeway cruise. Engine mounts look fine, prop shaft was balanced and U-joints replaced a few hundred miles ago (I originally thought that was the reason), wheel bearings seem tight and non excessive play. It is pretty bad as its like...

No clue on the cooler, I can try snap a pic tomorrow. Was installed by the PO. Will try the 2nd-3rd trick, that's a good idea. I'll borrow the IR gun from work to see what kind of pan temps I'm getting. Maybe I can get creative and take pics too since thats what everyone likes to see on the forums.

I thought about that too, lubeguard doesnt given any direction on how much per transmission and even sell little wasabi packet sized bottles all the way up to a whole 16 fl oz bottle (???). It does it consistently around 50-65mph and definitely is only happening "on throttle and cruise". Decel...

I've tried a friction modifier, and looks like the PO did as well maybe 10k miles ago for a flush. I did the Rodney flush a few hundred miles ago and the fluid was near black. I think a kinked cooler line may have prematurely killed my transmission. I've since remedied it but the shudder persists.

I have been trying to chase down a shudder in my transmission for quite some time now. I want to try and throw as many variables out the door before dropping a staggering $5,000 to pull the trans and transfer off, replace the torque converter, and put it back in the car. One of those variables...

Does anyone have a recommendation for transmission work on a '62 in the southern california region? All the shops I've called on the list have 1) not gotten back to me 2) dont work on trucks this old