wipers quit today

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Mar 1, 2005
The fuse isn't blown, and every other electrical component still works fine, Switch? Motor? What to do/check first? Its an '80 40 series with a 2F.
I would start by telling them to get back to work. ;)

I then would ohm out the switch, or remove the cover over the motor, and check for power at the motor.

Good luck!

well this is from a 1970 not sure the help it does for you but went through this last week.

Undo the plug at the motor verify power to only one lead.

With it unplugged test the leads on the switch to make sure they are functioning, also test the grounds at this time.

Pull off the switch cover with plug in and verify power to the switch that is located on the back of the motor (passenger side)

If all is good pull the two motor bolts and ensure the points and springs are good enough to conduct. Might as well sand them down lightly at this point.

If that doesn't work clean them fully, i just did this after my rebuild although i had one bad connection at the switch, a bent switch making it short out, Way too thick grease, no ground at the switch and a bad spring behind the point. There is a lot to look at try the easy ones first. Look at the fuse too.
I had the same problem recently on my 67. Visually checked the fuse and it looked perfect. Checked continuity on a multimeter - blown.

Also had some corrosion at the plug which shorted between two leads, hence blown fuse. Contact cleaner and new fuse and everything works. My wiper motor is overhead though, don't know if your plug is exposed to the elements like mine is.
haven't had the landcruiser ones die, but on other vehicles I have, and have started at the motor, run a jumper wire to ground, another with battery power, if the motor runs, start tracing it back , wires, switch/relays, fusebox, etc. but I would start with the ground, just because it would seem like it might be a sketchy point on a vehicle with a folding windshield
As others have mentioned:

1. Pull the fuse and make sure it is good. The answer to a bad fuse is obvious.

2. Pull the motor cover and disconnect the plug. There should be power to only one terminal on the vehicle-side plug (ignition switch in accessories position and fuse reinstalled, of course). This power does not pass through the wiper switch, so if you don't have power to one terminal, you need to find out why. I don't know about an '80, but there is another wiper plug under the dash near the glove box in mid-70s models.

3. Check the other terminals to ground at various wiper switch positions (the wiper switch does not apply power to the motor, but rather completes the motor circuit to ground). Note: Ignition switch can be off for this, so you don't inadvertantly blow the fuse trying to make these checks. One of the terminals should be grounded with the switch in the high speed position, one should be grounded with the switch in the low speed position, and the last will probably be open to ground but have continuity to whichever is the low speed terminal with the switch in the off position. If these checks fail, you need to check the wiper switch or the other wiper plug under the dash. I believe that new wiper switches are still available. The wiper switches can be taken apart and repaired, but personally I'd just replace it if it is faulty.

4. If the above checks are good, your motor is probably at fault. You can take it apart pretty easily to check the brushes (with a lot of use, they wear down and become too short to function). Did the wipers act slow and fail to run intermittently prior to finally quitting for good (signs of brushes getting short)? You can also still, I think, buy this model of wiper motor new. It'll be pricey, though. They can be found used, also, but the condition will be questionable. I have the part number for brushes that can be modified to repair these motors if you need to go that way. Just pm me.

Todd Bull.
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spotcruiser said:
As others have mentioned:

1. Pull the fuse and make sure it is good. The answer to a bad fuse is obvious.

Not as obvious as one might think...there are many instances not only out here that folks have looked at the fuse and appeared to be fine, only to have it not work....

Replace the fuse.....it is .25us ;)

corrosion on the fuse holder might contribute to this problem as well .
Poser said:
Not as obvious as one might think...there are many instances not only out here that folks have looked at the fuse and appeared to be fine, only to have it not work

I agree. I should have said make sure it is good using an ohmmeter. :)

I don't throw them away if they are sound, though. I have, as you point out, found them to appear good only to find out that the element was broken within the end cap and functioning intermittently.
This one had me baffled on my 76 for some time last year. Finally I checked the terminal to the washer bottle motor. CORROSION, I snipped the wires since I don't have this setup and bingo, the wipers started working. Hope this helps.
I never even thought about it and of couse was the last thing I checked.
On my 80-FJ40 the nut that holds the driving levers onto the motor loosened up. U might check that as well.

I fought with this about a month ago - checked everything twice. It was the fuse - just as everyone here is saying. It looked fine, even tested fine with my test light, but try this... put your test light on the cold side (forward side) of the fuse, hold it there and then pull the wiper switch out. Does your test light go out? Bad fuse (blown in end cap) and slightly dirty contacts were my problem (visually looked FINE)

Hours of screwing around to come back to the simple solution. Same problem with my tail/dash lights.


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