Clifford and central locking

[Dave 2000]

Hi all started to get something on the move with the new toy: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/365673-my-lc-80-thread.html

But need some help from the leccy guru's.

I have had a look at some of the search results but they did not help except confirm I had chosen the correct lock/unlock wiring colours.

So, I'm midway in fitting a Clifford and EVERTHING works perfect until I shut the drivers door!! Once the drivers door is shut the alarm will set ok and lock the doors. Press the remote to switch off and unlock and the alarm switched off but the doors will not unlock!

Now the tests I have done:

All doors closed except the drivers door,

Remove alarm connections to central locking, put a direct earth to the blue/yellow, doors lock perfect.

Remove earth and transfer to blue/orange, doors unlock perfect.

Repeat with thedrivers door closed and the unlock command refuses.

Connect alarm lock/unlock wires and again all is perfect, you can do this all day locking and unlocking the doors via the alarm key fob. This is untill you press in the drivers door button i.e. interior light off and the doors refuse to unlock from the alarm or even from direct earthing.
Once you have attempted to open the doors via the alarm or direct earth with the drivers door closed then the system needs 'resetting' from the drivers door via the key, unless you reset via the door key even the door lock control button on the drivers door will refuse to unlock the doors.

I have pulled all the door switches and all appears to be normal with a single wire for earth switching on each one. I pulled the two interior lights and the rearmost one had been modified but only by drawing off a live to somewhere in the drivers side rear door pillar (C), I disconnected this and it appears to do nothing?

I removed the door earth trigger for the alarm thinking this may be related but that did nothing except stop the alarm from sounding whebn the doors were opened which is what you would expect.

So we are left with the fact that closing the drivers door and if you like removing the earth to the interior light and of course the door open light on the dashboard prevents the alarm from unlocking the doors.

By closing the door I am removing an earth from somewhere in the door control system because the door control electronics fail to 'latch' in preparation for the unlock commmand.

This only happens to the drivers door and all other doors work fine.

I consider myself quite 'savvy' with electrics and often build 'one off' electronic gadgets and yet this does not make sense at all, what am I missing?

TIA

regards

Dave

 

[tirewater]

The unlock system requires you to tap into two wires for the unlock. The blue power unlock wire from the Clifford alarm needs to tap into the blue-yellow & blue-orange wires. This connection must be diode separated (the stripe, the cathode side, on the diodes face the alarm side).

 

[tirewater]

Here are some reference links:

wiring connections (from bulldog security's site)

also from the12volt (may require log in)

comprehensive guide from firetruck41

bulldog install guide from heffenoche

 

[Dave 2000]

Thanks for those links, I will have a good look when my headache has gone! Right opposite where I am there are road works and there are a couple of 'peckers' going at the concrete and the constant bang bang bang is driving me and the other half crazy, six weeks we have had this row, I am hoping it is this messing up my concentration and not old age!!

Thanks again, anyone else please feel free to chime in with pics ect,

regards


Dave

 

[lndcruz]

This is what my 95 looks like. Don't mind how ratty everything looks, been meaning to clean it up but have not gotten around to it.

 

[Dave 2000]

Thanks for making the effort with the pics, it seems as if you have two blues and one green, is that correct or just the way my screen 'sees' them?

I understand how the diodes work but have not found out WHY the interior light/door ajar warning is back feeding to the door lock controller and even more perplexed by the fact that it is only the drivers door causing the problem.

Can you actually see the colours that your Clifford is connected too as other wires are blocking the view of the connection? Whatever you can do will help but please do not disturb the wires and end up with something not working.

Thanks again

regards

Dave

 

[tirewater]

The diodes that you see in the last picture are the door trigger diodes used to detect when a door is opened.

 

[lndcruz]

In the picture mine has teal, blue, green, and red.

Green goes to green and red

teal goes to red-blue red-yellow

red goes to blue-black

and i can't tell what the blue goes to in the image.

 

[firetruck41]

Check out the writeup in my sig, should help you a bit. Its for a Lexus, but I have a diagram and description for the lock/unlock wiring/diode.

