Real time: Lets talk about the 20/22R Hybrid!

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Well, thanks to a PO I suspect used brake fluid instead of oil!


I'm doing an engine swap with my weekend! :)

:mad:


I have a couple of questions, some regarding the swap some maybe not. To let you know where I stand I have heard about the swap but when I've asked about some details I'm not getting the answers I need to hear.

Below are some pics one of what I call "crowned" or "crown top" pistons and below it are standard 22RE pistons. The crown top I discovered after pulling the head on an 84 carb 2WD I bought. But you know PO's :rolleyes:. That could be another motor. This block and any prior to it I have no experience with.


The above is new to me pistons, the below I have seen in countless both R and RE models.


Is the crown top block the one I want with the 20R head?
Is there a way to measure deck heights so I know what chain to get and that I don't need machining? At this time I don't have $ for it.
Will the intake off the current 22(?)R I'm pulling fit the 20R head?
If not will the 22R carb fit the 20R intake manifold I have?


more will come no doubt, ADD break!


thanks!
crown toped piston.webp
std 22RE.webp
 
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Is there a way to measure deck heights so I know what chain to get and that I don't need machining?


Silly question? Can I use this as a gauge? it seems as though one hole is a little higher than the other and I'm puzzled as to why there would be two holes to start with unless it can be used for multiple applications.
guied.webp
 
you dont have to lie to us. admit it, we all know you put dot 3 in there. :flipoff2:

the pistons in the 22r block the one pictured, are what you want to use.

there are options for the chain. you can use the dual row off the 20R, if the sprocket goes on the crank all the way. the oil pump may interfere. if it does and you want to use the dual row, use the collar drive from the 20R on the 22R oil pump.

other wise just use a 22R chain.

for your deck height question, you can do it one of two ways. the ADD way is to slap it on there and try to fit the chain and sproket over the cam. it will be hard no matter if the deck height is wrong or right.

if it fits, put all the head bolts in, and continue on.

the other way is to put both heads on a really clean very flat surface.
measure from the clean surface up to the cam. the best way and spot to measure is with calipers, and use the back claw ( for ID measurements) up into the top side of the sprocket hole.

make sure they use the same sprocket bolt, who knows, you might have some freak AFTMKT cam.

if both heads are the same, cool! if not, go shoot a rabbit, then figure out what you have to mill, the block, or head.
 
Silly question? Can I use this as a gauge? it seems as though one hole is a little higher than the other and I'm puzzled as to why there would be two holes to start with unless it can be used for multiple applications.
put the pipe, down, man. that kind of thought aint gonna get you nowhere :flipoff2:
 
you know the other day when we were talking about this, before you put brake fluid in there, :flipoff2: i decided that im gonna make a video/picture thread about the build of of this type of engine.

i have one in my truck , now, but im gonna slap in a RE in there. so ill make a video once its out.
 
the other way is to put both heads on a really clean very flat surface.
measure from the clean surface up to the cam. the best way and spot to measure is with calipers, and use the back claw ( for ID measurements) up into the top side of the sprocket hole.

The difference in the deck heights is in the block, not the heads. There is almost a 0.20" difference in the heights, you can measure this with a tape measure. Read this:

LC Engineering

There are several ways to confirm which block you have, besides measuring the deck height. Check the exhaust port shape. The older block will have a pan with a gasket, and the drain plug is much larger. The later block will have FIPG on the pan. It will also have the "laser block" tell-tale casting in the side. After '85, all the blocks are the same.
 
thanks for clearing that up.

i have done it this way, and have seen differences between different heads.
that difference must be from milled and non milled, you think?
 
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and my favorite mod of all time!

maybe next time I wont wait to get them on a Thursday.....nobody had them and they had to trucked in from MO. :doh:

..Cloyes p# 9-5025 $14.99 (tension) and 9-5026 $15.99 (slack)
steel guides.webp
 
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Hey Wristy, what grade of fuel do you run yours on?
 
doh-de-doh


which hole do I use?..they are both the same height, just one's an inny and ones an outy??

attachment.php



And my chain has the one bright link top and two bright links bottom? Its the dual row, how do I know which is top which is bottom?

Does the one bright link go to the top and the two straddle the timing mark on the bottom? :confused:




:whoops:
 
pretty sure that's right... They are right opposite of each other aren't they?


Yes two top one bottom, er, visa versa :confused:

Its a 20r "thang" so search and you cant find it, I saw a pic in Chiltons with the two on top so I went for it....wish me luck!


I'll finger it out ;) ....or walk one :o
 
I think my Runner had the same thing. I don't think you can put the chain on wrong, just as long as the valve timing is right.... which is what the handy shiny links are for...


I'm definitely not saying your wrong, its just I've done a million RE's and wherever I get my chains, its one top one bottom,

This old school is new to me......:hhmm: is that a pun? :confused:

when I get it buttoned up I'll know if its not right.


it's weird and I cant find ant specific data, but I should get it close enough to fire and the rest as they say, will be history


knock on wood....and a punch for the PO :D
 
After an exhaustive title search and death threats to the PO I got the 20R head from.....:mad:


Please do yourself a favor and get you about 4 feet of threaded rod.

I just probably broke BOTH the T-stat bolts off in the only 20R intake in the state :crybaby:, result? wont ever happen again!

tomorrow I'm going to Lowes, get me some rod(threaded rod you schmucks!), some locktight and some of those washered bolts that wont sink into the socket, and by golly I'm stud'n her out! THIS WILL NOT HAPPEN AGAIN.

Every engine I ever tear down from this point on, stud's will go back in their place.


Like this,

1021030.JPG
 
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Well, Rip Van Winkle signing back on to say, still trying to breath some life into the project.


1st off, Thanks for the offer to help Wristy, duly noted, and if you ever need something give me a call......heck that goes for anyone! :cheers:


Well look what a trip to pully-part and an 80 I don't have in bucks got me! :hhmm:

.Thats a head, TC cover, TC, steel guides, intake... :grinpimp:

.They were plum outta trucks, but somebody left me a Corona!
20r stuff.webp
 
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