would 33" tires fit in the LC 200 without a suspension lift?
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This is already covered extensively on this site. Search function is your friend, but in short the answer is probably no. You could expect some degree of scrubbing of the front tires on the inner guard and mudflap. Changing the wheel offset can resolve or worsen this problem. Search for that info too. About 32.5" is the probably the max you can get away with on standard suspension and stock offset.
285/65/18 fits very nice on a stock rig and is a 33" tire. Well...32.7".
No rubs and looks great in a BFG AT KO.
No rubs and looks great in a BFG AT KO.
Thanks for the post. Contrary to Billfish this specific question is not covered here. Posts on tires and lifts etc but post a link if there is something specific to largest tire with NO lift. Pics would be good too.
Thanks for posting WoodyCreature but contary to your assertion a simple search in the 200 section using the obscure words of : "tire without lift" reveals a number of possibilities including, for your benefit, this one:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/200-series-cruisers/413142-largest-best-tire-install-stock-lc-2010-a.html
There are many others.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/200-series-cruisers/413142-largest-best-tire-install-stock-lc-2010-a.html
There are many others.
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Yeah yeah. I've read all the "many" other posts. With the modest exception of TroutRunner there are a lot of conflicting/incomplete reports, variances between tire brands, wheel sizes, etc. Until someone says this is my stock 200 with "X Brand" tire on my 18" wheel and this is how it fits.... the question will continue.
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200 series tyres and lift kits
Hi all,
thought it be worth sharing my research as i haven't been able to find any quick answers online.
I have a 2011 twin turbo diesel 200, I wanted to put big tyres on wish list was
tyres approx 33/305/17
no mods to panels (ie artic flares)
get tyres to sit as close to level with the guards as possible ( give it that wide visual stance) (note i didnt mind if they haungt out a touch, legal or not)
Picked 17" rims as tyre costs are 30% less than 18"
and overall there was more tyres sizes available (which is now starting to not be the case, more later on that, but costs remain true)
Almost all agreed a lift would be required to fit anything decent.
Went out and got a 2" OMEmu lift on the front and 20mm on the rear.
ARB tells me that would level the car, they also supplied a spacer for the front right strut to level the car left to right because of the active suspension.
After the lift when parked next to a standard 200 there wasn't a hell of alot of difference but it did sit flatter front to rear.
I had a set of 22' rims in the shed from my old 100 series that fitted fine except for the wheel nuts, they are bigger on the 200 than the 100, but hardly an issue.
tyres are 305/40/22 with a 31.57" ( 801mm) diameter
the rims themselves had an approx +35mm offset
given what i am trying to achieve have these 22's on gave me the ability to start to measure with something real.
Next step was to understand clearances.
Park the car on a loading ramp to give a rear wheel full suspension articulation. No problem heaps of room everywhere, top of the tyre came the closest at about 40 to the chasis and inside guard.
could easily fit 13.5" tyres without hitting a thing.
front was different. ARB told me 2" was max legal lift so i need to work with that.
with the wheels straight there is 1 1/2 to 2" between the back of the front tyre and the plastic mudguard.
1" clearance to the top control arm and 40mm clearance near the upper ball joint
from memory 70mm to the front sway bar.
All good so far, however as these particular rims having a larger offset than standard, the issues start when you turn.
Two places are the spots to watch as all other clearances are static. That is to the front sway bar and the guard at the rear.
full lock at the fron comes to 40mm the sway bar
but to the plastic guard it is 15mm to 20mm. if the from suspension is compressed the gap increases, at normal ride height is the drama.
Looking at the plastic guard you can easily cutout the inside of the plastic with out drama, it will allow dirt to be blown up between the body and chasis, but that's what a hose is for. Probably something any handy bloke could also close up with a little of ingenuity.
So as it stands, 809mm plus 30mm (15mm clearance on the radius radius making it 30mm overall) tells me i can get a 840mm (33") tyre on as it stands with probably a little scraping on plastic that doesnt need to be there.
I Ordered some Fuel "Octanes" rims from the states custom drilled with a 25mm offset.
Now down sides only 305 or 315 or 12.5" tyres in 17" is Mickey / Cooper / Dick Cerpac, with diameters around 33"
I have owned ST Coppers for years and got lots of miles and tracks under my belt with absolutely no drama. love them. But Coopers the bastards have stop making them. Had Mickey M/TZ but they didnt excite me, good offroad but high maintenance for the road, tyre rotations balancing, lugs wearing unevenly.
