93 Alarm removal (step by step w/pics)

[jdogg]

This is long and pic heavy, so i apologize, but not really. There are so many FAQ's on here that i have used i thought I'd take my time and document this to help others.

Reason i did this was something is draining my battery, not sure if the stupid blinky light was enough, but now that its out, time will tell if i solved the problem.. (i kind of doubt it)

The system in question is :

Step 1. Disconnect battery . Unplug system brainbox. Remove the plastic kick panel, the dead pedal, and i took out the drivers seat to make things easier and to give me space to work. Pull up the carpet to reveal the alarm harness and where it flows into the factory harness.

Follow harness cutting the zipties that hold all the alarm wiring to the factory wiring.

Step 2. Pull out the wiring from the little hole behind the kick panel. You will find a 4pin, and an 8pin connector.

Unplug the 8 pin connectors. it will be obvious which go to the alarm and which sides are the factoy and will stay. the wires are not that long, don't pull to hard.

Put the 2 ends together that are the factory side.
Next, the 4pin connector. Do the same. unplug the alarm side, and plug back together the factory side.

Step 2. Locate the 11pin connector a little further back twards the firewall in that same kickpanel.

Again, unplug the alarm side, and plug back together the factory side.

to be continued....

 

[jdogg]

Moving on to underneath the dash. Remove the lower plastic.

Step 3. you will find this on top of the heater tube, under the steering column,, you'll have to pull out the 14pin connector (white) on the right hand side of the column.

Just as before. Unplug the alarm side, and plug back in the factory side ( wait till after the next step to do this)

Step 5. Unplug the 2 black connectors that hook under the steering column Don't pull to hard these are very short. You will see in the pic where the 2 crimps are into the factory wiring. These must be undone, and the wire must be taped back up.

Again, these are the crimps.. you have to unsnap them, pull out the metal tab then you can simply pull them off. Also in the pic you can see the 14pin connector still unplugged. this will give you a tad more working room.

After you have removed the crimps and fixed the wires plug the 2 connectors back in.

i tape things in green where i have messed with them just so i can blame myself in the future if something goes wrong.. and it also makes it obvious what has been done.

Don't forget to connect the 14pin connector now!

...to be continued.....

 

[jdogg]

Step 5... moving right along... Still under the dash, look to the only wires that are still connecting the alarm to the factory stuff...

you see this :

Behind the fuse panel is the connector that runs the blinking light, and the switch on the dash. You can remove the whole panel ( i just undid the plug and left the panel on the dash.

Step 6.
locate the last wires... they are a little hidden up behind the heating duct .
they go to this: the starter cut-out relay.

Simply unbolt the replay and pull it down out of the way. you could probably unplug this as well, but you already have your screwdriver handy so just loosen the screw and get it out of the way..

Thats it folk, your DONE.. well, you still have to put you dash back together, put your seat back in, and go turn the key. starts right up!! with NO alarm left!,

Draw back is that the power door locks ON THE FOB do NOT work..
my fob was broken, and the battery was dead anyways so this is win win for me.

 

[jdogg]

so in conclusion..
these are the parts you'll end up with.. shown again to clear up any questions..

brain and connector :

The 4pin, the 8pin & the 11pin connector from behind the kickplate..

The 11pin connector under the dash. With the wires that are crimped into the harness.

The starter cut-out relay:

The blinky light harness:

Optional step 7.. If you want total removal, you can always pull off the trim panel between the doors and pull out the sensor wire thing...

Clean underseat area...

The factory wiring all tucked back into the hole behind the kickplate... alarm wiring all removed.

This pic shows whats under the crimp connectors and why i HATE those damn things... it destroys the wiring in there. please people don't use these chese-mo connectors on anything..

 

[jdogg]

Done deal..
Less than an hour i would think, it took me about 2 with taking pics, and screwing around with taking the seat out and such.

And i would say no more than a job. if you can undo connectors, and can open a crimp and put tape over the wire... do it.

i have to give out some props now.. to MAD JACK who pointed me twards this thread : https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/253430-found-hacked-wire-help-me-id.html

post #5 by 96r50 gave me a couple photos that show how the factory puts the system in, i just followed it backwards..
I took his photos, and photoshopped them to make them brighter...
these are the photos i went by.

 

[jdogg]

Enjoy..

 

[BruntForce77]

Thank you for this. This is on my to do list.

 

[Dissent]

Here's a question for you all; can this same harness be modified for a current Directed Electronics (I.e. Viper, Python, etc.) alarm system? I'm looking to replace my 3 foot range alarm with a current Viper and want it easy peasy!

 

[CruiseOrlando]

Here's a question for you all; can this same harness be modified for a current Directed Electronics (I.e. Viper, Python, etc.) alarm system? I'm looking to replace my 3 foot range alarm with a current Viper and want it easy peasy!

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/689936-how-install-aftermarket-alarm-1994-a.html

 

[BruntForce77]

So I'm in the middle of doing this and I have a couple questions. This red wire s coming out of the harness and it goes deep into the abyss. Where does it go, and do I need to remove it at the source, or can I just cut it and tape up the exposed end?

Also, do you really need to undo the pink wire crimp under the steering wheel, and tape them back up, or could you just snip the wire connected to the alarm harness and leave the crimp?

Thanks!

 

[jdogg]

i'm not 100% sure what that red wire of yours is... looks like it might be an afterthought someone put in there, i'd trace it back to either side and see where it goes. And no, you technically don't have to undo the crimps, but there maybe be live power there, and you see in the pics what those crimps do to the wires.. you've come this far, whats another 5 minutes of dealing with the crimps IMO.

If you find out the source of the wire i'd love to know to update this thread.

 

[CruiseOrlando]

I can't tell from your picture, but if that's red and black, there's a good chance that's your parking light 30A circuit.

If there's a tap in there, probe it with a meter and turn your parking lights on. If you see +12V, that's it.

 

[BruntForce77]

Traced it back to another one of those pink crimps. I'm not sure what it does, but I opened up the crimp and pulled it out. I did the same under the steering wheel and left both crimp clips in place. I didn't see a point in pulling them, since they have already been there for almost 20 years. Don't think they are going to do anymore damage than they already have.

Anyway. I put everything back together and so for everything works.

 

[bobthebuilder]

Starting this project now! Great writeup!

 

[Hovawart]

Thanks!!!

On my 97, the brain was above the kick panel as well as the tamper sensitivity adjuster. I pulled the harnesses out of both and started looking for other harnesses to patch them into to get everything back to factory. I could find them and it was 30 degrees, drizzling, and I was working in the driveway. I decided to just hook up the battery and see what happened. It started! However, every door lock now has to be done manually However, I'm just happy to be driving my own truck to work again. I'll sort out the rest later.

 

[jdogg]

glad people are still finding this helpful!
@ Hova... if done right, you should still be able to use the inside auto lock for the doors, but maybe your 97 is different than my 93.

 

[Dissent]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/689936-how-install-aftermarket-alarm-1994-a.html

Thanks for the link but it doesn't apply to my 97, the alarm brain is under the driver's seat. I've had the dash apart and there's nothing on the duct. I suspect his alarm was an aftermarket especially based on the Made in USA on the shock sensor. Just a guess though.

 

[savvy]

Might luck have it that my '92 has this system?
I can't check right now myself as I am out of town.

Cheers!

 

[jdogg]

i am not an expert at telling when toyota used that setup for which years. seems like lots of conflicting reports even from same-year trucks, so you'd really have to know what the remote looks like to tell.

 

[Dazrin]

Does anyone happen to have the pics for this thread still? My alarm is acting up and I want to just get rid of it. Thanks!