What’s up with my power port? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Mar 20, 2006
Threads
24
Messages
804
Location
El Dorado Hills, CA
So I bought a goal zero yeti 1000 lithium along with the goal zero 12v charger, and both work fantastic but I noticed some strange behavior with my power ports.

Power Port 1 - top center console, when the goal zero charger is set to 10A, my goal zero yeti charges at ~118 watts. When it is set at 5A, my goal zero charges ~56 watts. All good, what I was hoping for.

Power port 2 (lower center console) and Power Port 3 ( base of second row climate controls marked “12v 120watts”). In 5A mode I get a charge of 56 watts. In 10A mode I get a charge of only ~16watts.

So what is going on?

Any ideas to get 10a charging to work on my rear power port?

Thank you!
 
That's strange. They're on the same fuse.
 
Definitely odd?

Can you help me clarify that when you say power port, you're talking about the cigarette lighter at different positions of the car? Just making sure you're not talking about USB ports in some later model year or something.

Cigarette lighter ports don't have any logic built into them. Therefore, basic electrical checks apply:
  1. Are the contacts clean? Wouldn't be the first time that a port get stuff on the contacts causing resistance, such that's there's voltage drop with power draw.
  2. If the contacts are nice and clean, the wire gauges for the ports on the OEM vehicles are tiny and not made for any serious draw. It's wholly possible that the wire run to the rear port is longer such that there's enough voltage drop that the yeti is detecting in the 10amp mode, and it then reverts to some compatibility/safe mode?
 
^If it is voltage sag.

Try the test with the car on. Does it change your results?

If you have a voltmeter.
  • With the car off, what's the voltage at the battery?
  • Voltage at the cigeratte lighters?
 
Definitely odd?

Can you help me clarify that when you say power port, you're talking about the cigarette lighter at different positions of the car? Just making sure you're not talking about USB ports in some later model year or something.

Cigarette lighter ports don't have any logic built into them. Therefore, basic electrical checks apply:
  1. Are the contacts clean? Wouldn't be the first time that a port get stuff on the contacts causing resistance, such that's there's voltage drop with power draw.
  2. If the contacts are nice and clean, the wire gauges for the ports on the OEM vehicles are tiny and not made for any serious draw. It's wholly possible that the wire run to the rear port is longer such that there's enough voltage drop that the yeti is detecting in the 10amp mode, and it then reverts to some compatibility/safe mode?

Thank you @TeCKis300 ! Yes, I’m talking about the cigarette round power ports.

Good info here that they are on the same fuse and that they don’t have any logic built into them.

The contacts seem to be clean, they all look like they’ve never been used.

I was thinking that the two underperforming ports were being overdrawn, but I don’t understand why. The rear port on the floor of the second row says “12V/120W”. All tests were done when the LC was running.

Thanks!
 
Long running known issue is the rear of 100s and I see also 200s. The wire gauge running on the factory harness is really only enough for the rated values. Search the forum for issues about ARB fridges on the rear factory power port and you’ll see plenty of evidence on the point of voltage sag when the current draw spikes enough so that many fridges go into shutdown, thinking they need to protect the battery voltage.

I suspect the goal zero logic might be doing a high initial draw to see the capability of the circuit and not seeing it, backs off.
 
Long running known issue is the rear of 100s and I see also 200s. The wire gauge running on the factory harness is really only enough for the rated values. Search the forum for issues about ARB fridges on the rear factory power port and you’ll see plenty of evidence on the point of voltage sag when the current draw spikes enough so that many fridges go into shutdown, thinking they need to protect the battery voltage.

I suspect the goal zero logic might be doing a high initial draw to see the capability of the circuit and not seeing it, backs off.

Thanks @cboyd! I think you’re right.

I’m disappointed at this result it seems it should be within the limits. Isn’t 10amps at 12v 120watts? Which is the stated limit?

So perhaps the goal zero slightly over draws this amount? Or, the plug is slightly overrated?
 
Having been behind the dash where the ports are (next to the ashtray) I can confirm the factory wires are pathetically thin. They sure don't look like they are rated for 15A to me, which is the size of the fuse.

This is one of the reasons why I am in the process of running a #4 wire from the 2nd battery to the back of the truck, where it will get to a Blue Seas fuse block and lots of aux circuits.
 
Great info @cboyd . Didn't know this was a common issue?

While the wire will ultimately support the load, this is probably Goal Zero being conservative so as not to overheat/melt anyone's stock harness.

As this is also happening with the engine on, when voltage levels are much higher than typical battery only output... GoalZero is probably measuring the degree of voltage drop when the load is applied. Too much drop indicating too much resistance or too low gauge of wire (over too long of a run).

It would be easy to wire yourself a better cigarette lighter port to the rear. A single fused positive wire run, of slightly larger gauge. Then ground right where you install the port. Lots of great port kits on amazon, with USB, switch, whatever else you'd like.

Wonder if the Goal Zero has a higher power charge port or is 10amps the max?
 
One workaround to avoid voltage drop from those tiny wires—
—It’s pretty straight forward to run your own heavier wire from the battery positive with an in-line fuse...through the firewall and then either to the back of your existing 12V outlet...or just add one back there. Only need one wire from positive on battery...then attach the negative to a ground screw with a shorter wire (they are all over the place in the truck). This would also let you have full-time power if you prefer.
 