All the higher rated / reviewed tyres on 17" rims (dont forget way cheaper than 18's) are closer to 34 to 35".
Now i am in trouble LOL
again.
i need an extra 20mm clearance ?
so this is where my story ends for now, as my next move is to play a little outside the lines.
$500 for new top controls arms, this will allow proper wheel alignment, currently my alginment toes in 1deg at full adjustment.
then the next move will be to put a 1" spacer above the front coil and strut then re-measure.
So yes in Australia 3" aint totally legal rear might need to come up a touch to but i doubt it.
Anyways if your interested i will, let you know how i went in a couple of months
Hi all,
thought it be worth sharing my research as i haven't been able to find any quick answers online.
I have a 2011 twin turbo diesel 200, I wanted to put big tyres on wish list was
tyres approx 33/305/17
no mods to panels (ie artic flares)
get tyres to sit as close to level with the guards as possible ( give it that wide visual stance) (note i didnt mind if they haungt out a touch, legal or not)
Picked 17" rims as tyre costs are 30% less than 18"
and overall there was more tyres sizes available (which is now starting to not be the case, more later on that, but costs remain true)
Almost all agreed a lift would be required to fit anything decent.
Went out and got a 2" OMEmu lift on the front and 20mm on the rear.
ARB tells me that would level the car, they also supplied a spacer for the front right strut to level the car left to right because of the active suspension.
After the lift when parked next to a standard 200 there wasn't a hell of alot of difference but it did sit flatter front to rear.
I had a set of 22' rims in the shed from my old 100 series that fitted fine except for the wheel nuts, they are bigger on the 200 than the 100, but hardly an issue.
tyres are 305/40/22 with a 31.57" ( 801mm) diameter
the rims themselves had an approx +35mm offset
given what i am trying to achieve have these 22's on gave me the ability to start to measure with something real.
Next step was to understand clearances.
Park the car on a loading ramp to give a rear wheel full suspension articulation. No problem heaps of room everywhere, top of the tyre came the closest at about 40 to the chasis and inside guard.
could easily fit 13.5" tyres without hitting a thing.
front was different. ARB told me 2" was max legal lift so i need to work with that.
with the wheels straight there is 1 1/2 to 2" between the back of the front tyre and the plastic mudguard.
1" clearance to the top control arm and 40mm clearance near the upper ball joint
from memory 70mm to the front sway bar.
All good so far, however as these particular rims having a larger offset than standard, the issues start when you turn.
Two places are the spots to watch as all other clearances are static. That is to the front sway bar and the guard at the rear.
full lock at the fron comes to 40mm the sway bar
but to the plastic guard it is 15mm to 20mm. if the from suspension is compressed the gap increases, at normal ride height is the drama.
Looking at the plastic guard you can easily cutout the inside of the plastic with out drama, it will allow dirt to be blown up between the body and chasis, but that's what a hose is for. Probably something any handy bloke could also close up with a little of ingenuity.
So as it stands, 809mm plus 30mm (15mm clearance on the radius radius making it 30mm overall) tells me i can get a 840mm (33") tyre on as it stands with probably a little scraping on plastic that doesnt need to be there.
I Ordered some Fuel "Octanes" rims from the states custom drilled with a 25mm offset.
Now down sides only 305 or 315 or 12.5" tyres in 17" is Mickey / Cooper / Dick Cerpac, with diameters around 33"
I have owned ST Coppers for years and got lots of miles and tracks under my belt with absolutely no drama. love them. But Coopers the bastards have stop making them. Had Mickey M/TZ but they didnt excite me, good offroad but high maintenance for the road, tyre rotations balancing, lugs wearing unevenly.
All the higher rated / reviewed tyres on 17" rims (dont forget way cheaper than 18's) are closer to 34 to 35".
Now i am in trouble LOL
again.i need an extra 20mm clearance ?
so this is where my story ends for now, as my next move is to play a little outside the lines.
$500 for new top controls arms, this will allow proper wheel alignment, currently my alginment toes in 1deg at full adjustment.
then the next move will be to put a 1" spacer above the front coil and strut then re-measure.
So yes in Australia 3" aint totally legal rear might need to come up a touch to but i doubt it.
