Real time: Lets talk about the 20/22R Hybrid!
- Thread starter Hilux
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #22
good you found an intake
yeah, funny story
, I broke a bolt off on its T-stat housing but made short work of it using the skills and knowledge I lernt f'ing the first one up...
THX, for offering to help
- Thread starter
- #23
Alright Wristy need your help again. Sensor tstat hosing and FP are all in the same place. What do I do? Go to electric FP then swap out the sensor for the one closest to the T-stat housing?
I'd like to keep it as simple as possible
.Pic sucks but oh well, you'll see the point
I'd like to keep it as simple as possible
.Pic sucks but oh well, you'll see the point
- Thread starter
- #24
BIMP!
Fuel pump assistance needed on isle 5!
Fuel pump assistance needed on isle 5!
damn! we're in a tight spot!
i would unbolt the fuel pump and put a block off plate there. and go with the electric one.
$50 for a new one isnt too bad.
you dont have a lot of easy options, here.
finding a t stat housing that is at an angle may be impossible.
making a riser adapter to off set the housing could be done, bit is complicated. and unless you have the metal and tools to fab it, you will probly be in it the same as the cost of a new pump.
flipping the pump may work, if you can figure out how to flip the arm around so it hits the cam right. but this only would work if the arm comes out very close to center. you know, so it wont have one longer stroke than before.
if that some how worked, you'd still be in trouble with the temp sender, which I would at this point having saved the $50, buy a plug for it, and eliminate it, and locate a hole elsewhere.
I think going the new pump route would be easiest. look on the bright side, if you mount the new pump like a ninja would, and get some tuff conduit for the wires to hide in, you can incorporate a hidden switch for it for theft prevention
i would unbolt the fuel pump and put a block off plate there. and go with the electric one.
$50 for a new one isnt too bad.
you dont have a lot of easy options, here.
finding a t stat housing that is at an angle may be impossible.
making a riser adapter to off set the housing could be done, bit is complicated. and unless you have the metal and tools to fab it, you will probly be in it the same as the cost of a new pump.
flipping the pump may work, if you can figure out how to flip the arm around so it hits the cam right. but this only would work if the arm comes out very close to center. you know, so it wont have one longer stroke than before.
if that some how worked, you'd still be in trouble with the temp sender, which I would at this point having saved the $50, buy a plug for it, and eliminate it, and locate a hole elsewhere.
I think going the new pump route would be easiest. look on the bright side, if you mount the new pump like a ninja would, and get some tuff conduit for the wires to hide in, you can incorporate a hidden switch for it for theft prevention
- Thread starter
- #26
Nailed everyone of'em, thanks wristy
Trouble is I'm not familiar with E-F.P's and isn't one of the lines a bypass that goes back to the tank?
A straight in-line pump will have me doing some things I'm not familiar with. And if theirs no bypass wont it get worse MPG?
Can you recommend a pump? (I'm on a budget, Napa is supposed to have a good one IDK)
Dang, I wanted to keep it caveman!....but oh well.
- Thread starter
- #27
It's a work in progress. 
From this
To this
.
From this
To this
.
- Thread starter
- #29
wristy, did you have to adjust the carb after? I'm running the 22R carb and it was fine on the old motor.
- Thread starter
- #30
here's my t-stat fix
its a spare hose and piping that normally goes around the alt seen in the pic above
its a spare hose and piping that normally goes around the alt seen in the pic above
- Thread starter
- #32
well, I got a cherry(glowing red exhaust). it won't run...right. my spitting and sputtering was the vac advance lines were crossed.
I just bought a tstat, the old one had a huge silicon booger in it. I hope that'll be the case for this one, but I have to let it cool down 1st.
I went through the vac lines w/ my Chilton's...I'm pretty sure they're right. But it just aint running right.
Also 2 days ago checked compression and 150 accross the board.
Gonna recheck lines and replace tstat tomorrow.
EDIT: Fixed. Timing was too advanced.
Last edited: