FJ60 Power Steering Conversion for FJ40 while keeping air pump

[PabloCruise]

Originally Posted by chalmic

TJ,
Nice detailed process.

Gracias Amigo!!!

[PabloCruise]

Well, I didn't get to wheel the 40 in Moab, but Kipper did, and the PS system did just fine! They wheeled Hells Revenge and Poison Spider

I wanted to try to get some sweet shots of the 60 PS being articulated, but since I wasn't there, my buddy O'Neil took the shot below.

After driving over to Moab, I think I need to check my caster and add a steering stabilizer. The steering is a little darty when I brake hard. I am guessing I do not have much caster and will need to add shims. I just hope the front flange won't get pointed down too far!

I'll post up the caster data ASAP.

[projektdotnet]

PM headed your way TJ

[Owyhee Jackass]

Excellent detail on your write-up. I did the same thing on my 45 using Mark W's article in TT and his suggestion on the 55 u-joint. I've been happy with it. My wife prefers to drive the SOA 45 over the bonestock FJ55 JUST because of the steering. I'd add power steering to the 55, but want to keep the air pump too. I have a '73 F so my air pump isn't in the same spot. I do have a dual pulley...I just need to get creative like you did.

Dan

[Trollhole]

Great writeup.

[PabloCruise]

Thanks Y'all!

I finally got some pics of the clearance betwen the steering linkage and the leaf springs while flexing:

[PabloCruise]

I just realized these show the steering pretty well while being flexed:

[PabloCruise]

After dealing with light steering and negative caster for a while I threw in some 4 degree shims...

http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/151088-death-wobble-after-adding-4-degree-shims.html

[PabloCruise]

I just got back from Moab, so I drove the 40 ~900 miles. I think it drives much more nicely with some positive caster in the front end. It felt much more stable.

I feel like the positive caster puts more effort on the PS system - translating into more heat in the PS fluid. My PS pump was barfing when I worked it hard, so I will be adding a cooler soon. I thought it was just barfing out the top cap due to a weak gasket. I did see it spray some fluid past the front seal after some tight turns in the sand on Wipe Out Hill.

While in Moab I met someone who claimed to have found a replacement bushing for the Toyota PS pump. I will try to track that down and rebuild a pump.

[PabloCruise]

Since this write-up I have gotten a few inquiries about the relay rod on this project.

A quick review: I kept the 40 knuckles on the housing, so I needed a way to tie in with the 60 series pitman arm.

What we did is mate the 40 relay rod to the 60 relay rod with some splints on the outside of the two arms. The splints were notched to accommodate the different diameters.

I contacted CDan about a rebuild kit for the pitman arm end of the relay rod and found Toyota has upgraded the end - you have to buy the entire relay rod for a 60 series.

Here are the pictures:

[El Cazador]

Thanks. Just what I needed to figure this out. Now if the parts would just get here.
Vic
Redlands, CA.

[67azcruizr]

It might be a little late for some of you but a LH side 70 series TRE would do the trick without having to shorten the relay rod.

[PabloCruise]

Originally Posted by 67azcruizr

It might be a little late for some of you but a LH side 70 series TRE would do the trick without having to shorten the relay rod.

That is awesome to know!

Do you know if US Toy dealers can order this? Do you have a good p/n?

[PabloCruise]

Well, I have been talking about adding a PS cooler to keep the pump from barfing when it gets hot.

I also wanted to replace the stock 60 series high pressure hose with one that could be routed correctly in the engine compartment.

So I got a spare PS pump to rebuild and sourced a cooler. Then when went to see about getting a new high pressure PS hose made, I found it difficult to source custom made hose with metric fittings. Thanks to some posts by Mace, I found some adapters to adapt from metric to #6 JIC. I got two of those (one for the box, one for the pump) and away we went.

I like the resulting set up much better. The high pressure line is no longer running near the EGR and exhaust manifold. Now the low pressure side runs to the far side of the radiator to a cooler.

We will see how this does next time I am aired down and running tight turns in the sand!

[PabloCruise]

First I rebuilt the pump using the FSM - nothing too tricky.

Just watch things when you tear the pump down. You don't want to loose the springs that ride on the slippers!

[PabloCruise]

I cleaned everything and got a rebuild kit from CruiserDan and put the pump back together...

[PabloCruise]

Reassembling the compressor portion of the pump takes some patience.

You will need to orient yourself to the rotating direction of the pump in order to correctly install the slippers

[PabloCruise]

Here is the fittings used, the configuration of the high pressure hose to keep it as far away from engine heat, and the cooler I used.

On the new hose, I sourced a 90' fitting at the box and a 45' at the pump.

[PabloCruise]

Here you can see the new pressure line routing vs. the old.

Also, take a look at the new PS pump cap that Toyota sells. You can no longer just get a replacement gasket for a leaky 60 series PS pump cap...

[PabloCruise]

Originally Posted by 67azcruizr

It might be a little late for some of you but a LH side 70 series TRE would do the trick without having to shorten the relay rod.

Can anyone comment on the length of a 70 series TRE and relay rod?

[polarweasel]

No, but I'd like to know what the cooler, fittings, lines, rebuild kit, etc. cost you. My 42's pump leaks a decent amount, and I've got a spare in a box that I'm sure needs to be rebuilt. Might as well add a cooler while I'm at it.

[PabloCruise]

PS rebuild kit from CDan runs around $40. I think the new style cap is ~$12? (Honestly can't remember)

The cooler is a ~$40 NAPA piece...

[FJ40zen]

Doesn't someone make a threaded tie rod insert that can be welded into the ends of a cut-to-length thread-less tie rod? Kept tight with a jam nut. I saw them somewhere in the last couple months... I think that would work great for you.

[polarweasel]

Yeah, the new-style cap is cheap and a very good thing. I've already got one of those, and it's helped keep the oil spray to a reasonable level. Guess I need to get ordering a rebuild kit, though. Thanks!

[PabloCruise]

Originally Posted by FJ40zen

Doesn't someone make a threaded tie rod insert that can be welded into the ends of a cut-to-length thread-less tie rod? Kept tight with a jam nut. I saw them somewhere in the last couple months... I think that would work great for you.

Here is one better - custom made tie rod and relay rods for FJ60 ends - and they are local

Front Range Off-Road Fabrication