1HDT ticking - getting worse

[finderscuba]

I know these engines make some ticking noises pretty much normally. Mine, however, has been steadily getting louder over the past few months. On idle, it sounds fine. Rev it up and it sounds fine. While driving there is a fairly loud ticking under very mild acceleration, or coasting. It sounds like it is coming from the RH side but I cannot tell for sure. Did I mention that at idle the sound is gone? Very difficult to diagnose when the sound only occurs while driving. The sounds is kind of metallic, but not overly alarming. Kind of sounds like fingernails tapping an aluminum can.

More information: the sound only manifests itself after the engine is warm. This leads me to believe that it may possibly be ACSD related - even though that's on the LH side.

History: oil level is good - been running 15W40 Rotella T. Only using genuine Toyota oil filters. BEBs were replaced this summer. The sound was there before the replacement, and did not get worse immediately after replacement. I have a very small bit of oil weeping down the LH side of the block. But oil level never drops on the dipstick. The PO removed the stock air cleaner and fitted a cone K&N. I've just cleaned and re-oiled this.

I have not checked the valve clearances yet. I've been enquiring about where to get shims before I pull the valve cover. But the sound was basically not there last winter.

So, ACSD? Valves? Or something else? Truck runs beautifully despite the sound - a bit smokey (gray and black) but has plenty of power. The ticking is ruining my driving enjoyment though.

 

[Cancruiser]

As I mentioned (maybe to you in an earlier post, don't remember), mine has the same noise. Incidentally, the sound in mine has been getting louder and louder too and I was getting worried. Last week, she was due for an oil change and I changed it to my winter blend (Delo 5W40 Synth) and the sound got a lot quieter. Not gone, but much less.
I'd say carry on driving and don't bother, maybe next time do an oil change to a Synthetic and see what happens.
Can you record a bit of short video with the ticking sound just to double check it is the same like what I have? I will try to do the same and post in in U-tube or something

 

[finderscuba]

Interesting thought on the oil. I bought the truck last November and ran it all winter on the oil and filter that were in it. The PO had just changed the oil but I had no idea what brand/grade. I put in 15w40 dino oil this past spring and I'm pretty sure that's when the noise started getting louder. I also put in fresh oil when I changed the BEBs later in the summer. The sound was the same after the change. I just bought some 0w40 full synthetic that I will be putting in this weekend. I will be checking if this makes any difference with the sound. I'll also try to experiment getting some sound clips before I change the oil.

I've never experienced a sound difference between oil grades on any of my vehicles before. Interesting. What are your thoughts on the cause of the ticking? Insufficient oil in the top end? Seals leaking?

 

[lshobie]

Ticking is one of the biggest reports from cruiser owners with the 1HDT and the 1HZ engines, I think it has something to do with the injection pump - but won't know for sure until I rebuilt one.

 

[Previa Diesel]

Doesn't the sticker on the rad top say to use 10W-30 in summer and 5W-30 in winter?

Could be the engineers at Toyota know best.

Consider the possiblity of 'injector nailing' also. Biodiesel or proprietary cleaners would help. Maybe it's time for an overhaul and reset on the injectors. Probably hasn't been done since new.

What kind of lubricity additive do you use? biodiesel is the best by far. Some of the commercial ones have been shown to be worse than nothing acc. to one study I saw.

Biodiesel will also clean out the residues in the tank, lines, filter, pump and injectors. Probably best to introduce it slowly and build up to 100% useage. Then gradually reduce if you wish to.

Summer is a better time to use biodiesel of course, but as long as it is made with decent oil and done properly it should look and work fine down to freezing temps and maybe lower.

 

[Falco80]

Throw that K&N cone filter in the bin firstly and get some real filtration on there. Are you sure your not over analysing the ticking sound. It annoys the hell out of me too, especially driving besides concrete barriers with the window down.
Unless this is a new ticking noise and not the regular noise that the 1HD's seem to have, then i think i'd just turn the radio up and drive it!

 

[Previa Diesel]

Throw that K&N cone filter in the bin firstly...

That's not a filter, that's a strainer!

 

[Tapage]

how it's the injectors spray pathern .. more of the ticking noise that I listen down here it's piston slap .. don't worry that much, keep using it and saving money ..

How much ok over it .. ?

 

[roscoFJ73]

At what range of rpms is the ticking ?

 

[Cancruiser]

I have done a bit of research online when mine started the ticking business. Bottom line: there is no definitive cause and no cure either and it is more of an annoyance than an actual problem. Some say it is a piston slap, other said it is crankshaft flex. Here's what I found online, that'll keep you busy for a while:

1hz crankshaft flex @ ExplorOz
http://www.4wdaction.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=48307
Toyota 1 HZ engine noise. [Archive] - Australian 4WD Action Online Forums - the 4WD, 4x4 and offroad truck community. Get the latest tips, news, reviews, images and video clips.
http://www.4wdaction.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=43847

 

[Cancruiser]

I have done a bit of research online when mine started the ticking business. Bottom line: there is no definitive cause and no cure either and it is more of an annoyance than an actual problem. Some say it is a piston slap, other said it is crankshaft flex. Here's what I found online, that'll keep you busy for a while:

1hz crankshaft flex @ ExplorOz
http://www.4wdaction.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=48307
Toyota 1 HZ engine noise. [Archive] - Australian 4WD Action Online Forums - the 4WD, 4x4 and offroad truck community. Get the latest tips, news, reviews, images and video clips.
http://www.4wdaction.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=43847

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Adjust your valves...


~John

 

[finderscuba]

Throw that K&N cone filter in the bin firstly and get some real filtration on there. Are you sure your not over analysing the ticking sound. It annoys the hell out of me too, especially driving besides concrete barriers with the window down.
Unless this is a new ticking noise and not the regular noise that the 1HD's seem to have, then i think i'd just turn the radio up and drive it!

The sound was not there last winter. It has progressed over the summer. Driving beside other cars, high curbs - the sound is pretty loud.

At what range of rpms is the ticking ?

I rarely go over 2500 rpm, usually keep it around 1500-2000. But it makes the sound throughout most of the band.

Doesn't the sticker on the rad top say to use 10W-30 in summer and 5W-30 in winter?

Could be the engineers at Toyota know best.

Consider the possiblity of 'injector nailing' also. Biodiesel or proprietary cleaners would help. Maybe it's time for an overhaul and reset on the injectors. Probably hasn't been done since new.

What kind of lubricity additive do you use? biodiesel is the best by far. Some of the commercial ones have been shown to be worse than nothing acc. to one study I saw.

Biodiesel will also clean out the residues in the tank, lines, filter, pump and injectors. Probably best to introduce it slowly and build up to 100% useage. Then gradually reduce if you wish to.

Summer is a better time to use biodiesel of course, but as long as it is made with decent oil and done properly it should look and work fine down to freezing temps and maybe lower.

No sticker on my rad.

I've been using fuel additives from Canadian Tire. I don't recall the brand but it kept the fuel flowing last winter so I suspect it works pretty good. I've been thinking of pouring a cheap bottle of canola oil in with each fill. I'm not sure if that stuff will flow in the cold though.

As far as I know, there is no commercially available biodiesel in Winnipeg.

Adjust your valves...


~John

I haven't been able to locate a source for shims yet. I don't want to have to order them and have a week of downtime. This is my daily driver.

 

[roscoFJ73]

I have done a bit of research online when mine started the ticking business. Bottom line: there is no definitive cause and no cure either and it is more of an annoyance than an actual problem. Some say it is a piston slap, other said it is crankshaft flex. Here's what I found online, that'll keep you busy for a while:

1hz crankshaft flex @ ExplorOz
HZJ105 1HZ engine ticking noise. ( Crankshaft Flex ) - Australian 4WD Action Online Forums - the 4WD, 4x4 and offroad truck community. Get the latest tips, news, reviews, images and video clips.
Toyota 1 HZ engine noise. [Archive] - Australian 4WD Action Online Forums - the 4WD, 4x4 and offroad truck community. Get the latest tips, news, reviews, images and video clips.
1HD-T tick tick tick (again) - Australian 4WD Action Online Forums - the 4WD, 4x4 and offroad truck community. Get the latest tips, news, reviews, images and video clips.

