what gear do you use when winching?

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i have never owned a winch.
i have no experience whatsoever with winches.
i would eventually like to have a winch...

If you own a 5 speed, and you are winching without moving (stopped/parked), would you park it in reverse, or 1st gear?

what would cause more/less damage to transaxle (original reason for wondering about this...)?

how about an automatic? would park be the best setting for non-moving winch recoveries?

anyone have stories about a winching gone bad, because of what gear the truck transmission was in?
 
Hi All:

Ah, you've opened-up a bit of a "can o' worms!" :D

First off, the winch needs to be bolted to a *solid* mount, not one of those cheesy stamped steel brushguard mounts! :rolleyes:

Gear-wise, to go along with your new winch you will want to put together a recovery kit with:

a pair of leather gloves;

a tree-saver strap;

a "D" ring shackle;

a snatch block (aka pulley block.)

You should also spend some time reading-up on proper and safe use of a vehicle recovery winch. :doh: :)

If your rig is truly stuck, then leave it running (to keep the alternator charging the battery) but in neutral to allow the winch the minimum resistance to moving the vehicle.

Regards,

Alan
 
yes, I understand the basic concepts...

what gear should my vehicle be in when winching someone else out of a stuck?

to clarify the original post...I am wondering what gear I should select, if I am winching someone else out of a predicament, and my vehicle is not moving.
 
I'm running a 12K hydraulic mile marker and if I'm pulling something else out, the truck is idling, tranny in neutral (5spd), parking brakes on, and brakes on. If it's a real heavy load (single or double line), I strap my back end to something solid (another truck (or two), a tree, a boulder....) in-line, block my front tires, AND stand on the brakes. Have toyed with the idea of fitting line locks on the brakes, would make things easier (but then you are depending on something small and mechanical to keep you from moving....).
 
roalco- thanks, I wasn't even thinking straight...the vehicle will be on, in neutral. i guess i was thinking i would be out of the vehicle with it turned off...DUH!!!

do you notice much resistance to the tugging of the winch, if you winch without the front wheels chocked? i was thinking that chocking would be necessary everytime...
 
roalco- thanks, I wasn't even thinking straight...the vehicle will be on, in neutral. i guess i was thinking i would be out of the vehicle with it turned off...DUH!!!

do you notice much resistance to the tugging of the winch, if you winch without the front wheels chocked? i was thinking that chocking would be necessary everytime...
I stay in the truck and keep the brake nailed to the floor. Depending on the situation, winching a much heavier vehicle or winching a disabled rig over obstacles for example, I might find a big rock to park the front tires against.

The truck being winched should be in a gear that will allow it to match the winch speed as close as possible. This include using your winch for self recovery.

BTW compare the output of your alternator to the current requirement of your winch, in most cases the alternator won't even begin to keep up with the winch requirements. That's when a high capacity battery comes into play.
 
rusty-tlc- thanks for the comments...i am only dreaming of having a winch so far...

are you saying that the stuck vehicle should be left in gear, even if not running, to keep the rig from "getting away"?

dully noted on power requirements...i am either dreaming of double (or triple) battery set-up, or possible dual alt./battery setup, and/or mean green high output alternator.

ever heard of high output alternators frying other electronics, when the winch is not in use?
 
rusty-tlc- thanks for the comments...i am only dreaming of having a winch so far...

are you saying that the stuck vehicle should be left in gear, even if not running, to keep the rig from "getting away"?

dully noted on power requirements...i am either dreaming of double (or triple) battery set-up, or possible dual alt./battery setup, and/or mean green high output alternator.

ever heard of high output alternators frying other electronics, when the winch is not in use?
No, if the truck is disabled it should be left out of gear. If the truck is functional, and it can be done safely, someone should be in the vehicle being recovered to help by driving. What I was saying is the vehicle should be in a gear which will allow it to match speed with the winch and help the recovery effort.
 
roalco- thanks, I wasn't even thinking straight...the vehicle will be on, in neutral. i guess i was thinking i would be out of the vehicle with it turned off...DUH!!!

do you notice much resistance to the tugging of the winch, if you winch without the front wheels chocked? i was thinking that chocking would be necessary everytime...

I agree with Rusty, if it looks like an easy pull, try it standing on the brakes, then go to chocks or a rear anchor (tree, truck, whatever you can rig) on the rescue vehicle. If you aren't totally secure, you are just going to be pulled up to the stuck vehicle.... then things start to get really fun:whoops:.
 
