What Paint and Primer? (SS) (1 Viewer)

Joined
Feb 4, 2020
Messages
133
Location
Stanwood, WA
While I’m not quite ready for paint yet, I hope to be in the next couple months. I’d like to be ready and have my paint choice sorted. My tub is already blasted and I need to fill holes and a small amount of rust repair then plan to get it in epoxy primer while I work the rest of the body parts and get in epoxy primer.
Basically wondering what brands others on here have recently used and are pleased (or not) with the results. I’d like to use the same company for primer and topcoat for compatibility reasons. And going with a single stage as I want more of the factory look. Color is easy: Spring Green just as the day it was born.
Been looking at PPG, Tamco, Martin Senour Crossfire but not set on any in particular yet.

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Krondor

SILVER Star
Joined
Mar 26, 2017
Messages
786
Location
Greenville, SC
I went with Nason's fulthane single stage paint mainly due to that being one of the only paints sold by my local automotive paint supplier (Finish master) Went on easily and the finish is awesome! highly recommend.

A lot of people on this forum swear by PPG. Good stuff too, probably would have gone with this if I had it available to me.

In reality, all the mid to high grad single stage paints will be similar to each other. It really depends on what your automotive paint supplier recommends and has available.
 
Joined
Nov 11, 2019
Messages
27
Location
Texas, Is there anyplace else??
While I’m not quite ready for paint yet, I hope to be in the next couple months. I’d like to be ready and have my paint choice sorted. My tub is already blasted and I need to fill holes and a small amount of rust repair then plan to get it in epoxy primer while I work the rest of the body parts and get in epoxy primer.
Basically wondering what brands others on here have recently used and are pleased (or not) with the results. I’d like to use the same company for primer and topcoat for compatibility reasons. And going with a single stage as I want more of the factory look. Color is easy: Spring Green just as the day it was born.
Been looking at PPG, Tamco, Martin Senour Crossfire but not set on any in particular yet.

I favor PPG's line-up of "real" paint. (not the water based stuff). Check-out PPG's "DP-40 Epoxy Primer" as a protective coat over the raw metal. I use it, followed by PPG's "KONDAR" Sanding Primer
then, once "slicked-out", top-coat (color) with PPG's "DCC Concept"..
The "Method To My Madness" is simple.. First off, I use to restore Tri-Five Chebbies for a living, currently, I am restoring my '53 Jaguar XK120 DHC, one of 1472 built!! I am also in the process of gathering parts to refurbish my "bought new" in Dec '73 1974 FJ-40. I'm a retired (Factory Trained) mechanic by trade. Plus, I did a LOT of reading AND talked to a number of "Service Reps" for just about every brand of paint "out-there".. I'll leave-out the "100 Point Show Car Paint" as most folks probably do NOT want to spend upwards of $20K on a Top-Coat paint job that IS going to get scratched and scuffed in the boonies, in the mud or on the rocks!!
Now the up-side.. The DP line-up of Epoxy Primer comes in several different colors. The Kondar is a "sand tan" color and, of course, your "body color" is likely to NOT "match" either of the two.. When "slicking-out" the DP Epoxy coat, one wants to TRY to avoid cutting thru to the base-metal.. If you DO cut-thru to base metal while sanding the "DP" Epoxy Primer, it's no catastrophic deal.. Assuming the Epoxy Primer is "cured" is a simple matter to scuff sand and re-shoot a couple of coats to "re-build" the base-coat! After the DP is slicked-out, AND you are happy with the "DP" coat, THEN you can apply the Kondar. After it's cured, you "slick-it out".. IF you happen to "cut-thru" to the DP Epoxy, you WILL know it immediately because of the color difference!! STOP SANDING IMMEDIATELY!! Clean the primed area of ALL sanding dust then reapply the Kondar. Once the Kondar is cured and slicked-out, you can apply your Top Coat (color coat).. Ideally, you want to "lay down" your color coat "in one pass"... BUT stuff happens! Again, you can sand the "mistake" just do NOT cut thru the Kondar coat.. IF you do cut back down to the DP Epoxy, you are semi-sorta okay.. Sand a area of the color coat "large enough" to expose about a square foot.. Mask-Off ALL the Color Coat around the edges, respray the DP Epoxy and allow to cure. Once the DP is cured and slicked-out to "slightly below the level" of the surrounding area, respray the Kondar coat. Then,once the Kondar is cured and slicked-out, now "just slightly below the level" of the surrounding area, respray the DCC Color coat. By using this "system" of PPG Paints, you can keep "repairing" your painting mistakes as long as you keep making them. Of course, you are NOT painting a 100 Point Show Car, so a little orange peel, a couple of runs and some dust will probably be more of a "Badge of Courage" than a detriment! ;-}
Now, all that said, PPG's "DCC Concept" can be used as a Base Coat/Clear Coat (BC/CC).. BUT once that Clear Coat is sprayed, AND mistake, regardless of how minor, WILL REQUIRE that the ENTIRE vehicle be sanded ALL the way down to the Kondar Sanding Primer!!!
The really GREAT News (old news, but good news) is, this paint set-up is fairly "bullet-proof" and will hold-up "for a while"!! Will it survive a brush against a tree or a rock?? NO! But it will SURE look good when you are stuck in Mickey's Hot Tub ;-}
I hope my experiences are informational to you.
Charles. '74 FJ-40.
 

macdaddy59

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 29, 2019
Messages
548
Location
Niceville, Florida
I use the Tamco Chassis black epoxy for all bare metal and then the epoxy high build primer and then there single stage urethane top coat. I really like there products and the customer service is excellent.
 

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