I have also read many of these theories but I always have a hard time getting my head around crank flex.
Its locked down by 4 studs and the main bearings every few inches. Its hard to imagine it flexing at all

I rarely go over 2500 rpm, usually keep it around 1500-2000. But it makes the sound throughout most of the band.

Mine comes in about 1800 and then goes away at 2200 rpm. It needs the right amount of load on the engine, too little or too much and it goes away.
Mine also comes on when its reached its operating temp,usually in about 7-8 mins.
Ive had the BEBs done and the noise has gotten worse but only very slightly ,if any,in 60000 klms
It sounds like its coming from just one cyl/piston.

Ive given up worrying. Asked a couple of mechanics to listen but they cant hear it. I suspect their hearings been affected by their job.

 

[Previa Diesel]

Good links Cancruiser!

1hz crankshaft flex
Submitted: Saturday, May 26, 2007 at 19:59
AaronBarrel
This is a follow up to a previous post that I submitted regarding my 105 series 1hz with a inconsistent ticking noise coming from the motor. I thought that i was finally going to get the crank replaced after 2 1/2 months of disputes with my local dealer and Toyota Australia. But no I had 2 Toyota techs from melbourne come down and confirm the noise to be Crankshaft flex which was the original diagnosis from my dealer, Any way at the end of the day Toyota acknowledge this problem and say. And I qoute "There is no concern that a failure would occur from the crankshaft. Replacement of parts is not expected to eliminate the noise". My dealer told me that toyota have changed a lot of cranks and the noise just comes back after 10 or 20 000 kms from what I can understand it is the actual block that is out of wack which causes the crank to flex in turn making this noise. Lovely on Toyota's behalf its an absolute disgrace.

So there's a possible answer: green castings or inconsistent scrap metal used to cast the blocks causing warpage. I see posters on the other threads have been told the same thing.

I was told by a BMW tech that BMW did this back in the 80s when they were selling cars hand over fist and couldn't keep up: shipped engines with green castings. Some seized solid and some didn't. BMW replaced the ones that did no questions asked - and of course no publicity!

Reading the last two links though....there are people saying their experience was oil changes and fuel changes stopped the noise, at least temporarily. (The additional lubricity of biodiesel might be your best and cheapest first option. Ask around, do an internet search, you'll find there are people in your area making the stuff.)

Everyone should remember the issue of JDM spec oils vs. non-JDM and the affect on OEM/JDM 1HDT bearing shells of using non-JDM oils?

Fuel quality may also be a factor. Try different brands. Install a Frantz filter after your stock filter. No particulates or water will get past a Frantz.

 

[UpsideDown]

I haven't been able to locate a source for shims yet. I don't want to have to order them and have a week of downtime. This is my daily driver.

I keep them in stock...

Follow the procedure in the manual for measuring the clearance, and pay particular attention to the cold specification for doing this. You will likely find that some of your valves are too tight.

Then call me at my shop (Radd Cruisers) and tell me what ones you want (by thickness, not by the Toyota alphanumeric code system) and I'll send them out to you.

You will likely only need a few new shims.

Badly adjusted valves on these engines will sound horrible - like a loose/worn wrist pin, bad bearings, hammering etc.