Anyways if your interested i will, let you know how i went in a couple of months
Thanks for the detailed input. Where is your spare?
My Nitto TG 275/70-18 are 33" and fit without a lift or rubbing. I've done a lot of wheeling with them too.
Can confirm what Soslo said, put some Cooper ATW 275/70 R18's under my stock cruiser today. Tire shop said they wouldn't fit, I said do it anyways. They fit with no rubbing though I haven't wheeled it yet.
200 SERIES TECHNICAL FAQ (FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS) AND MODIFICATIONS
At the top of this forum... Scroll down a little and there is a tire and wheel data base tells you all you need to know.
That being said to make your life easier I Have a stock 2013 land cruiser I have had 285/65r18 no rubbing convinced discount to switch out to 275/70r18 both bfg ko2 10,000 miles no rubbing what so ever have done light to moderate off road
At the top of this forum... Scroll down a little and there is a tire and wheel data base tells you all you need to know.
That being said to make your life easier I Have a stock 2013 land cruiser I have had 285/65r18 no rubbing convinced discount to switch out to 275/70r18 both bfg ko2 10,000 miles no rubbing what so ever have done light to moderate off road
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I have a stock 200 with BFG KO2s 275/70/18. No rubbing at full articulation and it has been stuffed competely at lock. On stock wheels these will not rub. Tires are 33.2 inches tall mounted on the truck
Yes, 275/70/18 will fit with no problem with stock suspension. You may have to remove the front mud flaps, but you will have no issues.
Can confirm, running 275/70R18 Cooper ATW's (33.2") with zero rubbing.
would 33" tires fit in the LC 200 without a suspension lift?
is not really the right question and is a misnomer that is commonly misunderstood in how a lift effect IFS suspensions.
IFS suspensions travel through the same arc, independent of lift. That is the wheel/tire will move through its suspension travel exactly the same relative to the chassis/vehicle as it cycles. A lift simply changes its neutral point at rest.
To hammer on this more, a lifted truck at full compression will have the tire at exactly the same position as a non-lifted truck. At full droop, again the tire will be at exactly the same position as a non-lifted truck. Lift only changes where it sits at rest.
This is true for our front axle as it's IFS, and where most of the clearance issues are.
Solid axle lifts can work differently. And is why most people believe that lift might affect IFS similarly. In a solid axle lift, the stroke of the suspension can actually change. It will droop to a lower point, and compress to a further point from the body.
I will acknowledge that a lifted truck may rub less (for taller tires) as nominal use may not compress the suspension as greatly. Though funny thing with the LC, is that a lift will actually cause a wide tire to rub MORE. That is because the A-arms actually swing the tire closer to the frame as it travels downwards. For those with AHC (that can lift and lower on demand), this is a well noted behavior, especially in the 100-series community that has explored this topic more.
Only ways that add more clearance for larger tires is:
1) body lift
2) fender/liner mods
3) A-arms (upper and/or lower) (e.g. turdra)
4) wheel spacer or wheels with different backspacing
5) Frame mounting point changes
is not really the right question and is a misnomer that is commonly misunderstood in how a lift effect IFS suspensions.
IFS suspensions travel through the same arc, independent of lift. That is the wheel/tire will move through its suspension travel exactly the same relative to the chassis/vehicle as it cycles. A lift simply changes its neutral point at rest.
To hammer on this more, a lifted truck at full compression will have the tire at exactly the same position as a non-lifted truck. At full droop, again the tire will be at exactly the same position as a non-lifted truck. Lift only changes where it sits at rest.
This is true for our front axle as it's IFS, and where most of the clearance issues are.
Solid axle lifts can work differently. And is why most people believe that lift might affect IFS similarly. In a solid axle lift, the stroke of the suspension can actually change. It will droop to a lower point, and compress to a further point from the body.
I will acknowledge that a lifted truck may rub less (for taller tires) as nominal use may not compress the suspension as greatly. Though funny thing with the LC, is that a lift will actually cause a wide tire to rub MORE. That is because the A-arms actually swing the tire closer to the frame as it travels downwards. For those with AHC (that can lift and lower on demand), this is a well noted behavior, especially in the 100-series community that has explored this topic more.
Only ways that add more clearance for larger tires is:
1) body lift
2) fender/liner mods
3) A-arms (upper and/or lower) (e.g. turdra)
4) wheel spacer or wheels with different backspacing
5) Frame mounting point changes