 

[Dave 2000]

Thanks for the help on this guys/girls (pink fob and all that), I did have a look in my box of tricks and how many diodes did I find? Yeh right ONE! I will get my better half (spanish speaking American) into a white pages today and see if she can find me a hobbyist shop in our little spanish town.

I will get back to you,

thanks again,

regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

OK, today I went back the the alarm having waited nearly four weeks for a pair of diodes. Fit the diodes and no difference, the doors will lock/unlock from the fob without fail UNTILL the drivers door is closed and then it will lock but not unlock!

So I thought **** it! I will leave it connected and it will have to wait because tommorow is big end bearing day, so I put away the tools and start the car and click all the doors lock after 3 seconds, park the car and switch off the engine and lo and behold the doors unlock!!

Clearly I am on to something here, get out of the car press the fob and the alarm arms and locks the doors, press the fob again alarm dis arms and did the doors unlock.......did they hell.

Heads hurting now, I will get the BEB's out of the way because that is playing on my mind and the door unlocking can wait for a mo.

STOP PRESS!! Reading firetruck41's thread AGAIN (thanks for this) I see two diodes for the door trigger as well as two for the remote lock/unlock! Now my door triggers work fine without the diodes.......but would I need them anyway to get my damn doors to unlock keeping in mind today's discovery that they unlock ok when the engine is turned off?

regards

Dave

 

[Jack G. Nichols]

Wow, what a brain spinner. I went to the lock switch in the passenger door nd used those TWO wires rather than mess with all that stuff you have done. Piece of cake. Had to reverse the hook up once, then it worked fine.

Man, I hate those scotch-lock wire taps. Maybe I do not use them right, but I do not trust them. Good luck with those.

Jack Nichols
1993 Toyota Land Cruiser

 

[grizzlygibbs]

Just curiouse, could it be your door switch? Since it works with all the others?

 

[Dave 2000]

Just curiouse, could it be your door switch? Since it works with all the others?

Nope I checked that, if I disconnect it the problem is still there, I am thinking about fighting my way through the loom and getting to the drivers door lock control.

Many thanks

regards

Dave

 

[Jack G. Nichols]

The driver's door lock has only a kazillion (technical term) wires in it, about half what you are working on there. The passenger door (on mine, anyway) lock switch has two. I can deal with two. Mostly.

 

[Dave 2000]

The driver's door lock has only a kazillion (technical term) wires in it, about half what you are working on there. The passenger door (on mine, anyway) lock switch has two. I can deal with two. Mostly.

Can I assume your car is left hand drive? Can you recall the colours that you tapped into?

regards

Dave

 

[Jack G. Nichols]

Left had drive, for sure, good ol' Texas truck. Mine is a 1993 vintage.

I did the install maybe 12 years ago, so no, I do not recall the wire colors. I cannot remember what I had for lunch yesterday.

I was curious if the long (4'+) wire run to the far side of the truck would make any difference, but it did not. I think I had to reverse the connection I made once, as it would lock when I expected it to unlock, and vice versa, but with two wires......... Pretty easy to figure out.

The only problem I have had is last year both my key fobs wore out, and I could not find a replacement, but after much searching found one that works, sorta. Will not allow me to do a silent unlock - not a big deal.

I did notice something interesting today - when I lock the door with the key, the alarm unlock will not unlock that door. When I lock with the alarm fob, I can unlock it fine. My alarm fob locks and unlocks the whole truck at once, as you might expect as it goes through the door lock button.

 

[Dave 2000]

OK at last!! I gave up with all the 'easy' options i.e. diode this and diode that ect because nothing worked for my car and I am still convinced this has something to do with the extra wire I found under the rear interior (dome) light.

As I already knew I could negative pulse the door control button wiring and it would all work I went for the seemingly more difficult option of running two wires into the drivers door through the loom, yes it was a PITA but it is now done and working so thanks for all that took the time with photo's ect, I could be wrong but it may be the subtle differences between the Viper alarm and the Clifford that made it awkward to get it sorted but now it is a job done!!

thanks again all,

regards

Dave