85 4Runner rear drive shaft

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WarDamnEagle

WarDamnEagle

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I took the 4Runner to the mechanic that I've used for years on my imports to diagnose a driveline problem that I couldn't figure out. He just called and said that the rear U-joints are about to fall out and that the drive shaft is so beat up that it needs to be replaced. I started to post this in Jerrod's thread but thought I would start a new thread.

I'm about to start calling a few Toyota specialist yards. Anything I need to be aware of? Just try to find one with low miles and replace the U-joints myself? Anyone have one they want to sell?

Thanks :cheers:
 
I just found 9 of them at a yard in Georgia for $50 each. I don't know if they ship but I've asked for a quote.

Also, I spent 30 minutes on ToyotaDIY.com and cannot find the rear drive shaft or propeller shaft or whatever Toyota calls it. The front one is in the diagrams but not the rear one. What's up with that?
 
I'm actually amazed that the driveshaft hasn't fallen out. Here are a couple of pics from the rear diff end:
4Runner drive shaft 002.webp
4Runner drive shaft 004.webp
 
Eeeeek!

That looks like its original! As for what to do, a good driveline shop will be able to order an end with the same joint size and install/balance it for less than 100, my local one charges 75.00 flat to shorten/balance/weld and 25.00/ft to lengthen. I use a big rig shop. Our joints look like little kittens compared to his regular customers.
 
Lowe Toyota said:
:eek:

Good thing you caught that when you did. That could've caused some serious damage and/or got someone hurt.
Click to expand...

Yep!

I ordered one this morning from yotayard.com in Colorado. $120 shipped to my door. He said they had dozens of them and promised to send a good one. They have a 30 day no question exchange policy. We shall see.
 
are they the greaseable u joints?

if they are, dont just throw any grease you might have in a grease gun in there. it can actually make them fail faster than if you dont grease them at all.

those u joints (or any ujoint for that matter) are designed for a specific type of grease to go in them. putting in the wrong grease can actually cause the bearings to deteriorate, rather than just by wearing out themselves.

i would read the service manual and put exactly what grease Mr. T recommends and nothing else.

My buddy who used to work at a Nissan dealership as a mechanic told me about this. he said in the many years he spent as a service tech, all of the vehicles with the grease able drive train joints (ball joints, tie rods, u joints etc) always failed quicker than the non grease able ones. both oem parts.

what he eventually figured out is that these road side "lube shops" were putting in whatever grease they had in the gun at the time during oil changes and what not as part of their "premium service plan" anyways, it was the wrong grease 9 times out of 10 and just caused the crap to disintegrate from the inside out.
 
Yes I always use the correct grease. Moly fortified Amsoil in the double cardan joint and body and Mobil 1 synthetic in the regular U-joints.

I just drove it and it's smooth as silk. That's quite a relief.

There is still a slight popping noice occasionally when navigating slow turns but it's coming from the front end. Not sure what that's all about but it doesn't sound too serious.
 
Do you have wheel spacers? Mine were not totally tight and I was getting some popping noise. Could be a burfield too
 
Racehoss said:
Do you have wheel spacers? Mine were not totally tight and I was getting some popping noise. Could be a burfield too
Click to expand...

No wheel spacers. It could be a birfield but everything looked good when we rebuilt the front axle which was less than 20k ago.
 
holy crap! i cant beleive you didnt break a u joint before you twisted that whole shaft up like a pretzel.

what running gear are you running? all stock? edit....guess i see ur sig, but are all the axle shafts/ ujoints etc stock stuff

also, whats so good /different about the tacoma shaft that u used for a "hybrid"? the cv??
:popcorn:
 
Front - Longs, nitro gear 5.29s, Aussie locker, square.dshaft, stock joints.

Rear - stock shafts, nitro 5.29 Aussie locker, precision 'HD' joints (broke stock one previously)

4.7 in the tcase with headers and a custom TBI system.

The tacoma cv allowed me to tilt my pinion angle up to get it out of the rocks.
 
cruiser88 said:
Stock tube isnt as strong as you may think. I twisted one and hell I didnt even feel it:D
Click to expand...

I don't know about that as a general statement. I would guess that there was at least a dent or two prior to it twisting. Much of tubing's strength is derived from it's symmetry and any deformation will cause significant weakening.
 
WarDamnEagle said:
Yes I always use the correct grease. Moly fortified Amsoil in the double cardan joint and body and Mobil 1 synthetic in the regular U-joints.

I just drove it and it's smooth as silk. That's quite a relief.

There is still a slight popping noise occasionally when navigating slow turns but it's coming from the front end. Not sure what that's all about but it doesn't sound too serious.
Click to expand...

did you ever figure out that slight popping noise coming from the front end?
 
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