Recent content by ARKginger

@joyRidaz Were you ever able to solve your symptoms? I'm having the exact same issue

I'm running 1" spacer and rock warriors. That's interesting on the pressure, I got the recommendation here that the RCTIP should be 33psi. That's good to know. The LCAs were replaced (OEM complete unit) last year when I added the wheels/tires. I replaced the front shocks a few years ago...

Kenda Klever R/T Load D 35*10.50R17LT D 121 R

I'll need to double check, but I don't believe I maxed it out. By cupping I mean the outside of the tire is wearing more than the inside causing it to 'cup' similar to this image. It's pretty noticeable when it starts because at lower speeds the tires make an unusual noise. I've had it...

What's the consensus of running an aftermarket UCA on the 570? I'm running the Kenda 35x10.5s with the AHC adjusted and I've been dealing with issues of the tires cupping from insufficient camber adjustment to get a good alignment. Is this something everyone deals with to an extent or do I need...

So I’ve been experiencing this problem for a bit now. Started randomly, replaced the filter correctly after consulting this thread and that didn’t fix it. Left the rig on the battery charger to see if there was a drain, and that didn’t fix it. I’ve also cleared the codes to no avail. I’ve also...

That’s correct. I’m not familiar enough with the LC to say for certain one way or the other of it would clear.

I have a picture earlier in the thread showing it ‘clearing’ the panhard new, but I’d say roughly 3/4 tread should give you plenty of room. I’m not sure how many miles that is with the type of driving you do.

Also, as an update to this thread, I ran a new full sized spare at 33psi under the vehicle for a year over various terrain from AR to CO. After having some alignment/wearing issues I rotated in the spare and did notice it had rubbed the panhard bar, now I've got a slightly worn full sized spare...

I'm running these on Rock Warriors on an LX570 with a mild sensor lift. Trimming/remolding will be necessary

If you're lucky and willing to shop around you might be able to find a lower mileage rear like I did using car-part.com. The place I got my rear third member from was in Alabama. I suspect the biggest issue going with a new Toyota gear set is cost. I don't know a lot about gear setup at all...

You might want to go back and re-read this thread and look at some of the pictures. Once you change the 'tail' of the diff with the one you pull off of your cruiser diff as illustrated by Teckis, it will fit in your cruiser. If you're asking if the whole 4.10 clamshell/front diff is the same...

That's what I was trying to say but didn't articulate it well. Most yards separate the front diffs by gear ratio and engine size. You'll want a 4.30 from a 5.7. As far as actual markings I am unsure, I didn't check mine.

No you do not need to open the AHC. The real question is if you want to remove the CV axle from the wheel hub or not. It can be done either way

Pretty sure I pulled it as much as it was going to go. I'll run it this way and see if I run into any issues