@TeCKis300 , yes this has been a common complaint on the 100s where folks want run fridges. As other have mentioned, the factory wire gauge is pathetically small, and given that the whole thing common fused, means running high amperage loads in the back where we need them is frustrating.

I’ve even noticed a 14v output on the alternator turns into about 10v once it makes it through the trailer harness to my horse trailer then to the back aux lights. So losses of the runs must be considered. .

While it’s wasteful from a conversion loss perspective, maybe the ac plug (inverter output) in the back might be stable enough to fool the goal zero?

The right answer is as other s have said - run a larger guage wire fused at the battery and again in the back to drive the charger. After all, you’re playing with lithium chargers which shouldn’t be left to chance.
 
One workaround to avoid voltage drop from those tiny wires—
—It’s pretty straight forward to run your own heavier wire from the battery positive with an in-line fuse...through the firewall and then either to the back of your existing 12V outlet...or just add one back there. Only need one wire from positive on battery...then attach the negative to a ground screw with a shorter wire (they are all over the place in the truck). This would also let you have full-time power if you prefer.

There are better plug options for running off-road than cig plugs. Go for Anderson or merit type plugs which won’t dislodge in bumpy off-road terrain.
 
There are better plug options for running off-road than cig plugs. Go for Anderson or merit type plugs which won’t dislodge in bumpy off-road terrain.

Good point, @cboyd .
I run my fridge on an Anderson.
Not familiar with the goal zero plugs, but if they have alternative power inputs...skipping the age 12v CL would be great. Not sure it will matter for his particular voltage drop case of getting it into better mode.m, agree it’s always good to go around the poor button connection on the nose of cigarette adapter.
 
Thanks for the thoughts and ideas fellas. I’ve bought some heavier gauge wire and plan to go that route and install a new port in the rear cargo area. The goal zero does have an Anderson input plug, but there new 12v charger designed for the lithium yetis is cigarette—> 6mm Goal Zero, so I could hack it and add Anderson plugs.

What would be a clean way to get run a new fused line and port that is only powered when the key is on?

Thanks!
 
Run your new larger gauge wire from the battery to the back of the truck and then use a relay. Fuse the long run at the battery and again in the back at the source. Tie the relay trigger from the existing power point source to switch the larger gauge feeder. This can all be done behind the panel and make it clean. Grab a blue sea twist lock cigarette socket and a male to match and re wire the current cig goal zero plug. Or merit plugs. I prefer the blue sea twist locks because the be used as a regular cig plug. Some even replace the factory cig outlet with th blue sea for a factory look.

Other option is to use an Anderson plug and surface mount it or leave as a pigtail. Check out powerwerx fo Anderson plug options or WitsEnd for some turnkey Anderson kits.
 
You've got me curious with this Goal Zero Yeti 1000. It really is an awesome drop in all-in-one in battery solution. Portable that I could use it solo with car camping, to expand my RV power options, or tent camping. It's just too flexible!

If you're interesting in taking this farther, as you have to install a charging solution anyways. Looks like there's ways to supercharge the charging ability. Basically creating a DIY high power 12V car charger with an Anderson connector, and a high power 12V step up inverter. This will allow maximizing charge input while the car is on.



There's solar charging options too which I won't go into ATM.
 
Last edited:
So I bought a goal zero yeti 1000 lithium along with the goal zero 12v charger, and both work fantastic but I noticed some strange behavior with my power ports.

Power Port 1 - top center console, when the goal zero charger is set to 10A, my goal zero yeti charges at ~118 watts. When it is set at 5A, my goal zero charges ~56 watts. All good, what I was hoping for.

Power port 2 (lower center console) and Power Port 3 ( base of second row climate controls marked “12v 120watts”). In 5A mode I get a charge of 56 watts. In 10A mode I get a charge of only ~16watts.

So what is going on?

Any ideas to get 10a charging to work on my rear power port?

Thank you!

I charge mine using the 6mm ac adapter plugged into the inverter in the hatch. Reliably puts > 100w back in. Not sure if it matters but I have the non-lithium 400.
 
You've got me curious with this Goal Zero Yeti 1000. It really is an awesome drop all-in-one in battery solution. Portable that I could use it solo with car camping, to expand my RV power options, or tent camping. It's just too flexible!

If you're interesting in taking this farther, as you have to install a charging solution anyways. Looks like there's ways to supercharge the charging ability. Basically creating a DIY high power 12V car charger with an Anderson connector, and a high power 12V step up inverter. This will allow maximizing charge input while the car is on.



There's solar charging options too which I won't go into ATM.


That is pretty interesting!

I think I’ll be happy if I can get 100w of charge, that would plenty quick for me.

I’m happy with the GZ, it’s so cool.
 
I charge mine using the 6mm ac adapter plugged into the inverter in the hatch. Reliably puts > 100w back in. Not sure if it matters but I have the non-lithium 400.

Good to know, I think the lithium is a bit finickier. With my wall plug, it only puts in 60watts using the 6mm input and wall plug. Thanks for the intel.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom