Recent content by Amski

I recently replaced my seats with Katzkin as well, but inverted the color from the OP. I also used a different design that's a little more dramatic. I wanted to accentuate the two-tone interior throughout. I'm sure this is not to everyone's taste, but given the number of people who commented...

Just looked back at my records. Service included TB, WP, idler, tensioner, seals and thermostat for $1,050. I don't know what the dealer did on yours, but insane is a pretty strong term for a service that routinely is in the ~$1,000+ range.

I don't know how serious you are about North Carolina, but I had my 180K timing belt/WP service done at H&H Automotive in Charlotte for ~$1,100 IIRC. That shop is chock full of Cruisers all the time so you can rest assured that you're getting competent service, and it's a good price.

Did you use the software included with the new cable you got off Amazon? I just ordered the same since it's compatible with Win10. Just curious what you did to get everything to work.

Sure, here are some pics. Let me know if any other angles would be helpful. From some initial research, some sites seem to suggest that front bumpers between 2002-2007 or 2003-2007 are the same, but other sites suggest 2007 is different from the others. Will continue to research.

I'm looking for front and rear bumper covers for a 2007 LX470. I believe the cladding color code is UCA31 (Dark Gray Metallic), as this is paired with 202 (Black Onyx) body paint. I'm replacing mine because the prior owner really did a number on them. Looking for covers that wouldn't require...

BTW, Home Depot has a 10-qt mixing bucket with quart/liter gradations for painters that costs $3. Clutch.

@boobird Below are pictures of the transmission cooler line location for more context. Take off engine under cover #1 so you can see the underside of the radiator. If you're looking back towards the truck from the radiator, you'll see the metal cooler line with rubber hose attached right up...

I got the same reply from the Toyota parts department although they did have one in stock so I just picked it up. The guy did concede that it’s understandable since you can’t pull the filter out and clean thoroughly, you have to go a little blind. I decided to just replace it. Call me paranoid.

Yes for sure. I understand what they are conceptually but I haven’t taken the time yet to identify them and start the process. Hopefully later today.

Thanks. Definitely going to complete the full exchange via trans cooler line. Fluid was pretty dark, although no debris to speak of in the pan other than the small amount of fine sludge around the magnets.

Hi all, quick update with observations and questions for anyone willing to help. I drained and dropped the pan this afternoon. I took my time and it went refreshingly smooth. See pictures. (1) For anyone planning this job, I used a 3/8" socket wrench with 3" extension to universal joint to 10mm...

But I'm really good at overthinking things. Unfortunately this forum tends to exacerbate my tendencies, it's like crack! Appreciate the sanity check.

I'm preparing to do this job as a COVID break but I don't have a 1/4" torque wrench, same as OP. Anyone have a decent way of approximating ~3 lb-ft of torque on each of the pan bolts? Seems like not much more than hand tighten + 1/8 turn. Or maybe tighten with a socket screwdriver? Any thoughts...

Thanks for the response. I ended up just paying for new ones because I needed to get the truck done.