What have you been doing with your Toyota? (2 Viewers)

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Got a few more big ones checked off the list for Moab… installed a new OEM radiator, new heater T’s and new upper and lower radiator hoses and clamps.

The Heater T’s we’re weeping…
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They crumbled as I started working on them.
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This is all I could see leaking on the radiator…
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How about this for a mess! I couldn’t believe I was still cooling, I’d bet 40% was caked with mud and dirt. Sheesh…

You can see the cracked are at the top (dark spot).
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finally got the skid plates off (had to cut bolt heads off to remove the plates) after a decade + of abuse, mostly from the Wild Bill trail. Currently at the machine shop getting pressed back to flat and reinforced.

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It is crazy how time flies, as I meant to share this a while back...
Earlier this year I discovered I had a leaking front passenger shock. It was about 6 weeks before my big snowboard/ski trip with the wife and friends. The good news was that I got it fixed in time and the shock was covered under warranty. So at this time, I was poking around the internet, and stumbled across this video I though was worth sharing (For those with IFS ;)).

I enjoy his other content too, so I highly recommend seeing what else he has posted!

I think he does a great job breaking things down and really showing the system as a whole. I took some of his insights and made some minor tweaks to my IFS. I still had my old Bilstein 5100s, and I did a comparison of travel against my newer Falcons. While my efforts were crude and I had the coil removed, I did observe slightly more travel at the wheel with the Billies. Around 3/8" - 1/4". But I still decided to keep running my newer and larger diameter Falcon Shocks. I am also now running at the lowest shock ride height setting with a 1/2" spacer above the top mount. This appears to achieve a good balance in ride height, clearances, and travel (I am touching the bump stop still in my mock travel test).
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Anyway, the trip was a blast, and now over 5 weeks ago. I was in Colorado and Utah, so it only made sense that I make a 48 hour pit stop in Moab :cool:👍. It was just my wife and I, so I didn't do anything too crazy but felt like I put the new minor changes to a good test. passed with flying colors.
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Chris, Welcome back!
Kai is the Man! I've been binge watching his series on YouTube. Dealing with cab mount clearance issues right now with my 33" Yoko MT's.
 
Glad to hear other's are leveraging his videos as well! haha. I can't remember, have you already made some clearance with the cab mount and still having issues? I would like to believe the fact that you are running skinnies that you shouldn't be rubbing a lot.
 
Glad to hear other's are leveraging his videos as well! haha. I can't remember, have you already made some clearance with the cab mount and still having issues? I would like to believe the fact that you are running skinnies that you shouldn't be rubbing a lot.
I am going to add preload to my coilovers. If I understand Kai's video correctly, doing so (increasing lift) will push the tire forward in the wheel well. I have plenty of space in the front wheel well, it rubs in the rear. I currently have 1.25" of preload on my ICON extended travel coilovers (factory setting is low). I can go up to 2.13" according to the manual. If that doesn't work, I am going to look at buying new wheels with 0 offset. The stock have -25 offset. Lastly, I'm going back the alignment shop on Thursday to make some final tweaks. I don't think that they exploited the caster as much as they could have with my high caster UCA. All this before I leave next Saturday. Last minute is how I roll!

I also got new bump stops from Archive Garage and wheelers (front).
 
I am going to add preload to my coilovers. If I understand Kai's video correctly, doing so (increasing lift) will push the tire forward in the wheel well. I have plenty of space in the front wheel well, it rubs in the rear. I currently have 1.25" of preload on my ICON extended travel coilovers (factory setting is low). I can go up to 2.13" according to the manual. If that doesn't work, I am going to look at buying new wheels with 0 offset. The stock have -25 offset. Lastly, I'm going back the alignment shop on Thursday to make some final tweaks. I don't think that they exploited the caster as much as they could have with my high caster UCA. All this before I leave next Saturday. Last minute is how I roll!

I also got new bump stops from Archive Garage and wheelers (front).
Based on my understanding, if you just change the preload (the shock notch for the coil lower seat), you will mostly change the ride height (the resting/equilibrium point) only. Yet the overall travel is still there. That the rub should occur at the top of the travel, and it is your bump stop that should be mostly controlling that point. I would believe playing with your control arms with alignment will have a greater impact. Plus, as Kai demonstrates, you will likely lose down travel by increasing lift while also potentially reducing overall effective travel/flex/traction...so many variables...