~John

 

[LanceCruiser]

When my engine started to make a slight valve clatter noise, I had my valves shimed, and that wasn't the problem. I had my ACSD removed, and found that it was failing and was leaving metal filings in the IP. If I would have removed it sooner, it would have only cost me $25 in parts to put on a blanking plate. The pin on ACSD never broke off, but it was jamming and getting hammered. We were hoping a purge would be enough to clean out the pump, without having to do a costly rebuild. Unfortunately, I recently had the IP rebuilt by Raj at Fred Holmes. Raj said that the injector nozzles were going too. I have a noticeable clacking noise now, which only happens around 1500-2000 RPM. At idle it's fairly quiet, and at speed, but when I'm just tooling around town at those RPM it get's noisy. He notice the engine shake through the 1500-2000 RPM range. My truck has 190,000kms on it, and I doubt the injectors have never been replaced. How many kms do you have?

 

[finderscuba]

I keep them in stock...

Follow the procedure in the manual for measuring the clearance, and pay particular attention to the cold specification for doing this. You will likely find that some of your valves are too tight.

Then call me at my shop (Radd Cruisers) and tell me what ones you want (by thickness, not by the Toyota alphanumeric code system) and I'll send them out to you.

You will likely only need a few new shims.

Badly adjusted valves on these engines will sound horrible - like a loose/worn wrist pin, bad bearings, hammering etc.

~John

Thank you John. As I mentioned, the valves will be done next spring. I will keep you in mind when I'm looking for shims.

When my engine started to make a slight valve clatter noise, I had my valves shimed, and that wasn't the problem. I had my ACSD removed, and found that it was failing and was leaving metal filings in the IP. If I would have removed it sooner, it would have only cost me $25 in parts to put on a blanking plate. The pin on ACSD never broke off, but it was jamming and getting hammered. We were hoping a purge would be enough to clean out the pump, without having to do a costly rebuild. Unfortunately, I recently had the IP rebuilt by Raj at Fred Holmes. Raj said that the injector nozzles were going too. I have a noticeable clacking noise now, which only happens around 1500-2000 RPM. At idle it's fairly quiet, and at speed, but when I'm just tooling around town at those RPM it get's noisy. He notice the engine shake through the 1500-2000 RPM range. My truck has 190,000kms on it, and I doubt the injectors have never been replaced. How many kms do you have?

It's getting a bit cold here to be working on Rocinante, so I will likely do the ACSD blanking plate next time it "has" to come in the garage. Means I have to take the roof rack off, and heat the garage. Or else I'll add that to the list of spring maintanence items.

I've got about 170000kms.

I put in a fresh Toyota oil filter and some 0w40 synthetic oil yesterday and I would say the ticking sound has decreased by 50-75%. Oil pressure came up almost instantly as well. It sounds more like how it did for the first several months I owned it. Obviously it does not like 15w40 Rotella. I will run 0w40 or 5w40 synthetic year round from this point on. I also spent some time greasing all the u-joints. Found a swivel seal leaking grease too. I'll replace both sides this week.

 

[Radd Cruisers]

I put in a fresh Toyota oil filter and some 0w40 synthetic oil yesterday [...]. Obviously it does not like 15w40 Rotella. I will run 0w40 or 5w40 synthetic year round from this point on. I also spent some time greasing all the u-joints. Found a swivel seal leaking grease too. I'll replace both sides this week.

These engines are designed for 10W30 oil and not 15W40.

Some more modern engine can have serious problems if you run the incorrect oil, as the tolerances and oil clearances are too tight for grades other than what is specified. Some manufacturers are specifying synthetic oils are the only ones to be used...

The synthetic for cold weather is a good idea.

~John

 

[Cruisin']

These engines are designed for 10W30 oil and not 15W40.

Some more modern engine can have serious problems if you run the incorrect oil, as the tolerances and oil clearances are too tight for grades other than what is specified. Some manufacturers are specifying synthetic oils are the only ones to be used...

The synthetic for cold weather is a good idea.

~John

Oh my! This is the first time I've heard that 10w30 is what should be run in the 1HD-T. Where is that info from (not trying to argue or question, I just like to know I've got the facts straight before making a change)?

Any recommendations on an oil based on this? I'm assuming its still good to use an oil specifically formulated for use in a Diesel?

I've been running Rotella 15w40 with good results (also a good deal at WallyWorld), but will happily change if that's not the right stuff for my engine.