Won't crank (1 Viewer)

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Apr 20, 2012
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Truck is a 80 with original engine (rebuilt in 15) and harness. battery has 12V across the terminals. New fusable link from coolerman. When I turn the key forward the fuel pump turns on and the seatbelt warning beeper turn on. When I go to start the starter will click and I loose the fuel pump and the beeping. Took the starter to be tested and autozone said it tested good but the gear didn't turn as fast as expected, so I just got done installing the new duralast starter (retained the original). No change . The new starter has an additional ground wire is this optional? Ground terminal at the battery seems to be little loose but all resistance checks have been 0.3 ohms. About to take the battery for load test. It was installed in 2013.

Any other suggestions?
 
sounds like a short to me. Check the cables to the starter to see if there is a nick in the housing somewhere causing it to short out when you crank the starter? Also maybe check all the main battery cables too. I had a main cable rubbing between the battery & the tray that eventually got just enough of a cut to short out against the tray, but you couldn't really see anything until pulled & inspected.
 
There should be a ground from starter to frame.
 
Didn't say I'd you tried to jump it or had the battery checked. Battery can have a poor internal connection between cells and show volt and handle light loads but not heavy load like the starter.
 
Ground terminal at the battery seems to be little loose but all resistance checks have been 0.3 ohms.

Check, repair, replace, clean up the post and the clamp.
An ohm test tells you nothing with those big cables. If 99% is damaged it still shows low ohms because you test with a tiny battery in your tester.
Quick test: Use your jumper cable and hook up the black ones to the battery and the engine.

Rudi
 
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Quick easy test is to use some jumper cables for extra grounds. Neg to frame and neg to engine. Loose ground clamp can cause wonky issues
 
Battery tested good although little low on the charge 12.04 autozone said he'd like to see it above 12.5 which I didn't think would make much of a difference.

Removed both terminal cables and didn't see any knicks.
 
You would be surprised to find out what less than 1 volt difference can make. I never realized this, until I got a diesel pickup. The high compression, higher draw starters needed, really need full voltage to work properly. This is when less than 1 volt difference, 12 to 12.5, really shows the need for a well charged battery. A well charged battery is actually closer to 13 volts.

Don
 
Charged the battery for 8 hours and reading 13.5v now. Through it in, no cuts found in the cables and got all the connections cleaned and tight. Turned over perfectly first time. I'm still not a 100 convinced so I'll just have to keep a lookout for more gremlins.

Thank you everyone for the help! Now its time to start searching the vacuum line and desmog threads.
 

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