A few years ago I watched a J##P winch another out of a mud hole. The winching truck was off and was in gear..... the force pulled the front end down into the ground, and forward, and snapped a front U joint... He had already fubar'd his rear shaft, so he got drug home I guess...

If you are recovering another vehicle, your truck should not be in gear, as said above, stand on the brakes, park against a rock, or strap your truck to something if it's that bad. The stuck vehicle should be trying to drive out if it can and it's safe for someone to be in the truck.
 
75' of 3/8th cable is standard in the back of the vehicle , i have another length of it if i think i will need it aswell .

25' chain with two grab hooks or one end with a grab and one slip , 3/8th . i have a 1/2" one but i only need it if i was pulling out a skidder .

2 crosby 1" shackles (overkill, but were free)
1 5/8th crosby shackle .

25' pull strap with chain ends , grab hooks . 3/8th .

military fold able shovel , chain saw , brush saw , fireman axe , jackall , winch , controls on the dash and a working remote , 3" ratchet strap , tool kit .

probably more crap , i need a snatch block .i use my pull strap as a tree saver , i just basket the tree and hook it to the winch .
 
75' of 3/8th cable is standard in the back of the vehicle , i have another length of it if i think i will need it aswell .

25' chain with two grab hooks or one end with a grab and one slip , 3/8th . i have a 1/2" one but i only need it if i was pulling out a skidder .

2 crosby 1" shackles (overkill, but were free)
1 5/8th crosby shackle .

25' pull strap with chain ends , grab hooks . 3/8th .

military fold able shovel , chain saw , brush saw , fireman axe , jackall , winch , controls on the dash and a working remote , 3" ratchet strap , tool kit .

probably more crap , i need a snatch block .i use my pull strap as a tree saver , i just basket the tree and hook it to the winch .
He was talking about the transmission gear, not rigging gear.
 
i have never owned a winch.
i have no experience whatsoever with winches.
i would eventually like to have a winch............

A lot of helpful info so far, but no one has mentioned safety. You can't be too safe when winching.

yes, I understand the basic concepts..............
roalco- thanks, I wasn't even thinking straight...the vehicle will be on, in neutral. i guess i was thinking i would be out of the vehicle with it turned off...DUH!!!...
rusty-tlc- thanks for the comments...i am only dreaming of having a winch so far......

You're getting a lot of good info, from this forum for your questions, but I would suggest that before you put any of it to use, go out with an experienced group on some runs and get some hands on experience. With the forces involved in winching, a mistake or accident can be life changing or life ending. Please take these suggestions in the way they are intended: as caution to a novice. Every winching or extraction situation is different. We are all learning and proper attitude is extremely important. Complex pulls are best discussed first, so everyone involved is "on the same page". Alert, intelligent, and experienced winch operators learn something new, each and every time. Remember, Saftey First. As you become a winch owner and operator, you are responsible for everyone near your vehicle - even spectators - during a winching operation. Respect nature, property and the forces involved, and may all your pulls be successful!
 
thanks for all the great replies!

good info for someone who does not have a winch, avoids deep mud like the plauge, and has never (yet) had to winch someone out or be winched out...

2ndgentoyfan: thanks for this! i was hoping to learn what to do, by learning what not to do, first. this proves what not to do!

80toylc: am i seeing things, or is you avatar a pic of South Six Shooter Peak in Indian Creek, Utah????
 
I hate chains..
 
Ever see one break?
 
Ever see one break?
Chain are a poor choice for winching. They can break and store energy. Our group will not allow them.

I stay in the vehicle 90% of the time. My Turbo 400 is in neutral and I bury the brakes or put my tires upto a log and bury my breaks.

My winch can draw up to 400 Amps DC. I run two batteries in parallel and let the winch rest if I am pulling hard or a long pull. I let the winch, batteries and alternator do their job, slowly.
 
.......80toylc: am i seeing things, or is you avatar a pic of South Six Shooter Peak in Indian Creek, Utah????
You're in the ballpark. Other side of the river and on a lonely stretch of dirt road between the Flint Trail and where Hwy. 95 crosses Lake Powell. 1st pic is S.Sixhooter Pk. & second is my avatar.
S6shooterpk.webp
102_0263.webp
 
With my BJ 74, I leave her in neutral and pull the hand throttle out to about 1200rpmor higher so I dont fry anything with the amp draw.
 
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