But I say all of this with caution, as there are many assumptions with this. And I am sure there are others with far more experience then I.

And I know exactly how that is, with making changes last minute...my wife gives me a hard time far too often about it.
 
Based on my understanding, if you just change the preload (the shock notch for the coil lower seat), you will mostly change the ride height (the resting/equilibrium point) only. Yet the overall travel is still there. That the rub should occur at the top of the travel, and it is your bump stop that should be mostly controlling that point. I would believe playing with your control arms with alignment will have a greater impact. Plus, as Kai demonstrates, you will likely lose down travel by increasing lift while also potentially reducing overall effective travel/flex/traction...so many variables...

But I say all of this with caution, as there are many assumptions with this. And I am sure there are others with far more experience then I.

And I know exactly how that is, with making changes last minute...my wife gives me a hard time far too often about it.
Thanks for the background. I think I am going to add about .5" to the preload coilover. The suspension didn't have the load it has now (A steel bumper, rock sliders, armor, etc.) from when I first installed it. So I think it is reasonable to try to raise it a small amount from the ICON factory specs of 1.25" to compensate for this additional weight. It shouldn't impact droop/down travel too much. I'm not having problems with the bump stops, just the cab mount. I just wanted the bump stops for Moab. :)
 
I need to re-learn how to weld 😞...but at least my hammering skills are still sharp...or bunt...something like that.
 
Thanks for the background. I think I am going to add about .5" to the preload coilover. The suspension didn't have the load it has now (A steel bumper, rock sliders, armor, etc.) from when I first installed it. So I think it is reasonable to try to raise it a small amount from the ICON factory specs of 1.25" to compensate for this additional weight. It shouldn't impact droop/down travel too much. I'm not having problems with the bump stops, just the cab mount. I just wanted the bump stops for Moab. :)
Good point on the added weight. That will make a difference and I wasn't accounting for that.
 
Got the first two ready to ship. Only 5 left to run through and get lined out. Its always hard the first time I send a rig. Have a beautiful silver rig with only a couple dents and scratches. Soon to be fully striped.
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Last big item before Moab and the Kokopelli trail. I am required to bring extra 5 gallons of gas for the Kokopelli, this was nice to get done. I made it removable for when I don’t need it. The 100 has 24 gallons already.

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A few more final touches before Moab.
Tackling the @ARCHIVE Garage flip kit with bump stop and @ragofabrication shock guards this morning.
Be sure to wrap your shock boot up in something when you are using the cutoff wheel to cut down the u-bolts lest you want to melt them. I used Reflectix I had laying around. Also protect the bump stop with something or the hot shards of molten metal will destroy them. And you might want to wrap the gas tank too like I did. You don't want to damage the gas tank or blow yourself up.
The @archive garage u-bolt flip kit was pretty easy to install if you take the tires off.
The @RagoFabrication guards are beefy. They come with 2 massive bolts for each side. They have a slot in the bottom so that you can wedge a screwdriver under the shock and leverage it to get the bolt through. Wish I had known that earlier. The YouTube video doesn't show that slot.

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Rubbing no more!
So I went back to the alignment shop today and the tech increased my caster still within spec and I have zero rubbing now. He said he was surprised how much the ICON UCA's allowed him to move the tire forward.
Specifically, the tire is now properly centered. In the neutral position (straight forward) I have about 2" up front and in back.
When I turn the wheel, where it was rubbing before I now have about 1" of clearance.
No rubbing up front or the rear. And when compressed (like going over a bump), I haven't heard the tire well rub either.
I believe the combo of adding 1/2" of preload (raising the ICON coilovers) to 1.75" and increasing the caster during the alignment fixed my issue.
In case you missed it... I am running 33.5" Toyo MT's 255/85-16 (Pizza cutters) on stock wheels.

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I was looking over a fully restored 40 online last night for research purposes and realized I had my under the seat floor mats installed backwards. So pulled the seats and got installed correctly :). Big thanks to @3_puppies for sourcing them, I just don’t see them very often anymore. Anyway, they’re on correctly now and look much better!

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