Will New Tundra Rims Fit My FZJ80? (1 Viewer)

[LandCruiserPhil]

is that a 1/4" steel lip or aluminum lip? But if it works for you, it works I would still be weary of such a small lip, I would not find 1/4" enough to cover the width of the hub mating surface on the wheel...of course, the weld wheel may have a narrower kerf, whereas the tundra rim is definitly over 1/4"...i'm not in town right now or I would measure. Does your rim got past the lip?

later,
k

The lip is aluminum and I don’t think it’s for adding strength. I believe the purpose is to center the wheel to the spacer. If I had just put the spacers on I might be a little concerned but they have been on for 40K and they never have loosen and the wheels have never fell off so far.

 

[inacoma]

This is entirely academic but here goes.

The Tundra/Sequoia rims are not hub-centric, no? There is certainly no hub visible on the Sequoias or Tundras I've checked out. Also, if the aluminum spacer is bolted to the Tundra/Sequoia wheel with the 6 lugs, I'd bet the two are functioning as a single piece so that when the aluminum spacer is slipped onto the hub it is actually making much more surface area contact with the hub in which to distribute forces - in this case either a full 1" or 1.25" of snugly fitted aluminum billet. Kumar, you might be getting the wheel to still sit on the hub but functionally I really doubt there is a difference as long as the spacer is well attached to the wheel.

Also, Gary - you don't even own that 80 anymore so buzz off And Kumar was definitely the first one I ever saw run these. I got them about 1.5 years ago before they really got noticed for $200 from a bling-envy Orange Co fool. They are really hard to find for under $300 a set now.
Also for Gary - you didn't mount the center covers and those are not AISIN hubs, so there poop

While the Tundra/Sequoi is not hub centric (i'll take your word, as I have not researched nor seen one up close)...the weight of our trucks was designed around the hub supporting the weight, where the posts just keep everything alligned and buttoned up. If you notice, the nuts themselves allow the wheel to be self alligned when puttin the wheel on, so I beleive the hub is not there to necessarily center the wheel. I wonder if the stud design on the tundra/seqoia is more robust than that of a landcruiser???? worth checking out....thus their studs are stronger and can hold the weight of the vehicle. Again, I run large krawlers (and soon to run 37" trxus), and I want any forces directed to the hub, not the lugs. lugs can shear (maybe easier with the aluminum??)...hub...well, it can't reallyshear off without really trying to Fawk it up. Also i'm sure the lug way is fine for 98% of the driving...but I build my rig for that 2% )

laterz,

Kumar

 

[clownmidget]

Well Kumar I like to think mine just doesn't sit in the driveway

I don't know for sure about the Tundra/Sequoia setup either, just from what I've checked out from my neighbors Tundra, but I've never had his wheels off. I'm no engineer either, that's why I was aksing out loud if it made sense that securing that spacer to the wheel functionally makes them behave as one unit, like a two-piece wheel. Then what you've got riding on the hub of the truck is spread out across the whole spacer. I don't think it's ever like the weight of the truck is being solely supported by the wheel studs on the spacers. That's all I was trying to say.

And for what it's worth, I ran the Michelin XZL's that weighed 90 lbs (just the tire!) with these spacers on the stock rims for a wider stance and wheeled it a little with no problems/issues. But then, who has had a wheel break off on their truck?

 

[inacoma]

Well Kumar I like to think mine just doesn't sit in the driveway

I don't know for sure about the Tundra/Sequoia setup either, just from what I've checked out from my neighbors Tundra, but I've never had his wheels off. I'm no engineer either, that's why I was aksing out loud if it made sense that securing that spacer to the wheel functionally makes them behave as one unit, like a two-piece wheel. Then what you've got riding on the hub of the truck is spread out across the whole spacer. I don't think it's ever like the weight of the truck is being solely supported by the wheel studs on the spacers. That's all I was trying to say.

And for what it's worth, I ran the Michelin XZL's that weighed 90 lbs (just the tire!) with these spacers on the stock rims for a wider stance and wheeled it a little with no problems/issues. But then, who has had a wheel break off on their truck?

Don't lie you don't wheel, it's sits at the MALL!!!

I'm sure they worked, but how long would it work..maybe forever, maybe not, maybe a freak breakage over time??? I guess I'm not sure, and without the correct testing equipment we really won't know ???? I just know that I'm not willing to go beyond the toyota design at the wheel ends....I'm being a PITA anal person here, especially when the rig at full outfitting weight is close to 7k pounds...offroad... The krawlers I run are 85# each (according to UPS shipping label).

We'll just have to agree to disagree (that's a farily lame cop out on my part )

kumar

 

[Waggoner5]

Ya'll are killing me.....I have to get back to....... something, but I can't remember. Cheers Kumar.

 

[Tools R Us]

I had the wheels off the front of mine tonight doing brakes, so I did some measuring. IMHO the wheels are held on the truck purely by the clamping force of the nuts holding the wheel against the flat portion of the hub, the "hub centric" is only to center the wheel for installation. For the "hub centric" to add any usable rigidity the wheel would have to press onto the hub and this is not the case, the only wheel type I am aware of that works this way is single nut knock off type.

I noted all the measurements and left them at the shop, so this is from memory.

The arrow in the picture is a step in hub diameter, the outside diameter on that step is about .010" smaller than inside diameter of the hole in the wheel, so Toyota must be OK with .010" runout in the wheel. That said with .010" play, that step has no bearing on the strength of the wheel to hub joint, if the wheel is moving/flexing/wallowing .010" it's going to be off the truck, soon!

The step extends about .325" from the hub face and the chamfer on the back of the wheel is about .125" deep, so with any wheel spacer thicker than 1/8" or so you are relying in the outer part of the hub that is about .030" smaller, making the wheel play about .040", to center the wheel. If the wheel is just hung on the hub and the lugs are tightened that .040" runout with a big tire is in the range that can cause a road force type vibration.

 

[hoser]

I noticed the same observations as Kevin on my 80 and 100. I was surprised since all the wheels on my other cars fit snugly on the hub--but they also have tapered lug nuts as opposed to the LC's shank style.