PHH time

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Sep 23, 2011
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Looked up and what did I see....pink crusty fluid looking back at me. Any words of wisdom? Wish me luck!
 
Read some old threds with pictures, get all the tools needed. Change your thermostat and flush your radiator. It's really not as bad as people make it seem, if you have skinny arms.
 
I just put a new radiator in with new toyota red. I will catch it and put it back in after I am done. Any other hoses I would need to do? Going to get several feet of gates green stripe tomorrow.
 
I just did mine last weekend. It's really not that bad. Getting the old clamps off was probably the hardest part for me.

Loosen the transmission dip stick tube - that helps. The rest is simply taking your time.
 
Highly recommended: REMOVE THE KNOCK SENSOR BEFORE YOU BREAK IT (the connector end) AND HAVE TO REPLACE IT FOR $$

Just a subtle hint :)

cheers,
george.
 
Just looked up there and gave it a good look. It has regular hose clamps on it...must have been done before??? Already leaking?
 
Just looked up there and gave it a good look. It has regular hose clamps on it...must have been done before??? Already leaking?
Definitely didn't come from T with hose clamps so looks like it was done. You can try to tighten them up with a rachet wrench, but may want to replace with a known quality hose a new clamps.
Most will say to use the constant pressure clamps and silicone hose. I did the rigid pipe work around with the green stripe hose.

Stuff is here or can go to Napa and by their hose and clamps.
http://www.1fzfephh.com/
 
Going to napa in the morning and replacing all heater hoses!
 
My NAPA did not have the gate's green stripe. All they had was some red heavy duty heater hose. It is rubber and not silicone. It is rated at 250 degrees. Will this stuff work?
Thanks!
 
I believe gates red hose is for ATF fluids
 
Pretty sure you want 5/8" NAPA Gold Stripe (made by Gates): Part # H130 and Constant torque hose clamps, part # 705-1500
 
Pretty sure you want 5/8" NAPA Gold Stripe (made by Gates): Part # H130 and Constant torque hose clamps, part # 705-1500

Just got it ordered. Will pick up in the morning. I guess I will take everything apart today and put it back together this weekend. Will report back on how things turned out! Thanks again!
 
Sort of on topic but, why use the red antifreeze? I have heard horror stories about the stuff.
 
Sort of on topic but, why use the red antifreeze? I have heard horror stories about the stuff.

Heard? Please enlighten us. :popcorn:

OP hows your heater valve? Looks original yet? I would just keep an eye on your PHH atm and order all OEM parts from CDan/Beno/Sam. Only takes a few days to get everything.
 
Not for nothing, but when I did my PHH, I pulled the left front wheel and tire, removed the starter and went to town. Access was much improved. While the starter is out, you can replace the contacts, and while you are in there, you can more easily replace the fuel filter, if it hasn't been done in the recent past.

I used silicone hose and regular worm drive clamps. It hasn't leaked....that was like 5 years ago.
 
I don't know if the heater valve is original or not. Also trying to track down a rough idle issue/hum while accelerating and deaccelerating.. Hum is always present but changes depending on what i am doing with the gas. Sounds like a vaccum leak. I know my intake hose is cracked(I have it wrapped).
 
The stories I've heard were probably 10 years ago when I was working as a commercial sales manager. A lot of the "old guys" would gripe about it causing gasket issues/sludge/etc. I have always used green in my cars (except my aircooled VWs :p) without issue.

My 93 has green in it now and I was planning on changing the hoses etc which is why I asked.
 
Tominboise has it right. remove the wheel and starter and you can gain easy access to the hose.

If you mix green and red then you will get a sludge that is not good. Toyota red goes with aluminum heads. It is fine for the 2f and 3fe but for the 1fzfe you have to run the red. You can tell if it has green coolant by the top of the radiator if it is turning brown and by the heater valve if it is turning brown. The PHH will last longer if it has only had red coolant in it.
 
...but for the 1fzfe you have to run the red.

The long, extensive thread in the FAQ (I read the whole thing prior to doing my PHH) says that either the red or the green is fine.
 
The long, extensive thread in the FAQ (I read the whole thing prior to doing my PHH) says that either the red or the green is fine.

As long as they're not mixed.

So if there's green in the engine stick with it. And if there's red in there, stick with that.
 

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